Changing Wiley Wraps

[mnewth]

This is probably the worst part of using rubber bindings... I'm changing wraps on a pair of bindings and was looking for some advice to make the task a bit easier.

 

Is there a video online showing the "proper" way to do it? I searched online, and on BOS and couldn't find anything to help.

[klindy]

What kind of wrap? If they are the "simple" overlays you can get all the binding screwed together then pull the wraps over the binding.

 

If you have longer screws and regular nuts (not the cap/castle nut) then put it together with the longer screws then after its tight, replace one screw at a time leaving the others tight in place.

 

[mnewth]

Super Jump bindings.

 

Are you saying get the sides screwed down, and then try to pull it down on the back?

 

I really like the longer screw idea. I got the first one done using zip ties in 2 of the 3 holes to cinch it down tight, and then remove one at a time... so it sounds like I'm on the right track.

 

Thanks @klindy

[Horton]

@mnewth I have done it many many times.

 

I expect explaining will be far harder than actually doing it. My method is similar to @klindy

 

Tools needed

1. full size vice grips

2. roofing nails or similar

3. Duct tape

4. four pack of dogfish head 90 minute IPA

You have a wrap that goes around to the right and attaches on the left and a wrap goes around the left and attaches on the right. When you get a new binding from Wiley’s the two wraps crisscross so neither wrap the top and or bottom. This makes reassembly way harder. Confused yet? Look at your binding and this will make more sense.

 

My method is to assemble the binding one side at a time with the wraps off to the side – NOT going around the heel and toe rubber. Do a mockup so you orient the wrap correctly but then when you start to put it together the wrap is just flopping off to the side.

 

When all the screws and acorn nuts are tight I squirt the whole binding with soap and slide the wraps over the top and into place. Now you have a top and bottom wrap. You can pull them apart any time you want to reach in the binding for whatever.

 

You can chose put the back horseshoe or back horseshoe first. I am sure one is easier to do first but I forget. Line up the plate, the layers of rubber, the horseshoe and the wrap – push nails through the assembly to hold everything on place. Then use the vice grips to squeeze everything together. Pull one nail out at a time and replace it with a screw and tighten.

 

Make sense?

 

@klindy ’s longer screws might make this even easier but do not get them much liner then the normal ones. If you do buy screws you will need 8 32 stainless.

 

FYI the duct tape is for the jaws of the vice grips. My horseshoes were always chewed up from this project. If you want pretty horseshoes I would try this.

 

If this does go not well, drink the IPA and work on the binding tomorrow.

 

 

[ktm300]

Use all longer screws with open nuts. Tighten all down and use a dremel type tool with small cutting wheel to cut the extra screw length off. File them relatively smooth. Takes 1/5 the time than wrestling with the short screws and cap nuts. Also allows really tightening the horseshoes as much as you like as the screws are not limited by hitting the cap nut.

[klindy]

@Horton I use longer screws and regular nuts (not acorn nuts) just to get it all assembled. The length can be an inch longer and they don't need to be stainless. Get everything assembled then, one screw at a time, replace the longer screws with the proper size. By far the hardest thing to do is to get all the parts squeezed tight enough to get the first thread to catch on the first couple screws. Horton uses vice grips. I've never used them.

[Horton]

@klindy

More than one way to skin a cat. When I was a jumper I don't think I was aware that there was such a thing as a nut and bolt store so I learned my method based on what I had available. (Late 1980s -early 1990s)

[MISkier]

Some great techniques and suggestions here. I've only ever done it with the original screws, cap nuts, and no vice grips. Took a very long time with a lot of swearing. Only benefit was a huge increase in my own grip strength from wrestling with that overlay, stretching it around the heel piece, and trying to clamp it under the horseshoes with my fingers.

[ntx]

The easiest way is to send them back to Darren at wileys. I lot less frustration in your life.

 

I always had my kids in rubber Wiley bindings as they were growing up. Each February i would pull the bindings off the slalom, trick, and jumpers and have them put new rubber on with the existing hardware. I have some plates marked

Xxs

Xs

S

M

L

 

Darren saved me thousands of $$$$ over the years on bindings.

[mikegile]

Assemble front horseshoe first with overlays in place. Put screws through heel and loosely attach back two screws so there is play in the rear horseshoe.

 

I recommend sitting in a chair for the next part and maybe getting started with an IPA at this point. With the assembled rubber facing away from you place the front of the plate on the chair between your legs. Beware as this can scratch the chair, its best if there is some grip to the chair. One hand on the heel rubber, take the other and grab a wrap. Pull tight over the front toe rubber and hold with the hand on the heel rubber. Grab the other wrap and place it over the first wrap. This will hold the first wrap in place.

 

Continue to pull on the second wrap and tuck it under the heel horseshoe. You can do this with vice grips if you need. Hold pressure on the heel horseshoe to hold in place.

 

Go back the the first wrap and copy move above, wrapping the heel and tucking under the heel hardware. You can make a few adjustments at this point if the wraps don't look right or the lengths are not even. Tighten the heel hardware. If you have the wraps with the holes you don't need to go through the holes if you have a drill rather than a screwdriver.

 

Drink the rest of the IPAs.

[Dirt]

The easiest way:

 

Buy a new binding.

 

Plan B:

 

1. Remove binding from jumper.

 

2. Struggle with it and complain about it on the dock.

 

3. Pro jumper Brian Kinney gets tired of watching you make an ass of yourself and does it for you.

 

4. Thank Brian.

[Horton]

@Dirt there is no beer involved in your solution?

[RichardDoane]

@mnewth - smart guy ships them back to Wiley's for Robert to rebuild and then return

[thompjs]

I used longer screws with SS nylock nuts. Put nut on upside down and cut off excess and grind off any burr.

 

But Richard Doane may have the easiest. Shipping might cost as much as new one anyway.

 

[sunvalleylaw]

So not to highjack the thread, but it appears to me the same ideas could work on D3 Leverage bindings. Seems more efficient to ask the question here rather than post a new thread. If the procedure is different, I can start a new thread. Can anyone with experience with the bindings agree or disagree that the above ideas would apply to the D3 bindings?

[Horton]

D3 stuff should be 1,000,000,000 percent easier. Not the save challenge or problem.

[ColeGiacopuzzi]

When I first switched to Wileys, I definitely tightened the bindings the HARD WAY when I first got them, until I heard about @Horton soap trick from @charlieskiwest.

[MISkier]

I just had to change my heel rubber on my Wiley front binding. I used the method @klindy described:

 

"If you have longer screws and regular nuts (not the cap/castle nut) then put it together with the longer screws then after its tight, replace one screw at a time leaving the others tight in place. "

 

I bought 1 1/2 inch #8 screws and nuts. I didn't use anything else but that and screwdrivers (manual and drill driver). I didn't time myself, but I was probably done in about 15 minutes and definitely less than 20 - including removing and replacing the binding on the ski. Easiest binding repair ever. BOS does it again.

[skiinxs]

I like the longer screw idea, why didn't I think of that? May not be necessary with the longer screws, but several pair of small needle nose vice grips helps a lot.