Rear Binding Mounting Help

[Woody74]

I put a Radar HRT for my rear boot on my new HO Omni Syndicate. There were no instructions with it so I put the large flat screws on the front of the binding and the smaller headed screws in the rear. I tightened them down tight but noticed that the boot moves after I ski it. I have attached some pics of the setup. Have I mounted the HRT binding incorrectly or does it just need to be tighter? How tight is too tight?

 

Thanks for the help!

Joe

 

 

[rawly]

Screws are in correct positions. Crank it down hard. Tough to over torque it with a screw driver.

[Dirt]

@Woody74 It may need shorter screws in the rear or some washers. Some skis are thin in the back and have short inserts.

[oldjeep]

My hrt came with 4 of the bigger flat headed screws and did not have that secondary plate that is sitting on top your plate.

[DavidN]

Use the same screws in the back as you used in the front.

Get rid of the horseshoe aluminum piece.

 

[ScottScott]

The screw could be bottoming out in the insert before holding the plate down nice and tight. You don't want to over tighten and strip the insert within the ski. Good and firm, but not cranked down too much should be enough to hold without it moving around.Try taking the HRT off the ski and just running the screw in to see how far it sticks up after bottoming out in the insert.

[Wayne]

The Radar counter sink head screws are about 3 threads too long when used on an HO ski. HO doesn’t have the wide hole pattern only the narrow one, so you really need to use the horse shoe. If you don’t there are “windows” around the screws so you can rotate the plate on the ski. So the large head screws don’t have sufficient surface contact with the plate to hold the binding down safely.

 

I would either file about 3 threads off the screws you have or run to the hardware store and get some stainless 8-32 counter sink head screws that are shorter. I haven’t purchased HO bindings in a long time, the hardware kits they used to include had the right length screws that would also work with the Radar plates.

[BraceMaker]

D3s washers also work great

 

 

[Wayne]

Wonder if I’m confusing the sequence plate with the individual plates with regards to the slots behind the rear boot.

[igkya]

My buddy's HRT does the same thing and he's on a Vapor. After messing with a few times, he decided that's where it wants to be and just left it there. If it's not hurting your skiing (and the screws are tight), what's the harm?

[Woody74]

Thanks for all of the advice everyone!. I am going to take the HRT off and check the length of the screws to see how much sticks out if and when they bottom out on the back holes and I will also grab a couple of shorter 8-32 counter sink head screws as well just to be safe.

 

@Wayne Also, I just found two black washers/spacers in the box the boot came in. I suspect I use those on the back of the boot between the horseshoe plate and the top of the HRT plate to possibly help with the Radar counter sink screws being too long for the HO rear holes?

 

Thanks!

Joe

[powbmps]

@Woody74 pretty sure those washers go under the front screws. For reference, front Radar bindings come with 6 of those same screws, and 6 washers to go with them.

[Woody74]

@powbmps Thank you!

[Zman]

@Woody74 What @powbmps said, and others.

The washers are for the two front screws.

You absolutely should NOT eliminate the horseshoe. People have cracked plates around all those slots not using the horseshoe. They include it for reason.

You may need shorter screws. But, be sure to engage at least 3 full threads. You should be able to count how many turns once the screw grabs. Less that 3 is a weak connection and could eventually strip. That would not be fun.

[Woody74]

Thanks for all of the help with this everyone! I took the rear binding off and screwed in just the screws. The Radar screws were bottoming out on the rear holes. I swapped them with some 1/2" stainless 8-32 counter sink head screws and am good to go. @Zman I kept the horseshoe and with the new screws was able to get ~6.5-6.75 full threads when fully tightened. I also added the washers to the front screws. I will test it out later this week but seems like the back screws bottoming out before being fully tight was the issue.

 

 

[vtmecheng]

Sorry for bringing back an old thread. I have the exact same setup as the original post, with the plat and I shortened the screws so they don’t bottom out. The HO ski has three inserts back there but using the plate means only two of them can be used. I’m wondering if it’s good using only two rear inserts, I should get the HO plate, or drill an extra hole in the Radar plate for that middle screw? Thanks.

[ALPJr]

Pretty sure the middle hole is for the HO direct connect plates which use the larger waked boot screws.

[vtmecheng]

@ALPJr that's a different insert. The direct connect inserts are larger diameter and forward of the three rear 8-32 traditional inserts.

[aupatking]

Get a roll of foam kitchen drawer liner and cut it to the shape of the plate. That stuff is tacky enough to help hold the plate in place when tightened down. It also prevents plate rash on your ski.

[vtmecheng]

My setup isn’t moving and I have it nice and tight. I’m just wondering if on an HO ski I should use all three rear most inserts or only using two is enough. The Radar rear binding plate has the hole for the middle screw but the doubler plate does not. The HO version of the doubler plate has extra holes for that middle insert, pic of HO plate below.

 

[skialex]

@vtmecheng it’s alright using 2 screws only, you can only use the 3 screws with the HO plate only if you mount it straight. Also newer HO skis now have 2 inserts at the back not 3 like yours...

[skialex]

@vtmecheng

This is a 2021 PRO...

[eleeski]

NEVER reef down on your binding screws! The torque setting is 17 inch pounds for an 8-32 screw (lubricated - you are using anti seize!). That's not a lot of torque. Overtorquing will damage the threads. If you are lucky, only the screw will be damaged. More likely you will ruin the insert. That can be a difficult repair.

 

If your binding moves in the grooves despite proper torque, cut some scrap plastic (a pen cap?) and fill the space on either side of the gap with that. Use a stainless fender washer or that stock horseshoe to cover the gap completely. This trick will prevent your binding from twisting away from your desired angle while preserving your inserts.

 

Check the torque on your screws regularly.

 

Eric

[vtmecheng]

@skialex that is exactly what I want needed to learn. Thank you!