Baller Gloersen Posted January 28, 2013 Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Chef23 Posted January 28, 2013 Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 If I did that the boat would never run again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Wish Posted January 28, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted January 28, 2013 Only somewhat machanical here so I'll bite. What the hell did you do to that motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ScaredOfCorbets Posted January 28, 2013 Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 head / valve job? No ring / bottom end work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h2odawg79 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 #4 or #5 exaust valve is suspect. How was the plug and/or compression on that Cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted January 28, 2013 Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 @ScaredOfCorbets Are you asking to choose between "head / valve job"? Hmmmmm..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted January 28, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 @h2odawg79, concur definitely burnt #4, #5, & #1 not looking great. Didn't check compression, symptoms clearly were evident for burnt valves. The heads are off to the engine machine shop. @ScaredOfCorbets, top end work only & hope for the best, 1600 hours. @Wish, rejuvenation time. The '03 SN 196 had been sitting neglected due to its lack of ZO and having access to the club '09. Hopefully a ZO upgrade if I can find the parts for both ZO and the conversion components to E-Controls DBW. It will be great to get behind that TSC2 wake again. Guessing 6-8 hrs to reassemble, then 6 hours to drive it west to Santa Rosa and have an expert redo-it get it running if I don't get lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ RichardDoane Posted January 28, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted January 28, 2013 @gloersen - make sure it's all new valves when those heads go back together, no re-grinding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller dave2ball Posted January 28, 2013 Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 Looks like 1 800 Jody seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h2odawg79 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I'd go all new lifters and valve guides as well. Seems like a no Brainer, but many will choose to knurl and save a couple more bucks putting the same lifters back in... Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller SkiJay Posted January 28, 2013 Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 Ah yes, the inner workings of my favorite wind instrument. I'm going to miss the rich music of the double-base V8 when we all end up whirring around with electric motors. Sigh..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted January 28, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted January 28, 2013 @richarddoane, @h2odawg79; definitely. @dave2ball; probably. @skijay; concur. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted February 8, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted February 8, 2013 New heads installed. Anyone know a neat trick to re-installing the "distributor" shaft with regard to alignment landmarks at #1 TDC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ScaredOfCorbets Posted February 8, 2013 Baller Share Posted February 8, 2013 Are you saying that you did not make any mark on the distributor shaft in relation to the block (and rotor position)? If that's the case, then you need to rotate the crank until it's at #1 TDC, then drop the distributor with the 'rotor' lining up to # 1 plug wire. Should be close enough for it to fire up. Once running, using a timing gun to make final adjust. That what I would do. Others may have other suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MattP Posted February 8, 2013 Baller Share Posted February 8, 2013 @Jody_Seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted February 8, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted February 8, 2013 @ScaredOfCorbets, thanks for suggestion. it was marked crudely & probably off a tooth or two. Just downloaded a PCM manual & can muddle through this. Final adjust on cam retard with Diacom/laptop when all re-assembled. @MattP - probably, right now it's therapy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ RichardDoane Posted February 9, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted February 9, 2013 @gloerson, it's easy to align the distributor once you're re-assembled. Remove all the spark plugs so the starter will crank the engine very easily. Temporarily install the distributor, then crank the engine for 10 seconds a couple of times to prime the oil pump/system. Put your finger into cylinder #1 spark plug hole and as you crank the engine you'll feel/hear the compression stroke beginning for #1 cylinder. Finish turning the crank by hand and align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer. So now the distributor just needs to be adjusted while the crank stays in this position. Figure out the direction of distributor rotation, and lift and rotate the distributor shaft so the rotor will be pointed to the #1 terminal on the cap, the distributor drive gear can be adjusted by turning/lifting the shaft, once you've got the gear position set, you may have to turn the crank again to get the oil pump drive to align - allowing the distributor to fully drop into place, it's actually pretty easy once you've done it a couple of times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted February 9, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted February 9, 2013 @richarddoane - excellent directions - appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted February 10, 2013 Baller Share Posted February 10, 2013 @Gloersen - Just in case you or anyone else where to need a new distributor, I have one from back in my selling PCM parts days that is still in the shrink wrap. Would sell this very cheap just to get rid of it. Have a few other parts left over as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted February 17, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted February 17, 2013 DBW? Crap load more than just 1 wire for this conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted February 21, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted February 21, 2013 Getting warmer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted March 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted March 14, 2013 Overall the conversion was not that formidable excluding a few blunders that had nothing to do with E-Controls/ZO. Whether the cost is justified can only be judged by the user. Good to have the TSC2 wake again, now with ZO, fwiw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted March 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted March 14, 2013 ZO convert wasn't that hard was it? TSC II and ZO rock! You'll wonder why you waited so long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Wish