Adjusting a floating slalom course.

[GAJ0004]

The course on my lake feels like it is narrow compared to other courses. It is an accufloat course. Some of the PVC pipes have a bend in them making it narrow(they have been in for more than 10 years). I am going to try a fix without having to replace all six 41' sections of pipe. I measured a 34' section of paracord(non stretch). I have attached a couple of dog leash clips on the ends. I am going to attach the clips to the middle drive gate eye bolt, and run it out to the skier ball and attach it out at the skier buoy to get the approximate distance that it is short. I am going to slip a small section of pipe in at the skier buoy end to move the buoy out until the cord is tight. I am hoping they are not off more than a foot. It is the best fix I could think of since I am doing the job by myself. If I go to another lake I lose an entire pass when I run the course. One of my fellow skiers notices the same thing..

[BraceMaker]

Why not just put foam pipe insulation inside the arms? Or add a set of narrow balls if you leave it in all the time?

[Edbrazil]

Check to see if the PVC pipe is sagging, making the skier buoy 'narrow'. If so, put a helper float about in the middle of the PVC. Which could also serve as a mini-course for kids, novices, etc. If by any chance you have an AWSA Technical Controller not far away, they could survey the course. To locate a TC, use the USAWS website, and go to: http://www.usawaterski.org/pages/offdirectory.asp And check the appropriate boxes. Note: the sport discipline to select is: AWS. You may be able to work out a deal with ski rides, for example. Getting an actual survey company to do it is $$$$. Using the officials app., I get 2 TC's: one from Canonsburg, PA, and one from Fairfield, OH. Late thought: I'm assuming you're not on a river with current.

[skihacker]

Insta sells replacement foam for this exact reason, i believe $45 to do all 6 middle sections.

[Edbrazil]

Added notes: I like to use 2 1/2 inch schedule 40 PVC for the gates (10' piece), and 2 inch schedule 40 PVC going out to the buoys, with a short piece of 2 1/2 where the 2 smaller pipes join. 2 inch fits inside of 2 1/2 inch. The latter size can be a bit difficult to find.

[lpskier]

As noted, putting some floatation on the arm will help. If you are like me and don’t like clutter in your course, attach the float directly to the arm. I use an empty jug and a zip tie. A completely empty jug will provide too much floatation, so you’ll partially fill the jug with water and do a little trial and error to get the right amount of floatation get the arm level.

[LeonL]

I believe that it was @Ed_Obermeier who recommended using a length of the same diameter pipe as the arms, with caps attached with zip ties. Put this mid way between boat guide and turn buoy. For me, 30" worked. Make it easy on yourself. However you choose to do it, just use added buoyancy to bring the arm up to level. Don't be adding length and extra work to a pipe that's already the right length.

[GAJ0004]

The arm as a permanent bend in it right near the gates. It is sagging for sure. The pipe is so old that I am not sure if a sub buoy will take out the sag.

 

[Wish]

I have a float course that has been in the water since 1991. The pipes would most certainly sag if I did not have mini course buoys on it. Not 100% sure but I believe once you start pulling the pipe upwards with floats, it will slowly correct itself...slowly.

[LeonL]

2" pvc is pretty flexible. Give flotation in the middle a try. Easy experiment. Just hang a buoy on it and measure it.

[LOTW]

We used the half filled empty jugs on our Accufloat, works great just make sure the boat drivers know they are there so they don't hit them on take off. We have them on a piece of rope but zip tied directly would work too. Easier to remove and attach with rope and clip.

[BraceMaker]

Like the pvc float idea. Maybe even longer but 1" and use it to brace the bow

[GAJ0004]

Lake Latonka does not have any kind of current so we are lucky there..

[GAJ0004]

The course on my lake has 2 1/2'' schedule 40, and I think the 2'' is inside it holding them together.

 

[Fatroll]

Hasn't that course been in there since the '80s? lets get all the people that use it to drop $100-200 each and I will cover the rest and buy a new one from @Ed_Obermeier. He was insanely helpful in rehabing my portable.

