ThePantsManCan

I'll get the new boat by way of partial cash and partial financing. Then I will sell the Ol' Comp and put that money towards that Hawaii Vacation my Wife wants for the 10 year Anniversary!

I've got a line on a 1997 Ski Nautique with the GT40 EFI Motor. I'll have to finance, but I'll get the job done. The suggestions on this thread have really helped me. Everyone here has helped me stop, look at the amount of time I would have in the project, and realize that if I just work at my job that much harder, I will have what I want without crouching down in a cramped position for a few weeks replacing parts. My career thanks you!

You guys are right. Ive already wasted a bunch of time this morning looking up repair strategies. I'm a sales rep and the more I work the more money I make. Time to shelve this project and go make a ton of coin. All your suggestions have been awesome. I'm still not sure which direction I will be forced to go. Now I'm just perplexed at a Higher Level! Thanks Fellas!

Maybe I should borrow a fist full of cash and grab this: http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?topic=Search&category=Comp_Boat&postid=26106

Ok, so the lightweight battery is out. I'd love to bolt on some more power with the aluminum heads. But then what fits what fits what?? And if I add aluminum to the motor, how worried do I now need to be about electrolysis/corrosion? How do I add a sacrificial anode? Would I really need to worry much in PA with clean fresh water?

The are other forums besides BOS?

@Wish @Waternut, Wow! So the wake behind my boat could be on par with a 97 Nautique? I guess I could have realized that seeing as how drastic the wake change was when I removed weight, but I've never skied behind a late 90's Nautique. I will make sure to get into the floor as soon as possible. Yes there are some rotten spots, I found them after I removed the rear seat. I sure do have a job ahead of me. The foam HAS to be soaked. I'll be honest though, should I somehow make a bunch of money, new(used) boat here we come!

@phil2360, I have played with the wakeplate that comes standard on these boats. No need to add hook as far as I an see because of this feature. What I do plan on doing, if I keep the boat, is to add a hinge and Lenco Trim Tab Actuators. I would LOVE to be able adjust n the fly. @ShaneH, I agree with your comment, although, I may still pursue my project just the same. The reason for this is that I have seen the increase in my performance when we were running without a third person in the boat and AFTER we took out the rear seat. After that, the 22 off wake is like long line and 28 off is like the 15 off wake when we remove all that weight. I would love to have that same performance level while still having the legally required third person/observer. So, that being said, I do want be sure to respect all suggestions offered to me, but the reason for this project is to improve as a skier, no to own a newer badder boat. Please keep the recommendations coming! All that said, I did actually find a set of exhaust manifolds that are used, but yes there are certainly NO new ones I can get my hands on. Any suggestions on stock replacement Aluminum Heads?

I've taken a fair bit of time this winter to contemplate the Pros and Cons of either buying a new (used) boat with Perfect Pass Stargazer, or taking weight out of my 86 Supra Comp TS6m and adding the speed control. I've decided, that I won't make enough money between now and April to acquire a new boat, and I know that I want the Speed control to be installed in my existing boat long before the start of my season. I dont want to start another season without a speed control as standard and hand driving is over for me. Also, If I take out weight, I already know how greatly it affects my slalom wake, it's VERY POSITIVE I can tell you that! So here is my hang up. I've read about some folks replacing parts on the engine to reduce weight and have put together a list of changes I will consider making. Here goes: First Consider that this is a stock Ford 351W Replace Exhaust Manifolds with Aluminum Manifold (this has been HARD to find!) any insight here? Replace Intake Manifold with Aluminum Intake Replace Heads with Aluminum Heads (maybe) It seems the engine mods would be easier to do if it was a Small Block Chevy... Boat Mods: (I Already pulled the rear seat) Some flooring needs to be replaced (I will replace with lightweight composite flooring if not too expensive) Replace the trunk Lid with Something lighter Lightweight Battery? Does that exist? Move Gas Tank Forward? Mount a fuel Cell up Front? I get that this will be a bunch of money anyway, I'm guessing in the 4k range... But I can live with that. Regardless, it will not be anywhere near 12-18k for a used boat. Suggestings? @DW, @Jody Seal

Holy. Cow. I'm calling Monday. I'm even gonna set my alarm. Sheesh, I am a gear nerd! Love it!

Thanks folks! sold!

I am running two auctions. If somebody buys the Boot System first, I'll throw in the adapter plate and hardware as well. But only for a BOS member, and you'll have to let me know you want the plate though, so send me a message! Thanks!

Hey folks, if you need/want some really cheap EXO Boots and the Adator Plate kit... Have a look! Thanks! http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-EXO-Waterski-Boots-size-10-Water-ski-bindings-/261359724611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cda40e843 http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-EXO-ADAPTOR-comes-with-front-toe-and-rear-release-/261359706950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cda40a346

Has anyone ridden the S2 and the versions of the Prophecy with speed steps side by side? Which ski design seemed easier on the body? I know Horton has, but his ski tests were quite far apart I'm sure.

I like that Idea. I don't want to change the bevels. But adding the step right across and over the edge intrigues me. Plus, I can always take that material away if I don't like the effect. Also, as Adam Cord was saying to do, I took a look at a step hull design for boats. The studies found that if you bury a step completely in water, it will not be able to draw air into the step, creating sudden suction. If I build the steps proud of the bevel slightly, perhaps I can negate that effect.

@lpskier, BAAAAAAAHHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAA!!!

I've often thought about whether this is even possible? Lots of ducking I guess? Should up some handle guard sales thats for sure!

I figured that if I kept the steps small/short, as in no higher than a 16th or so, and always tapered the step down to the original ski surface, I would only change the concave a little bit. That's my plan. Each step will end at the original surface, where another step will begin. Perhaps I should have a look at a shark's gill...

@eleeski, I will take that into consideration. If it is easy enough to work with or at least as easy as bondo, then I can get some and to a small test on a busted ski first. I took @AdamCord's advice and studied a little about stepped hulls. Of course, now my little project will become infinitely more complicated. I remembered a while back, I read an article about the lift generated by the leading edge of a whale's fin/flipper. The leading edge is not straight but serated. The bumps on a whale's fin are called Tubercles. I might turn the "Speed Steps" around and make them bumps. Serated bumps that step in the opposite direction than the steps on an HO S2 or Connelly Prophecy.

Good point. Then again, if I had your skills, who would need free skis? I really appreciate your recommendations.

Ouch, where's the love, ya Kno?

Sweet! @AdamCord @ShaneH, I have plenty of experience with Bondo! If the master shapers are using bondo for prototyping, then I'm sure it will be good enough for me. I just thought the ski crafters would have some secret recipe they often used to make adjustments. Look forward to some pictures of my progress throughout this winter!! Thanks guys! PS @AdamCord, got any 67.5 Quattro skis lying around???

Presuming that the bondo product wouldn't take a lot of flex cycles??? I dunno.

@Horton, I sure could use bondo. Maybe that "Bondo Hair" product with the short fibers. I just want the final product to last more than a few sets. I guess that is why I am leaning towards a two part plastic material that is more similar to the actual ski.

So, I've got the time this winter to do pointless things to old gear. I sure do like the speed steps of my S2. I'm gonna add the steps to the A1 regardless of any suggestion to the contrary. I'm sure it won't ruin the ski. Now my trouble is... What epoxy/resin/hardener should I use? What sticks best to a properly prepped ski bottom. The material to be used need not be clear as I plan on coating the final product in the Goode SEM Bumper Black. Suggestions?