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Ski Pond Size?


rodecon
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Make sure you don't have islands. You need the options. You can simulate islands or have a path that is more efficient. If you can dogleg the ends, that helps too. But islands can use up a lot of your available water.

 

Plus they kill and injure skiers and make lake owners lose lawsuits. Horrible things those islands.

 

Eric

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Anyone out there built a pond on a sloped lot? A place in mind has about a 60 foot elevation run over 1700 feet. So we would basically lower one end 30 feet and raise the other end the same 30 feet. Is that even possible?
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@Web I can't imagine that. Just the couple feet of elevation changes on my lakes was difficult enough. Of course if someone is paying you for the dirt, you will have a lot of dirt to sell. But a 30 foot dam is a huge problem in itself. Better a 60 foot cut and more dirt to sell. Might take a few years.

Eric

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I agree seems very difficult. BTW I was envisioning the typical 5 to 8 foot water depth and reshaping the topography, was not suggesting a monster dam 30 ft. The berms on that end would be huge, but only 5 to 8 feet of water. Still probably too much to move though.
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@Web - we moved ~300,000 cubic yards of dirt. Very doable, and if you can find a contractor to do the work in an "off" time that should help save on costs. I would search for someone who knows the area and can take a look at it ahead of time to give you an idea of feasibility.
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@Web -Our lake land had a 1% slope (except for the 50' tall hill on the very end), and that was still a 20' change. We moved approx. 150,000 cy of dirt and ended up with a 6-7' deep lake, with a 10' high dam on one end (3' of freeboard). It worked well, but in your scenario, 60' of change is a huge amount of dirt to be moved.

 

As @thompjs pointed out, there are some criteria regarding dams that can subject you to regulation. I think the laws are federal, so they would apply everywhere, but I can't remember for sure. For our dam to be unregulated, we had to be impounding less than 10' of water from surface to lowest adjacent grade, had limits on the quantity of water, and limits on surface acreage (can't remember the numbers offhand). Even after meeting all of the requirements to be unregulated, we were still forced to have an engineered breach analysis performed to determine the rating of our dam. If you are rated too high, the insurance costs are monumental or coverage is unavailable altogether.

 

Bottom line, if you are considering building a dam, do your homework before you commit.

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@web - a lot of factors play in to what kind of dam you have. There are three "grades" of dams - Level I, Level II, and Level III. You don't want to be in a Level III dam - that is pretty sophisticated and requires yearly inspections from the state. How deep the water is - does or doesn't matter depending on how it is engineered (dam height goes from the Toe to the very top) - even if you only have 1 foot of water in there they (Army Corps) count how much Potential Water your lake could hold, strange but it is the reality (think Johnstown flood for reasoning). Go talk to a civil engineer and have them come look at the site and give you an opinion on feasibility.
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Thanks for the feedback guys, this particular parcel we are looking at has a few strikes against it: only 1700' and 60' grade change end to end. I was quoted in rough numbers that it costs $3-4/ yd to move dirt.......doing that math was sobering, @Skoot1123 is this even in the ballpark of what you experienced? The length isn't as much of an issue but we might have to keep looking for a more level parcel.
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