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skiboyny
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Everything posted by skiboyny
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Seems normal to me for that system. I would expect at your weight you would be able to pull the boat down a couple MPH during a pull. The result would be a pretty visual variance in speed. Make sure you use Extra Large setting, and you could try turning up the Kx to increase the response time.
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The used boat market is really hot, seems like you would be able to sell at a great price and buy even an older model with a better slalom wake and not lift a finger. I know you said that's off the table but there will never be a better time to sell than right now! -
I'm real curious did the 67" help this problem? 1" difference
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@alex38 I think there is something going on besides background numbers on the Feather Normal etc. settings. Pretty sure a rep told me that at some point. For example feather and light have exactly the same backgrounds and yet they are different. Normal is pretty darn close as well and yet it's different.
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Transition from Wiley high wrap to hard shell .
skiboyny replied to Marks196's topic in Skis Fins Bindings
The hard shells are way more comfortable offer more lateral support, and say goodbye to cramps at least in your front foot. I changed both rubber, to hardshell and it took a half dozen sets to feel right, but in the end if your feet are bothering you that will end. -
@alex38 abc adjust is for matching your boat "feel" to that of a zero off boat. For instance if your boat in b2 feels more like a a2 on a zero off boat and you want them to match. I personally don't have enough access to a zero off boat on a regular basis to worry about that. Haven't touched it either.
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@alex38 the plus sign is an attempt to emulate the zero off which added plus. The plus added give a bit more aggression to the pull. I've not spent any time with it. The few times I used it I expected the ball times to tighten up but they really seemed to get worse. If you want better ball times adding to the zbox setting will do that. You will also get a stronger pull if that is what you are after.
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I was having trouble with GPS locking in at the beginning of last season. I was going to send the puck in to have it flashed, but never did. It sort of fixed itself haven't had a problem since. Try it again. It had something to do with the satellites.
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I have found it better at the back of the boat than at the pylon. Because the map is virtual other than the gates, I think where it beeps is more about how accurate your course is. The map is perfect and I'm sure most courses are not.
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@alex38 I really haven't found it necessary. The new software is decent. In the earlier software the the boat would slam you at 2 hard than run away in the middle, you really had to do something. The newest version is almost doable out of the box as compared. The tweaks help even it out a bit more, but the new version is skiable where the earlier versions really were not. This is based on my experience with 3 stargazer boats. They all behaved the same before and after, others may have had other experiences. Also as others have mentioned the LIght setting is closer to right out of the box if your in that weight category and skill level.
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@alex38 First off I would see if the new software settles your entrance speed. Looks like it's over throttling at the entrance. I really can't remember the versions of software but I do know they have constantly worked to improve how quickly the boat settles. I would install the new software, install z-box but keep it off while you dial in. Do the baselines over and see where you are. I hate to tell you to make any move based on a different set of circumstances. Post your new numbers and we can work thru them.
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@Bruce_Butterfield All things being equal strength to weight is important for all skiers. Technique can not be underscored. Using your example you gained 15-20 lbs since collage, but as you've aged you've lost up to 20% of muscle mass thru the ageing process. Put those 2 factors together and there is impact that you probably don't realize. You were not only lighter when you got out of college but stronger as well. Thru the years, you no doubt improved your technique, but imagine if you now had the same strength to weight ratio as then. Not saying it's even possible but if it were, I"d be betting on a new PB for you.
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For me the crew weight didn't help, one boat we did with,one without they both turned out the same. If I was to experiment further with it I would do as you said add 600 to do baselines and than take it out. As I said in a past post getting the ball times close, and feathering in the throttle, seemed to produce a better one ball for me. Your pretty close, fine tune over several sessions look for consistent anomalies and slowly improve on them. You will get what you're looking for your not far off now.
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I think your right about lighter being better but maybe not for the fact that your lighter. I think it's a strength to weight ratio. Body fat is non functional. Most people carry much more body fat than they understand. It's very difficult to turn that into muscle especially as we age. A loss of 10lbs will probably result in a small loss of muscle but most will be non functional body fat. You can easily increase your strength to weight ratio by losing weight and that seems to pay big dividends in skiing.
