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Broussard
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  • Baller

If you want it on your ski, it has an adhesive that attaches it there. Just be sure you have floatation attached to the back of your camera case in case of a release.

 

If you want it on your head, use the head strap. Be sure to add a floatation (somewhere) on the headstrap (like a key float). I would also recommend adding a neoprene chin strap for better stability. Also, it is good to adjust the GoPro to about a 45 degree angle, so you can see the water ahead of you (only a little "sky"), and the rest is your body. It is a waste of good camera angle to view too much sky ahead.

 

There are many other ways to use it, these are just a few.

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  • Baller

Yes, the surf mount is solid for mounting on a ski, but it just means that the tabs on the bottom of the camera housing become the weak link - I had a camera break at these tabs and fly right off of the ski on the very first pull (the impact of the ski hitting the wake caused the housing to break off at the tabs).I now use chest mount over ski vest and I have a hockey helmet with a mount on it as well.

 

 

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  • Baller
So the surf mount will work on a slalom? I want to avoid the adhesive if I can, as I have heard once they are on they are there for good. Will it hold up to a whole set? I had mine fly off after 3 buoys last year when I came up with my own mount…you can tell how poorly it worked.
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  • Baller

I've had a GoPro on my ski tip for a long time. I heated a regular flat mount before applying it to a clean ski, and the mount has never budged. I've broken four buckles (the "neck" between the mount and the camera case), donating one camera to the carp before getting the orange floaty backdoor and a tether for the next camera, but the regular flat mount's adhesive has proven strong enough to make the surf mount unnecessarily.

 

I also use a second flat mount with a small hole drilled in its side to run the tether through. It has kept the camera with the ski after buckle failures, but the camera can beat itself, and your ski, to death until you stop, so stop immediately (not good for tournaments). The GoPro tethers are really strong, and I've never had one break.

 

The wake at 22 off is too much for the buckles, but you can ski 28 off and shorter for months between buckle failures. It changes the balance of your ski a bit, but I got used to that in a set. Set the camera for 960-30 resolution so you can see from your head to where the water is breaking on your ski. It's just about the best, most consistent, visual feedback you can get on your skiing.

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  • Baller

SkiJay is correct- the surf mount works, but is overkill because even the regular adhesive mount will hold (and the surf mount requires a larger flat surface). Also, what he calls "buckles" I call "tabs", but it is the same thing....and is the weak link when you hit the wake...picture of my mount with pieces of broken housing still screwed in- the camera is at the bottom of the lake in this pic, so be sure to tether and/or use floatation- my tether broke, but it could have been a lot better as it was tied in a knot that pulled out.

 

 

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  • Baller

 

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Mount%20%26%20Tether%20Anchor.JPG

This is a regular flat mount and the tether anchor from the surf kit.

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Tether%20Hole.JPG

This shows a flat mount drilled so it can act as the tether anchor on my daughter's ski.

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Buckle.JPG

These buckles are the weak link. They break. So don't put the tethor around the buckle. Put it through the camera case's hinge.

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Buckle%20Orientation.JPG

Make sure the GoPro logo faces your bindings or you won't be able to angle the camera high enough. Also be sure to use the white vibration plug. It reduces vibration significantly and secures the buckle in the mount.

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Anchor.JPG

The camera including floaty back door can be looped through the tether and tether anchor for easy installation and removal from the ski.

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Side%20View.JPG

The finished setup. Use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten the thumb screw. You can't get it tight enough to stay pointed where you want by tightening it by hand. Ideally, the whole thing would be mounted 2" - 3" further back on the ski, but the Elite has an even more rounded top profile the further back you go. All the same, my flat mount has stayed put despite not being on a perfectly flat surface.

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Hard%20Edge%202.JPG

Use a resolution of 960-30 if you want to see as much of what you are doing as possible and 960-48 if you want better slow motion. If you use 1080, you'll have to decide what you don't want to see because you will have to cut off either your arms and head, or where the water is breaking on your ski. 960 gives you both.

 

You are going to see shots you've never seen before.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1530989/Waterskiing/GoPro%20Mount/Tunnel.JPG

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  • Baller
Thanks. Is the tether to the ski just a back up to the float? I had mine come off several times last year with a float tethered to the camera case's hinge, and I kind of liked that it wasn't stuck beating against the ski once it poppped off. I guess you always run the risk that the float will come off somehow. Any thoughts on whether a good float by itself would be sufficient?
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  • Baller
I don't think you need the tether if you have the floaty back door. It floats orange side up, and you definitely notice it leaving the ski in your peripheral vision so the likelihood of finding it is high. I personally leave the tether on, and when a buckle breaks, always at the wakes, I stop skiing before rounding the next ball. That seems to avoid most of the potential thrashing and I haven't found any sign of actual damage either on the ski or camera housing so far.
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  • Baller
we used the seatpost mount and put some extra rope in it as well, it's a little tricky and the camera tends to slide a bit. I will try to post a photo of it later but we dont have a handle set up like that right now
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