hemlock

@BG1 OMG he totally did!, is that going to be a new trick next year? :)

It's something like this: SYSTEM RESET Turn key ON and quickly press and hold “ON/OFF” and “Menu Keys” together for about 5 seconds until [ SYSTEM RESET ^ = YES ] appears. Answer the questions including YES to [Wakeboard Only ^ = YES]. Not sure if this will work, but we did do it on one boat a few years ago. (it may have been a 3-event system re-config'd to wakeboard mode, and so we set it back to 3 event) But a wakeboard edition purchased directly from PP may not be able to switch to 3-event.

Double check first that you can't re-config your wake edition to 3 event. There is a special push-button power on procedure that lets you choose which version you want. (can't remember the procedure but will try to look it up) I think some master modules don't have this option, but some do.

Nice post @Buoyhead69, it reminds me of a long time ago in junior high school when a volleyball coach said to me once.... " This new technique will bring your level down a bit, but soon it will eventually bring your level higher". Practice is key, you learn so much by attempting new techniques. Hopefully after failure and success, you find the right moves that work for you.

Oh, and Radar? If you are listening, please bring back the windows as an option. Thanks. :D

I wonder if the Radar guy knows the Perfect Pass guy? :) Just two companies that seem to stand out on customer service.

I don't think you have to worry about the cushions. There is not a ton of air flow in the cabin and main seating area of a tow boat, especially when it's behind whatever is pulling it. Okay, but don't leave your ski gloves on top of the engine box. ha! +1 for no cover. (Plus you look way more cool without a cover) B) If you hit a storm, pull over, cover it and wait it out. Hopefully you tow rig has good mud flaps.

Are those certain threads/posts that are in the politics/rules category only limited to USA waterski members? I'm a Canadian (so I don't have a USAWS number) and wanted to post a question about a rule. Thanks.

Thanks @MISkier. That sounds about right, that the top block hose "feeds" the heater core, and the return goes to the Y adapter. I guess with my original old setup, the lower circulation pump hose actually pulled water. So, I will plug the lower one.

Update: Okay, I was totally wrong about the impeller hose sizes. They look to be exactly the same. So this is good news, since now I know the Y-adapter will fit on either side, and thus I can install it onto the raw water intake. :smiley: Now I'm not sure which hose is the return from the heater core. Is the return the one that goes to the circulation pump area? or the one to the top of the block? Thanks! The impeller. Lower heater core hose. Upper heater core hose.

@jhughes Yes sorry, not really sure on the size of the intake hose. :blush: But I sense the intake hose connection is bigger than the connection after the impeller. Hoping to get out to the lake tomorrow to confirm sizes.

Thanks @UWSkier @jhughes @MISkier You would think that water passing through the impeller going into the transmission cooler would still provide enough venturi effect to pull water away from the core, thus hot water into the core. But if it doesn't which seems to be the consensus, do you think it's safe to put a reducer in my raw water intake so the Y adapter would fit? In other words, add a reducer to my intake hose down to 1-1/8 inch, attach y adapter, then add enlarger fitting back to the 2 inch hose which then attaches to the impeller.

Update: After talking to some rad shops, it was too expensive to fix. So, I ended buying a whole new heater system from heater craft. (3 vent, via my dealer) Good news, this new system came with the Y adapter to fix the low heat at idle. I never had the Y adapter, (just two hoses from block to the heater core and for years have always had cold air on idle) So, I'm excited to fix my heater, and fix the low heat at idle. Attached is the pic of my Y adapter. From what I've read online, is that it's best to put the Y adapter in "front" of the impeller. But, apparently Malibu puts the Y adapter "after" the impeller. Now looking at this particular Y adapter, I'm pretty sure it's not the correct size to fit on the "front" of the impeller or raw water intake hose. (Perhaps my older boat has a larger raw water intake hose?) It looks way too small. I don't have a recent photo of my raw water intake hose (the heavy stiff one) but I believe its too big to fit this Y adapter. And, I do kinda recall that the impeller connection is smaller "after" the impeller that feeds into the transmission cooler. And this Y adapter looks like it would fit on that section of hose. So, for those of you that have modern Malibu boats or other boats with a Y adapter "after" the impeller, do you have heat a low idle? Thanks in advance for advice.