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A couple of questions to keep you from chasing your tail. When you do the auto calibrate, have you been able to do it on real smooth water with little wind? Do you try lowering your crew weight if the 0 ball is fast? You could calibrate with a bigger crew weight to give you a bit more adjustment. First of all your 1-2 ball times don't really look that bad, .001,.002 is really a pretty good story, I'd move on to 3 than final and see how close you come. Your background setting for one ball is higher than I've ever seen, that doesn't mean it's wrong but I gets me to wonder about the baselines. At some point you have to stick if baselines were calibrated in dead calm water with no wind I'd call that a wrap. If you have the new software (I can't remember if you do) the autocalibrate is quite good but it will change according to conditions. Your description of what it does at the pre-gate is on the money. With a short setup, you can help by feathering into the set speed and not counting on the system to shut it down. (this takes time) It's a technique that I got in the habit of doing because of the older software. The new software is so much better, but still the throttle control helps. There is a lot about this system that is predictive, to try and make up for the slower correction rate of the system. That said I really think you end up looking at the adjustments as a whole, realizing that there are several combinations to get you there and none are perfect. All and all your already improved on your "out of the box" settings and your getting close. So many variables. Within your frame work you should see deviations at times depending on water and skier but you should also see a on the money run here and there. When you get to that point, that's as good as it gets.
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I'd work it one ball at a time. Dial in 2 ball time best you can than move forward. It's going to take a few outings to get it just so, but you don't look to far off. As far as overall time this system seems designed to make overall, dead on in favor of ball time. I don't always get 16.95 but it's never very far off (16.98) at times and well in tolerance. It seems like a worthwhile trade off to me.
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@simskrs it's a really strange system. I found that when I got 2 ball right oddly enough the 1 ball was also improved. The adjustments are not as linear as you might think. Many times you need to take a few runs just to prove you have made a positive change. It can feel like a moving target. I shoot for 1-2 thousandths discrepancies. Sometimes they can be right on the money other times you could see a ball off by a bit more. A lot of it depends on the skier. The biggest fight for me was dispeling the perfect pass manual. The backgrounds simply do not work the way they say and yet they keep saying it. I've also tried to get them to tell me what it is exactly the background settings do. I just never got an explanation worth repeating. And thru all this, they have improved the system, so go figure. Good luck it may not be as "conclusive" as you think it will.
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@nautique1228 I'm not sure I would say it has “more control” it does change the feel as per numbers. I could distinctly feel where the boat picked me up after the ball and where it let me off at the end of the wake. It like zero off has a more aggressive pull in a shorter space than stargazer. It took me a bit of time to get used to it after skiing stargazer for quite a while previous. Much closer to zero off than stargazer.
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Good luck you will see that dropping 1 ball to zero is the wrong direction. I really don’t think that moving the baselines are necessary. You can wear out a lot of skiers with those moves. Took me a whole summer to get our boats right. Guess it’s good experience I think I’d rather spend my time skiing.
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@Wac I can with what little experience I have with the plus settings, that they will show some real crazy ball times, and that's with a pretty darn good tuned system. The newest software is really much improved on settling the boat down quickly. Not sure what version you might have. It also helps if the driver "feathers" the throttle up until you hear the beep and not go to far over.
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They may have changed the ability to find the RPM values in version 9.2. From what I understand they are running out of room so it's possible that's gone. That said the auto cal works real well. I had no problems when I changed to 9.2 it helped settling the boat much quicker, didn't have to be quite as careful to not over throttle at the approach which was a big reason for fast 1 balls. Even though 9.2 got rid of many of the "extremes" it still worked much closer with my original background numbers that were determined on the earlier version.
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@simskrs my suggestion is to calibrate the back ground settings using stargazer. Run smooth easy passes should work out well while you heal. When you get it pretty close than go back to z box. Do 2 ball time first (ball 1 adjust) 4 ball time second (ball 3 adjust) then see where your 1 ball is. It may seem counterintuitive but I’ve had the best luck with that order. It’s important to use a smooth skier. A scrappy run will make it pretty impossible to get it nailed down. Good luck!
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@slmskrs i would suggest to you that you shut Z box off and calibrate stargazer first. Z box will actually tighten the numbers up once stargazer is close. Set baselines with crew weight will give you a bit more adjustment but it probably won’t matter. I usually find that going 2 ball time first is more productive then working on one ball. For your boat the background setting will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 20-30-? The last part of the course is least affected by background so make it last on your to do list. Perfect pass folks are very nice but we’re no help to me. I got my lightbulb moments from @DanE. I can tell you I’ve done 2 boats and they came very nice so it can be done. Good luck hope this helps.
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Your ski might be terrible, and your settings are worse.
skiboyny replied to Horton's topic in Skis Fins Bindings
You have figured out that your very fortunate in the equipment department, but it still hasn't dawned on you what a perfect ski situation you have. It's not easy for everyone to get water time due to a whole variety of situations. It can be tough to verify fin settings let alone conduct that experiment. -
Practice course without the end alignment gates - how big a problem ?
skiboyny replied to swbca's topic in Technique & Theory
I think the pre-gates are really valuable for your timing. It's something that translates to other courses so you timing stays relatively the same. That said, use a course for quite a few years without. Learned to line up left and 3 (or something to that nature) for the pullout.
