Best Downlines for Floating Course

[GK]

What is the best, most simple but accurate downline for a floating course? Is it necessary to have bungees on every buoy, if so why?

[A_B]

We use no stretch nylon. You want all PVC pipes level to maintain accuracy, so all lines are the same length. We use plastic chain link fence connectors because they pull apart if snagged by a handle.

For normal buoys, we used a brick tied on the bottom of the arm. Last year we used Wally buoys and water filled before that, neither required bricks. The only buoys you could use bungees on are the gate buoys. They will rise up and down more vs spread apart. The trick is to get the PVC pipe to float at same level throughout.

[Ed_Obermeier]

Agree that it's very important that all buoy lines remain equal in length. IMO you do need bungee, stretch rubber tubing etc to act as a shock absorber. This allows for less shock being transfered to the buoy arms from the passing boat rocking the balls up and down. The less shock transfered to the course structure (buoy arms and mainline) the better the service life of the structure.

[Wish]

Not sure what "down line" is exactly but my buoys are water filled. I will most likely eliminate my stretch cord to the pipe below on the turn balls as they go bad. No need for stretch cord. The course pipe with a little red brick directly attached is enough to hold the turn balls down perfectly. Very little line tension. I think for us the only reason for stretch cord was due to the excessive amount of weight needed to hold down air filled. There needed to be some give for waves and if a buoy was struck and stretch cord provided that. Now it is no longer the case. All my boat guides for a decade or more have been double stung with white PVC clothing line found at a hardware, or big box stores. Makes sense...made be be outside. There is no stretch to it but it is strung enough. So much so that I've never lost a single guide from it snapping. Changed out my foam guides for air filled and just cause everything was new, I went ahead and changed all the lines to new. But none of the old showed any signs of fatigue. Will replace turn ball stretch cord with the same stuff as the stretch cord fails over time but even that will take forever with water filled buoys and little line tension.

[GK]

That's why I was curious about the bungees, eventually they're all different lengths and your course is all out of whack. Ed, if you feel that some sort of bungee is necessary, what do you suggest using and how long of a piece do you use?

[Ed_Obermeier]

On a permanently installed floater @GK I suggest 3/8" latex rubber stretch tubing. I use a 12" long section at the top end of the buoy line. On the local courses I help maintain we get good service life from this material. We use it to build our permanent course buoy lines and we also will sell it in bulk, but in all honesty Skier to Skier has a bit better price on it than we do. (http://www.skiertoskier.com/contents/en-us/p15.html)

 

I've had customers tell me that in certain conditions they have better luck using 1/2" shock cord (bungee cord) rather than the rubber tubing. IMO either is likely to work equally well.

[behindpropellers]

We went to 3/8 od 1/8 wall surgical tube this year on our public course from the pvc to ball. Our course is public. The amount of balls that we lost went down considerably. Each one was measured out so it all stretches the same.

[A_B]

We have used the same course in our private lake without stretch cords, for over 20 years. Maybe a public course is more demanding of the stretch lines.

[LeonL]

@GK, I use poly line with a #6 bare copper hook to attach the buoy. The hook will straighten out if snagged or hit by a ski.

[Edbrazil]

For sure, on a public lake, you need for buoys to break away one way or the other. Whether run over, grabbed by someone, or just having the line/handle snag them. 1975 Nationals re-visited: they were supposed to put breakaway mason line on, but didn't. Eventually, after a skier fell, the line snagged in an interior gate buoy, pulled it hard, and the 2 x 2 wooden arm broke. Repairs went relatively fast when a bunch of people, including officials, pitched in. Meanwhile, the tournament switched to Tricks and went to another part of the lake where they judged from a bridge.

One of many notable happenings there. Had the weather come in a day earlier, the last day of competition at the site would have been with 18 inch whitecaps combing through.

[skierjp]

I agree with Leon. We use 1/4 poly rope. We fid a eye on each end, I insert one end of the rope through the eye bolt then through the rope in your other hand, pull the slack out then put a piece of #6 copper bent into a S to attach buoy to the rope. It is very important to make all ropes exact, this way you will bè able to see if the PVC is sagging. If for some reason you need to sink the course you just take the buoy off the copper hook and leave the rope on the course.

[behindpropellers]

The long bungees made it almost impossible to run over the ball with a boat. The bouy just moves out of the way. We have everything going through trying to destroy our course. Jetskis, tubes and super wide deck and wakeboard boats.

 

Tim

[boarditup]

I use a loop of 5mm bungee from the local surplus store. The line is 24-inches long, a simple overhand knot in the end. Feed through the buoy loop, over on itself. Knot on the bottom at the hook. Just the right amount of stretch and it is hard to hit with a boat. For waterfilled, 20-inches.

[bbruzzese]

Been using 1/4" flexible rope for years here in VT...super durable and easy to use...we have some sections on their 5th or 6th season. our lake level tends to fluctuate so bungee is a must.

 

www.proflexmfg.com

 

 

 

[Edbrazil]

Much as I like to keep the commerce within the water ski industry, it is hard to pass up a deal like this when you need lightweight poly braided line, 1/4 inch size: http://www.reliableracing.com/detail.cfm?edp=10015337

 

This is from the Hill and Event Supplies in their catalog of snow skiing stuff. The price of $ 31 for a 1,000' spool (plus shipping) seems almost too good to be true. Yes, I have bought this product before at one time. Nowhere near ski line diameter, but plenty good for projects like the one discussed in this thread. And, of course, always have a breakaway feature.