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Engine Light on 2008 196


Martin
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After dewinterizing the boat and skiing a few times, the check engine comes on after about 2 passes. When the boat is turned off and on, it goes away again for about two passes before it comes back on. It did not used to happen last year. It is 08 196 with about 900 hours on. The boat runs the same after the light comes on. Checked fluids and the temp is fine. Anyone might have have an idea what could be causing it? I would prefer not having to buy diacom if I don't have to.

 

Thank you!

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  • Baller
My 08 196 light comes on a lot and sometimes stays on for the day. Temp and oil pressure are fine. Have had read and shows low temp, changed out temp sensor, light still comes on been like that for the past 400 hrs. Runs perfectly. To be safe have you computer read
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  • Baller
@Martin you maybe getting a misfire but subtle enough you don't notice it. DIACOM would pinpoint the engine code. If you are running the PCM 330 excalibur the distributor cap and rotor are known for causing issues. May be worth a shot before you have to haul it to a dealer.
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  • Baller
On my 2000 (obviously older) I learned there are two oil pressure sensors. One that feeds the pressure guage and one that feeds the check engine light. Was confusing to have good oil pressure on the guage, and then have a check engine that was for low oil pressure coming from the other sensor. I disconnected the sensor wire--problem solved til end of season when I could replace the sensor.
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Thank you guys, I will try the distributor cap and the oil sensor before I get a diacom or take it to the dealer. Was wondering about a faulty knock sensor too?! I heard that the oil pressure sensor does go bad.
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  • Baller
There are only 2 things on your ‘08 PCM the will activate the “check engine” light. One is the “oil pressure SWITCH” (NOT the oil pressure SENDER) and the other is the “water temperature SWITCH” (NOT the water temperature SENDER). Faulty SENDERS will effect the gauge reading but will not activate the “check engine” light. The SWITCHES are usually found near and “T’d” off the senders. Are the gauges giving you normal oil pressure and water temperature readings? If so it is most likely your engine is operating at normal oil pleasure and water temperature. If you want to be sure you could independently verify the oil pressure and water temperature by purchasing testers from any auto parts stores. Is your boat going into “Limp Mode” (will not operate above ~2700 rpm) when the “Check engine” light comes on? If so you could disconnect the wire from both the oil pressure and water temperature SWITCHES and your “Limp Mode” will be deactivated and you will be able to use the boat until the switches are replaced. Note: you only want to do that if you are sure you do in fact have normal oil pressure and water temperature. The switches can be purchased from NautiqueParts.com. There is a lot of information concerning this topic on both PlanetNautique.com and CorrectCraftfan.com.
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@James thank you for the info! I need to find these sensors and will test. Both temp and fuel pressure are good based on gauges. The boat does not go into limp, seems to run fine, just check engine is on. Thanks!
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  • Baller_

oil pressure switch may have become out of range. 2008 was a multi wire two in one sending unit.

The third diagram shows pre 2006 oil pressure sending unit and a oil pressure switch that 2008 does not have.

Second diagram shows correct unit for a 08

First diagram same thing one sending unitbfor the water temp and switch.

 

Check all your grounds on the engine as well as the battery. Have a diacom scan done and make sure there are no underlying other issues.

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