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Time for a new steering cable?


GAJ0004
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Toward the end of the year I notice my boat's steering was getting stiff in the cold. I now have it in the garage. I greased the rudder and hit helped a bit, but I still notice it sticks in a few places. I replaced one at 900 hours. At the time the boat drove like a dump truck. I have 1800 hours on it now. This one only stiffens up in the cold. When it is warm outside it was not an issue. If I were to venture a guess I am thinking the cable is starting to go. I have never tried replacing one myself. Anyone have any idea on what the lifespan of the steering head would be?
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I've never replaced a helm before nor have I worn one out but they do wear out. I think it's the old Tuesday vs Friday manufacture ordeal, some last longer than others. id say after 900 hours you'll feel a positive difference in a new cable. Grease gets old and caked inside cable so surely cold can effect it. Cables are easy to replace as long as you you have some remote mechanical skills. Fuel tank may need removed. Tie a small diameter rope on the old one prior to pulling it out, don't make the knot too big. Lil KY Lube to pull the new one in and you're good to go. What model boat? My older CC's took about 4 hours, my 93 CC takes l.5.
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I've replaced a couple before, although not on a Nautique (shouldn't be much different). With a little reading (try planetnautique.com), it's not rocket science and can be done by the DIY'er as per @oldjeep 's comment above; however, depending on the layout & accessibility along the cable path, it can be a little awkward and frustrating the first time through.
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Might want to disconnect it from the rudder first to see if it's really the cable or if it's the rudder being difficult. My last Malibu was terrible to steer in the cold, but it was the rudder being tough; the cable moved effortlessly when detached from the rudder.
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When I was younger and broker, I extended the life of my steering cables by forcing ATF down the cable. I made up an adapter from my air compressor to pressurize a hose full of ATF into the cable. I used ATF instead of motor oil because it seemed to penetrate the tight clearance in the cable better. A few times it actually worked. Usually the cable is damaged or frayed and replacement is the only fix.

 

My 2011 MC steering cable has one spot of mild steel near the rudder end that corrodes too quickly. I carefully drilled an access hole and pumped waterproof grease there. This cable has lasted well. You'd better be a competent mechanic to try this. But the repeated cable failures were a safety and maintenance nightmare. I wish Teleflex would put a xerc fitting there and solve the problem properly. But our cables would last too long.

 

Another pet peeve is that there is not a dedicated conduit for the steering cable. Trivial to manufacture. If it was easier to replace the cable, old boats would get new cables and a new boat feel - and the manufacturer would get a reputation for building boats that drive well forever.

 

Eric

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@GAJ0004: One item to try before giving up on a cable, disconnect at the tiller end raise the end of the cable, slide the rubber grommet away and slowly pour some ATF while/and articulate the cable back and forth to draw the ATF up the cable. You might need to use a syringe or something similar to avoid spilling.
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Does that year have grease zerts on the rudder stuffing box? If you have never replaced the rudder wax rope seals, that could be the problem. Not hard to replace. Just awkward.

 

If the cable was going bad, I don't think temperature would play much a role. The cable strands break and get stuck in the casing, so usually harder one way vs the other. At least my experience. Cable is not off the charts technical to replace, again, just awkward.

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I'm do again as well. Definitely got magnified as the temps got colder. Not hard to do. A bit messy but very doable. Skidim is a great resource for getting the replacement. Then you can put the new one in right after removing old one.
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I've done a couple of cables on '94 SNOB its really pretty easy as long as you use a fish tape. Be warned that there were 2 different sizes of racks for the '94 so you need to get the right part.

 

Also you might want to pay special attention when you disassemble to whether the rack goes above or below the pinion. Don't ask me why I know about this but it makes for a real sporty steering when left turns right and right turns left.

 

Also once you get the new cable on whenever you park the put the wheel in the hardest left turn possible. This keeps the cable retracted into the sleeve.

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I checked my boat's maintenance log book. I changed out the original at 900 hours. I am going to have it replaced. I just hit the 1800 hour mark before putting it away for the winter. I am going to have it changed out. I don't want to damage the steering head.
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If you have a helper it's certainly not difficult enough to pay a shop to do it. Just tie a rope on the old one before pulling it out. The helper can either be the puller or the jiggler to help,move it through. Last one I did (08 SN) I did by myself. Take your time and don't get frustrated if it hangs up a few times. It ain't rocket surgery!
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