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I have been using a handle guard for probably 10 years. In the last few years I'd say I've seen an increase in the prevelance of handle guards. I think it's a great development.

 

With my handle guard I've experienced issues with keeping it attached and in the right place. I see the zip ties blow off sometimes and it gets pushed around a lot to where I need to adjust it during sets to ensure I have enough of a gap to grab the handle. Does anyone else have these issues and, if so, what have you done about it? I tend to leave the zip ties a little loose as it seemed to help them from getting ripped off during a fall and it also allows the handle to be adjusted a little easier. Just wondering if anyone has developed any bulletproof methods for dealing with these issues.

 

I'm also curious why none of the handle manufacturers haven't developed a handle that has a guard built in. That would be a welcome development in my book.

 

By the way I currently use the fluid motion guard.

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@Dirt are you saying you took spectra line and basically sowed it into your handle? Do you have any pictures of your handle?

 

@dbutcher with trotline would the idea to be one line going around both sides of the handle? I can see how that would avoid the issue of zip ties being blown off when you fall but I guess that relies on you tying a knot that'll hold up?

 

 

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If your going to do a handle guard Masterline is the way to go. The spectra weave is the best. It keeps your hands out and it's light weight. I'm tow's rope across the bridle does nothing. Too much room for your hand or arm to go into the bridle.
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@skispray I haven't made one yet using trot line, but when I do it will be individual pieces of trot line - four or five on each side. Knots should hold up just fine if you get them tight, and there will be no sharp edges like zip ties. I dull zip tie ends with a grinder, but they are still a little sharp. I don't like sharp edges even though I've never had any part of my body come in contact with them on a handle guard.
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@skispray I too use an FM guard. I too have been using a guard for ~10 years. I use larger tie warps than what comes with the guard. I drilled out the holes on the FM guard to support slightly larger tie wraps. I use Brenda's handle with plastic tubing over the rope. I cinch down the tie wraps really tight and they never get pushed around and they don't blow off.
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There's a guy named Thomas Wayne in Anchorage, Alaska who has created a beautiful handle guard. I'm surprised no one on this site has talked about it. I think they are commercially available, I've seen several recently on local ropes. Really first class construction and the design is pretty ingenious.
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@LanceHCook I think a lot of skiers would purchase TW guards. The issue is not the product, its getting access to them. I know personally I have sent a number of messages to TW and have not heard back. I have used 2 of his guards over the years and they are great; just don't understand why ballers can not get access to them...
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I'm not sure Masterline makes one, or at least I can't find one either. The Fluid motion was about the only one I could find. I ordered one a few months ago. If you're careful about the installation it looks good, and I haven't had problems popping the ties.
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The best guard is @Brewski noose eliminator. Unfortunately TW threatened him with a patent infringement lawsuit so they are not on the market any longer. From what i've heard, TW has not been filling orders. A good homemade version is to buy a cheap plastic roll up cutting board from Wallfart and cut it to fit. Don't ski without a guard. Not worth it!
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Made from a garden trug, holes drilled, zip tied. Having the plastic overhang the handle rope has meant the zip ties have stayed tucked in, just snipped the edges and then sanded down with fine sandpaper. I have had plenty [too many] crashes.

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I've been using gorilla tape as a guard. Have to replace/repair after some handle "pops" every so often though.

 

I used TW's guards for years which worked well except that not only did the zip-ties pop occasionally, but they acted saw teeth on the top bevel of my ski when getting up. Maybe putting zip-ties through the rope instead of around it would prevent that.

 

@Marco when you cut up the rollup cutting board material, are you just following the shape of the old TW guard? Could you post a pic?

 

@dave2ball would like to see a picture of the Masterline guard that you have please.

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@Texas6, that is my next option for a handle guard. I will be adding another 2" panel above the cross bar to close the gap between the cross bar and the handle. I had asked Brenda if she would move the cross bar closer to the handle, but she won't. It is located there to keep your head out of the bridle.

The worst slalom equipment I own is between my ears.

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@Deke Here is a picture of my gray Handle guard made by @Brewski and the red one is made from the flexible cutting boards you can find anywhere. You can either trace your old handle guard, or if you don't have it, just put tension on the handle rope, and trace the yolk. I leave about 2 to 2-1/2" of grab space, and never have any issues.

 

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Great news @Brewski . I kept waiting to hear from you last winter, but figured you probably got sidetracked with work and life or something. I know quite a few people at our lake who would be interested. Let me know when you are ready to start selling again.
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Hey @Marco thanks I will be getting them ready again as soon as I find a house with a shop to buy or rent. I may relocate to another state so it may be awhile but this is # 1 priority now. Thanks~!!!! They will be better than ever and I have a million ideas on how to make them better~!!!!!!!
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Great topic. I got a handle guard this year, after I crashed and saw the handle drag away right in front of my face just before I went into the water headfirst. That was enough to convince me the guard was a good idea. My ski partner bought me one. We both have them and work on keeping them on the handle. The type we have is made by Fluid Motion. A couple of things needed attention:

(1) Attaching it to the two ropes that form the "V". We use zip ties, and some are stronger than others. I think I bought a can of them at Home Depot for $8 which has an assortment of sizes. For a handle with side plastic on the ropes, don't cinch down the zip-ties totally tight. They were breaking on my buddy's handles. So we tried it again with just almost tight. Nothing has failed for a bunch of sets now.

 

(2) Keeping the guard down in the "V". It tended to climb up. I put a cord around the hole at the base of the guard and then wove that into the bridle. Works great. You could use nicer cord than I did (this is like nylon camping line, lightweight, what I used). Just get a threading tool (something like a knitting needle, and cut it shorter) to help you weave the rope into your bridle.

 

(3) How to attach the top of the guard to the middle of the handle. I used a large zip tie with heat shrink tubing covering it. Seems to be fine and this one is also not super tight.

 

It took us a little while to adapt the guard to the handle, but we have it now. We visited Masterline when we were in FL. They showed us also how you could tie down the guard into the bridle for a handle that has a rubber tube over the bridle. Just push the tube down, and then work the cord into the bridle, and then use some soap on it, and push the tube back up over the whole thing. We will do that soon on my buddy's handle.

 

Picture is above for mine. I like these guards and haven't found it interfered with grabbing back onto the handle after you do a one-handed turn.bdf70bzr0kjm.jpg

 

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I made some handle guards on my CNC router. They came out great. They are similar to the FM style, but I customized mine with your first name in the middle. They are made of 1/8" UHMW and are indestructible. I attached it with the parachute cord. If any one is interested, I can post pics, if I can figure out how to do it.
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