Posted March 14, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted March 14, 2013 Foot/feet on the dog house drives me nuts!!.....then I saw the big split in the vinyl.. foot not so bad. That is a cool conversion and both cruise systems on the dash look cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted March 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted March 14, 2013 @wish - check the first photo for the back of that drivers seat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Wish Posted March 14, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted March 14, 2013 @BraceMaker some see boats as a tool (@eleeski) to be used without fiddling with keeping them looking nice. No prob with that if it's what they desire. I have to think of resale as you never know what life will send your way. I can keep my vinyl clean so it doesn't do that but just commenting on when someone plops down in the passengers seat and digs their feet into my dog house...the hair on the back of my neck stands up. The boot just stood out. Let me toss my big boot up on the nice coffee table in you living room. I'm polite when I ask them not to. Sorry, off topic. Do wish I had the moxie to attempt mechanical feats such as that. Impressive.!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted March 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted March 14, 2013 full-time onboard video next. cosmetics last; won't gain additional buoys. the '03's 1st year of life took a beating at Swiss; a bit of a utility boat, 650 hrs in one season, but the price was right. the boot on the box is a bit disheveling for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted March 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted March 14, 2013 I like beat boats. Theyre hard to find really. Most are beat by neglect which os worse than use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Jody_Seal Posted March 14, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted March 14, 2013 Gloersen in the video Why are the valves rattling so loud? Hopefully you have a pre oiler and pumped oil up to the top end before starting the engine, did you use new head bolts on those vortec heads? in the video with all that racket it does not sound like it will survive to long! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller gregy Posted March 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted March 14, 2013 @gloersen was that an excalibur engine to start with? What did you have to change to get it to DBW? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted March 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted March 14, 2013 @Jody_Seal New ARP head bolts sequentially torqued to specs (though 70 ft-lbs on the final) primed the lifters by spinning the oil pump with a flat head bit/extension on a power drill prior to installing the distributor shaft. Adjusted the valve lash to zero then a full clock-wise rotation on the rocker arm nuts (by the method depicted in the PCM manual). Then with an oil can lubed the valve stems & rocker arms as much as possible, hand turned the crank with a wrench a few revolutions. The motor fired up on the first crank and that first minute of operation on the youtube video it did sound very rattly, but by minute 3 sounded very smooth. Hand adjusted the timing to idle smoothness and acceleration; it's actually running and sounding as strong as ever. No leaks yet, oil remains clear, CHT's above the plug from 168-176F on all 8 at idle after running passes at full operation. So far, so good, but who knows it could all fall apart or blow-up! Wouldn't recommend that anyone try it, but it's good winter therapy. @gregy, the '03 Excalibur with MEFI and cable throttle had to be converted to E-Controls ECM with DBW, it involves exchanging the wiring harness, new throttle body, mounting a few brackets to accommodate the transposed throttle cable to the potentiometer, the bracket for the ECM, fuse box, etc. Not too difficult if one has decent photos or another DBW Excalibur to examine. After that, the ZO install is easy. Although in good conscience; I'd have to recommend having a professional do the upgrade, especially if no access to another slalom boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller gregy Posted March 15, 2013 Baller Share Posted March 15, 2013 @gloersen So you use the same throttle cable and throttle lever and hook it to the potentiometer mounted next to the throttle body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted March 15, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted March 15, 2013 @Gregy - that is correct. The existing throttle lever assembly & cable are used. The throttle cable is re-routed along the starboard side of the motor, looped behind the new fuse assembly box, then up along the port side to the newly mounted bracket/potentiometer assembly. The DBW portion is really just from the potentiometer to the throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller gregy Posted March 16, 2013 Baller Share Posted March 16, 2013 @gloersen you know my chance what Computer you used, I think I read Mefi4 for these conversions. There's a mefi4, 4a, 4b. Mefi4 is used on all kind of engine conversions in hot rods, sandrails, offshore racing, buggies. I've just been thinking about zero off on my 99 Malibu and I keep hearing that it can't be done without changing the engine. I have a Off Road shop and we do all kinds of engine conversions and so when I hear can't be done, to me it seems like it could. We use 5.3L gms that are dbw and convert them to throttle cable, you have to have a tuning software and change a few things but not to big of deal. So I'm thinking if I had the tuning software for the Mefi I should be able to set up the computer right for drive by wire. I'd have to figure out something for the wiring harness but there are people out there that make Mefi harness and gm has some as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gloersen Posted March 18, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted March 18, 2013 @gregy - whatever ECM E-Controls provided. My knowledge base on this is quite limited. If I understand correctly though, without their ECM it cannot be done. If you can find a way many will be interested in your methodology. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Jody_Seal Posted March 18, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted March 18, 2013 That is the problem with this conversion as it can only be done on specific PCM and Indmar models and it requires the utilization of a E-control ECM. MEFI WILL NOT WORK WITH ZERO OFF! MEFI will not communicate with Zero Off other wise every one would have installed ZO on everything. I am pretty sure I can utilize PCM parts on a few Indmar models and convert them to E-control however it looks to be on paper almost a $4K deal before purchasing the Zero Off. I am not going to invest in the parts to experiment but as I have said in the past on paper it should work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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