[3mustskiteer]

Gary, I had similar issues with floating courses. Eventually you do get sag esp if you don't use mini course buoys & additional PVC float tubes strapped to the buoy arms. This spring I replaced all the buoy arms on the course I ski, its much more accurate now.

[GAJ0004]

I don't think we need a whole new course, but the arms just need replaced. The cable and everything else is still good. I am wondering if there is a better material than pvc that won't sag or bend to use for the arms.

[mwetskier]

@GAJ0004 -the original accufloat used lengths of aluminum angle for gates and splices, tide with hose clamps to 18 foot lengths of clear douglas fir 2x2s. those staid surprisingly straight.

 

[liquid d]

Putting in a good mini course helps kids get started too!

[GAJ0004]

I installed 6 support sub buoys. I used washer fluid jugs half full of water. I attached them to the eyebolt on the middle of the arm. There are more eyebolts out by the skier buoys. I have some more jugs to attach. Storm started to blow in before I could finish. When I have help I will measure the distance from the gate to the buoy.

[jimski]

Does any one use additional floats on their main line

We have a stainless mainline and i think it's two heavy between guide balls and kinks up the course.

Thanks

[GAJ0004]

If the course is not straight just add more tension to the mainline. We use a comalong at one end to adjust the mainline tension.

[lpskier]

Your mainline should be fairly tight. If you use a comealong, be careful not to make the cable too tight. You’ll sink buoys on each end and put too much tension on the cable, which you really don’t want to break. I’ve had a floating course for 30 plus years and I’ve always tightened by hand. You can get the course more than tight enough by hand.

[addkerr]

@GAJ0004 I use aluminium poles and stainless wire. Sag over many many years, but homologate to record every single time without fail.

[VTskier]

I zip tie a small, capped gatorade bottle to the middle of the arm. Depending on the size of the bottle you may have to add some water for the right amount of flotation. This should keep the arms well within tolerance.

[MDB1056]

Should be using mid arm buoys so it doesn't sag, or yes you are going to be short

[Ed_Obermeier]

@GAJ0004 wrote "I don't think we need a whole new course, but the arms just need replaced. The cable and everything else is still good. I am wondering if there is a better material than pvc that won't sag or bend to use for the arms."

 

2" square aluminum tubing is the State of the Art for buoy arms, obviously expensive though. Aluminum angle iron would be next best, then steel angle either by itself or strapped/connected somehow to the PVC (requiring properly placed additional floatation to offset the additional weight). 2" PVC is most commonly used due to price, and if properly balanced at its center point as described in several posts above will give you a lot of years of perfectly fine service life.

 

My best suggestion is to strap a capped length of the same PVC onto the arm at the center point as @LeonL above stated. Generally 3 to 4 feet capped to create a floatation chamber works perfectly, you may have to experiment a bit to get it exact but that will definitely solve the issue.

 

Agreed, if your PVC arms are that old and are bowed you probably need to replace them to get your accuracy back. Pretty inexpensive fix IMO.

 

Cheers, Ed @ EZ-Slalom

[Ed_Obermeier]

@GAJ0004 wrote "I don't think we need a whole new course, but the arms just need replaced. The cable and everything else is still good. I am wondering if there is a better material than pvc that won't sag or bend to use for the arms."

 

2" square aluminum tubing is the State of the Art for buoy arms, obviously expensive though. Aluminum angle iron would be next best, then steel angle either by itself or strapped/connected somehow to the PVC (requiring properly placed additional floatation to offset the additional weight). 2" PVC is most commonly used due to price, and if properly balanced at its center point as described in several posts above will give you a lot of years of perfectly fine service life.

 

My best suggestion is to strap a capped length of the same PVC onto the arm at the center point as @LeonL above stated. Generally 3 to 4 feet capped to create a floatation chamber works perfectly, you may have to experiment a bit to get it exact but that will definitely solve the issue.

 

Agreed, if your PVC arms are that old and are bowed you probably need to replace them to get your accuracy back. Pretty inexpensive fix IMO.

 

Cheers, Ed @ EZ-Slalom

[LeonL]

Actually I believe that I used 3 or 3.5 feet. Forgot.