@GAJ0004 I think I remember bumping up the B1 and B4toExit times to somewhere around 50. I really wanted to see if there would be a difference. You could try bumping up by 5 after each pass and go from there?

Thanks all. I will run power back directly to battery with an inline fuse. (it came with the amp install kit) The remote wire is connected to the head unit, so that should work just fine. Head unit turns on, amp turns on. FWIW, I double checked the circuit breaker amp ratings in my boat, (2003 Sunsetter) and the accessory switch ratings vary. Some are 10 amps, some 15 and 20. (Tower lights, fat sacks, etc etc) I don't have any of those options on my boat so I have lots of free accessory switches. Anyway, I believe my amp could draw more than that. From some research on the net, my 300 watt RMS system should draw up to around 50 Watts. (Something about RMS watts divided by the efficiency, then divided by the Voltage) The inline fuse that came with the kit I believe is rated at 60 amps. I will do yoga or something before I run wire back to the battery again. :smile:

Thanks @addkerr, I will check the amp draw on the amp, and look at the accessory fuse. We mostly slalom, do not have a tower, and definitely do not try to be heroes. :smiley: Just want a better audio experience.

Picked up a new subwoofer enclosure with amp built in. Got it hooked up in the observer seat compartment and all worked great. (direct power connection to the battery) But the compartment almost acts like a sound proof room, and you can barely hear it. Open the hatch, and oh baby! Anyway....I would like to move the subwoofer enclosure to the driver footwell area. It's a tall skinny box, and fits just nicely. The question: Do I have to run the positive and negative cables directly back to the battery? or can I hook the positive to one of my free accessory switches, and run the negative to the common ground mounted under the dash? Thanks.

Check individual ball times. (push menu to highlight the overall time, then push up or down, I think) Adjust the background settings accordingly.

I saw a sticker on a minivan once... it said "I used to be cool". A tower on a true 3 event boat is a minivan. Ha, all kidding aside, a 3 event tow boat without a tower is pure sporty sexiness. Any boat with a tower is completely versatile and practical.

@Windsurfnut 2003 Sunsetter LXI, indmar 335 monsoon.

Thanks @skibug. Yes, after watching the video again in pause mode, the distance changes as the boat moves forward. Weird effect. Still wicked boat.

@skiboyny is spot on. Background settings are key. I run 15-20-15 for 55kph (34.2 mph) on normal skier. I did an experiment this summer as my ball times were always +.01 or +.04. In that range. (But always within tolerance with overall time of 16.86 to 17.04 at 55Kph) Bumped up the background settings by 50 points on each of the three settings. B1, B3 and B4 to exit. After that, everything was -.01 or -.04. So finally came up with B1=15, B3=20, B4Exit=15. Ball times are very close to 0.00 give or take 0.01. These trials will need to be of course adjusted with a skier running the course. What really fixed the middle course surges was lowering the B3 setting. I think the default was up around 50 and lowering it dramatically fixed the surge problem. I *think* you push the on/off button and up key together to get to the background settings. Also, if you have a short setup, version 9.12 or higher (different from previous 9.0x versions) has really improved the engagement after pulling up a skier. It's very similar to a zero off boat where it keeps the RPM's up as you plain and gain speed, and then backs off the gas for you once the speed is locked in.

@ski4xtc Where's the pic? :smiley:

Interesting distance between the back of the engine box, and the rear. LOVE the swim platform. Not a fan of the orange color, but I heard a comment once, "That's an ugly color for a Porsche". The response... "Yeah, but a Porsche looks good in any color".

@pjnyk I have the 2017 Vapor Graphite. Wicked ski. I have the vapor front boot with RTP, but there is also a hybrid RTP you might be interested in. The ski is the same shape/design as the pro-build vapor for that model year, but the core is polyeruthane. (Vapor Lithium was PVC, and Vapor pro-build was pmi core) The Vapor graphite performs magically, it might not have the response as the more expensive core vapor skis, but this is a good core ski if you have rough water. If you have perfect conditions, definitely go for the better cores, but if you have rougher water at times, then a higher end ski, with a cheaper core may actually be better... and will help the wallet. :)