skiboyny

It does "help" but if you look at the ball times ball 1 (which is actually ball 2) is usually hot still. Kind of a tough thing for a lff skier.

What happens when you drop the ball 3 background setting further? Maybe 15

Looks like it's time to lower the 3 ball setting a bit.

Have 2 stargazer boats at our lake within the last week they are locking like they used to. Immediately. Something has changed.

@jcamp is it set factory? What boat?

@Windsurfnut thank you.

@colo_skier Thank you I've been through it all with Stargazer. Mine is running real nice. Recently added z-box. I have infrequent exposure to zero off. Want to get z-box as close as I can to the correct "feel" of zero off. Wondering where zbx is set on some of the boats that run nice with z-box. Factory is 8

For those of you who use z-box, wondering if you had to adjust the zbx setting to get it to feel most like zero off. If so what is your setting?

@Than_Bogan Believe what you will.

Looks like Manon is running the GT to me.

@GAJ0004 that’s a good move. I only recently installed and my stargazer was pretty close. I will tell you this z box will tighten up the times the last little bit. My 34 times were 1697 or 1698 most of the time with stargazer add z box 1695 on the money. @Windsurfnut Increasing kx would be a good move for that boat.

The biggest problem is you need a fair bit of money to participate in any fashion. The guy with the most money will likely turn out to be the better skier. I just don't know how you get around that.

Thats real close. Make sure to feather up to speed on the way to the 55s. First I'd go up to 45 on the one ball background. If that doesn't work out, I would try reducing crew weight or skier weight or both. If that's not enough take 10rpm at a time off baselines. I feel like you need to get the boat under control at zero ball and the rest might fall into place. Are you using z-box?

Second screen looks nice. You have to look for common recurrences before deciding to do anything.

@GAJ0004 wow! Does that 45 give you a good 2 ball? Are you sure your baselines are right? What does your overall time look like with those settings? Generally lowering the 3 ball number as you have done will stop the surge.

@BraceMaker I thought that perfect pass sold the rights to the drive by wire to ZO. I didn't know there was a time stipulation based on patents. Do you have more info on this?

I really can’t see perfect pass spending much revamping the system. Remember the boats it services are heading for extinction.

@Windsurfnut that’s a great question. I have not. It’s such a moving target, that’s affected By so many variables. Water conditions, skier style, how early the pass is run to name just a few. You have to remember this is a rpm system that’s designed to over rev. (Rpm is added in anticipation) then adjusted down based on timing with a gps overlay. The calculations are made and the servo has to respond by tightening (less throttle) or letting slack out (more throttle) a lot going on. Ball 1 and ball 3 background adjustments usually require a 5 pt adjustment to get any meaningful results. The final segment will work a 1 pt. At a time adjustment. You will never get it dead on each in every pass. As long as the ball times stay within a thousandth or 2 most of the time(on a reasonably smooth pass) it will feel right and run times well in tolerance. Look at ball times every pass make a change only when you see a constant pattern with a ball time. Took me most of a summer to figure it out.

If it performs it will sell. There seems no shortage of money in this sport. Addicts always find a way.

We have done it to ourselves.

@GAJ0004 it makes sense to try 20 at ball 1 background if 2 ball time shows a +.02 or greater. The unit will show off ball times at all line lengths if it’s not working right. If you show a ball time screen shot I’d be glad to make a recommendation but as I said it’s best to hammer away 1 ball at a time till it’s right. Start with ball 2. 20 15 20 is a good place to start because the surge will be gone.

@Skierx It look great on videos no doubt. @horton I think I define fast, as how much effort it takes to make the speed, and you have answered that. As I said I prefer a deeper riding ski but it does seem to take a lot of physical effort to make speed. Higher riding skis are "faster" because they take less physical effort to make the speed. They also tend to be a bit more "nervous" and perhaps less stable. In my limited experience anyway. Trade offs always.

@GAJ0004 It seems like your guessing? Work on one ball at a time to get it right. Always referring to the ball times. Get 2 ball dead on with the 1 Ball adjust than move to 4 ball with the 3 ball adjust. If for example 2 ball shows +3 thousandths you know that you have to raise the 1 Ball setting until it's zero. The whole process will take some time and you can't ski enough to get it right in one session. The prevalent thing about stargazer, at least in my experiences, is there is a speed increase at 2 ball, than the thing runs away. What you have now is at least skiable without the run away.

@horton thanks for the response. It seems that the deeper riding skis are the most stable, maybe predictable, at the expense of speed, and take extra work. I seem to prefer them, but I think the next real breakthrough in skis will be when someone someone develops one that breaks that trend. Maybe asking too much...

@Horton would you call it a fast ski? Does it ride deep in the water or on top? What amount of effort does it take to ski it?

You need to continue raising ball one. Your close on 3 ball time. You get your ball times right your overall will be right. Also make sure your baselines and typical crew weight is right. Adding Crew weight or skier weight adds RPM. The whole process can be counter intuitive to say the least. Ball times are the most important to getting the thing to feel right. Feather setting is always a bit better out of the box But there is still a hit at 2 ball look at the ball times and you will see it. It's dangerous really.