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  • Administrators
  • Baller
Posted

I've been using one of these daily for three months now. It's quality gear and there are no signs of wear or fatigue--at all. It's nicely made, will never slip, and looks real trick. I was on the road when I bought it so I opted to get Micro-just to modify a plate for me. They did a very nice job of it.

 

I bought this system because I just couldn't seem to stand on the sweet spot of the ski I was on by moving the bindings back and forth just one hole. The first day I had it on, it confirmed my suspicion. Since then, I've tested three skis and found it made getting the bindings set a piece of cake. I'll never ski without this kind of adjustability again. ★★★★★

  • Baller
Posted

This is a great product that solved a real problem we were having. It seems like every Reflex plate we have has the holes opened up to get the boot in the right spot and then we would fight the plate slipping forward no matter what I did, including having the rubber under the plate. There simply is no more movement and the binding plate stays where I set it. I also like not having to try and tighten the screws so tight to get the plate to not move that I worry about damaging the inserts. The small adjustments also make it easy to find the sweet spot.

 

I would recommend installing one of these where applicable. For us it's been nice to have one less thing to worry about.

 

 

 

 

Posted

@Horton Your bindings only move 3/8" ??? Wow! Your Strada binding plate must be a lot different than mine. You might want to think about a Sequence plate that give 1/16"......J/K

 

I'm thinking about going with a Reflex this year and I was concerned about the binder sliding on the ski. This product appears to be a great fix to this issue.

 

  • Baller_
Posted
I am looking forward to seeing if I can find a sweeter sweet spot on my N1. Right now I have to settle for my hole spacing on the Approach. When I was getting my ski set up I called Chad S to ask him the latest on binding position and he tells me 28 11/16. I knew right then that I needed a way to get set up so I could make dual lock like moves. This is the ticket.
  • Baller
Posted
there is a really easy solution that is super quick and almost free. just buy some inexpensive male and female velcro with self adhesive back and stick a 2 inch strip in the center of each plate and at the coresponding locations on your ski. then take a dremel tool or chain saw file and slot out between the adjustment holes on your plates until there all slots -so no limited factory adjustment. with only slots you can put your binding plates where ever you want and the velcro keeps it from sliding back and forth -the screws just keep the plates attached. so thats a fifty cents fix and its adjustable almost down to microns.
  • Baller_
Posted
You need to raise your binding height to match the velcro thickness. You would also have to completely remove (6 screws) the binding each time. I am going for the micro.
  • Baller
Posted

@xrated Any skier can ski around the miniscule issues caused by having the bindings out by half a hole. It's just a nice little luxury to not have to. It doesn't matter if you are course skiing or free skiing.

 

The bigger issue is whether or not your technique is consistent enough for this kind of adjustability to be noticeable. If you ski a LOT, then most of your inconsistencies fall within a fairly tight range. Being able to center your bindings accurately in the middle of this range of inconsistencies is helpful. If you only get to ski occasionally, your range of inconsistencies is probably quite wide, and mounting your bindings near the middle of this wider range of inconsistencies can be done with the normal binding plate hole pattern.

  • Baller
Posted
@MS -I guess you havent paid attention to how much your plate flexes and bends during normal use. practically every radar sequence plate i ever see is bent way out of true by at least 3/16 inch or more and inexpensive self adhesive velcro equals less than half that. i am not talking about dual lock here and from experience i know the velcro trick works without any feeling of lift or thickness. if your really worried about that non existent problem just put a whole bunch of little pieces right near the screw holes. $64 to $74 cheaper than this ad on thing and super easy to do with even finer adjustability. for that much money difference i can live with loosening 6 screws now and again.
  • Baller
Posted

The Mikro-just is the way to go to get a secure and repeatable position without having to dink around. I was also on the road when I bought it so I opted to get Micro-just to modify a plate for me. They did a very nice job of it. I ordered a new Reflex plate and had it shipped direct to them and they did the rest! Thanks Mikro!

 

Ya, it costs a bit but the workmanship, service and usability is great! Besides, If I don't spend the money my wife will !

  • Baller
Posted

Mikro-Just is, IMHO, the best option of a number of options for dealing with binding placement. As such, it's worth $75 to me. I pay extra $ for options I don't need but like in cars too.

 

The Velcro fix is a clever solution that works. It's a little less convenient and a lot less money. Still, I've not once wished I hadn't spent $75 on Mikro-Just's elegant little system. Every time I use it, which is a lot during ski testing season, it makes me smile.

  • Baller
Posted
@teamwhatever -i hope it makes lots of money but its definitely a complex and expensive solution to a simple problem. sorry if that fact bothers you.
  • Baller
Posted
I was just starting to come around to the idea that this makes sense. I'm running a Reflex front with HO Animal rear.....then I realized that this won't work on my rear boot....
  • Baller
Posted
I have been running a similar product for almost a year now. It works and it was the only way I could get my bindings to the stock position for my ski.
  • Baller
Posted
My Nano one allowed me to get my R style Reflex rear to the correct measurement, but the front Reflex didn't measure up with standard holes, so the Mikro-just solved that. I like the boot placement and have not experiments further.
  • Administrators
Posted
I have been using tape for the Nano One XT review. Honestly my dislike for tape is fading but my conviction that the Mikro-Just is the right idea is re-enforced. Either way I can make tiny binding adjustments.
  • Elite Skier
Posted

If you want to get your ski dialed in you need to have one of these. We adjust our fin in thousandths, set our wings in half degrees, and then are stuck with our binding settings at either 0.25" or 0.5". I'm telling you there is sometimes a better setting for a particular ski than the choice your binding plate allows. I know it doesn't seem like much, but it can make a huge difference in how your ski reacts. Once mounted to the binding plate skiers are able to make precise adjustments in increments of .05 inches. Thats 5-7 times the adjustments that are on todays standard plates!

 

I think getting the placement of the boots dialed on your ski can be even more important than the fin and wing. Too far forward, and your ski is going to run down course on the on-side. Too far back, and the off-side is sketchy. This little adjuster lets you find that happy place.

  • Baller
Posted
This was my best option for that plate. We only have two of the holes ground out right now because it was all we needed. Seems to be working well so far and she doesn't notice it.
  • Baller_
Posted

@‌Horton Here are stock #s posted by D3. I moved her back for a set but it was cross wind at 25 MPH

 

65" Helix

6.905" tips

2.500"

0.775" needle

0.735" flat

7 degrees

8 degrees

29" Boot

  • Baller
Posted

Great . . . Now I'm addicted!

Having recently changed binding plates for flex reasons, I settled on plates that do not have Mikro-Just installed. I figured I could get close enough with the stock holes—NOT!

 

Having the bindings almost right is making me nuts now. Put me down for another set @OTF.

  • Baller
Posted
I have mine mounted on a reflex carbon plate and it works great. Once I set it, I have not needed to adjust any further. My setting need it because I am in between standard holes in the plate. I had a new plate sent to the Mikro guru's and they installed it perfectly.
  • Baller
Posted
I don't have a Dremel, had one and hated it. I use a 20v drill instead but I typically don't grind aluminum. I true using a dremel sanding bit that didn't do sqaut

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