FLeboeuf

Oh and also my Denali 2016 will be for sale pretty soon. its a 65" for 36 mph no inserts on those skis: 1000$ My A1 is a 66 and the D3 is a 67.

I have an HO A1 100$ and D3 Quest 2014 400$. I'm in Ontario.

I'm about 45 min -1 hour south of Montreal. Good chances that I'll be available, I'm on vacation at the end of June. I have a nice spot on the St-Lawrence river and a ski 200. PM me if you're interested.

I ski on lake St-Francis which is the St-Lawrence river between cornwall, ontario and valleyfield Qc. I have a course there pretty well hidden from boat trafic, and very good conditions. My course is on the Quebec side of the lake. I live on the Ontario side and it takes me about 10 minutes boat ride to get to the course. There are lots of cottages for rent on the Qc side which is closer to my course. Its a very nice lake too for anything else besides skiing. Free access to my course but I would need to show you where it is no need to bring your own and you can ski anytime you want there are no neighbours close by.

Just to clarify, shallow water makes the ski ride flatter of what I know.

It definitely can make the ski blow out if there is a lot of weeds. It happened a lot to me. I suspect that dense weeds that grow up close to the surface (less than a foot) can make the water feel as if it was shallower. Could I be right @SkiJay? On my site where there is a lot of weeds I run my fin very deep and short to keep the tip up and tail down. It helped me a lot.

I think you just need the right fin and binding setting. I got mine in May and the settings were way off of where I am now. Boots and fin were back. The fin was at 0,760 dft which is a normal stock dft compared to many skis and the front boot at 29,25. It still skied well but not like it does now. I dont know if the Adams found a "stock setting " yet but with what I ve been reading on the Denali forum and in my experience I think the bindings and fin should go very foward compared to other skis, especially the fin. I started running some 38s at 36 mph when I put my binding around 29,75 and the fin in the 0,900s dft and I am on the 65". Since then I ran 2 pb in the same tournament, the last one I went to and ran more 38s than my last 2 skis also, in the last month. I found the right settings a little more than a month ago and that because the Adams were trying foward setups and figured that they were really working well at about that time so.. I tried over 25 settings which is a lot for me. It became obvious to many people, on the denali forum, that the foward settings were the way to go on this ski about maybe 2 months ago max I think. I would recommend to try these setting on the Denali if you havent. It is a fun ski but I think that it can also help boost your skiing. I really dont think you need any special mindset or skills for this ski, just the right setup which is everything foward (front boot around 30" and fin at 0,900s dft) I started running 38 2 years ago with Seth Stisher who tought me how to transition properly. Then last year I lost or forgot that proper way to transition because I did not get through 38 once. And this year still not having super transitions,though recently found how to make it better but not quite where I want it to be, but still manage to get through 38 so I believe its the ski helping me, at least 50%. I understand the COM foward and everything but I dont go crazy with it. You need to know that its a freaky fast ski but you also have to make it turn and it turns best with fin and boot foward.

I installed an insta slalom and stuck it to the bottom of the lake. The pvc pipes are held by a couple of concrete rods bent in U shape as narrow as I could bend them, about 2 feet long, stuck in the bottom that is mostly muddy so its easy to stick them in. There are a couple of 50 lbs concrete blocks holding the pipes too. Its been there 6 years and it hasnt moved an inch. I just take the buoys out in the fall and let the ropes sink. Finding it in the spring is a bit of a hassle but I dont mind. I have to put a warm wet suit, walk in the water ( theres about 4 to 6 feet) and find the main line with my feet and from there I can easily find the rest of the course. I used to attach plastic cans where the buoys were and fill them up with water so they sink thinking it would be easier to find in the spring but I have so much weeds that the cans would get burried so that wasnt worth the trouble. I say do it but fix the pipes solidly to the bottom so nothing moves.

No doubt if you run 39 and even 38 after 10 tries, youve earned the right to brag about it. But I think its established that the term "personal best" in slalom is a score done straight up the line.

@Horton, I agree with everything you re saying just not with your title. It is true that you have to be honest with yourself if you want to claim a practice pb though and it should be done, of course, as a tournament style set.

It is true that a pb in tournament is awesome and it "officialises" a score but to say that practice scores dont count I must disagree. Tournaments is more about you mental toughness than you true ability to ski. For me, my tournament sets are about 7% of my seasons total sets. I can run 38 on a good day and this it happened 7 times only this year which is about 7% of my total sets also. And Im not counting the numbers of passes. Maybe if I would have went to more tournaments and made it like 20% of my seasons total sets maybe I would have run 38 because I would have increases my number of chances to run it but I didnt. My point is if you dont compete and can run 39 once in a while with a good driver and an official slalom course it still means you can run 39. If you want to officialize it you just got to give it many tries in tournaments and eventually it will happen..maybe if the stars align for you on that day. Running a hard pass in practice doesnt diminish the value of it, its just that you wont have proof of it on paper. That my opinion anyway.. But yes tournaments are awesome and yes there is something very special of scoring big at a tournament.

Oh yeah I forgot, engine runs well, temp., Oil pressure everything is normal and I dont hear any knocking.

Hi ballers! I have been having the same knock sensor code popping up every now and then since the beginning of the season on my Nautique 200. Its always the port side sensor and its the DTC 327 code which means the sensor detects less than a certain amount of volts. The dealer mechanic came twice. The first time he realized I put thread scellant which I learned is a big NO. He cleaned it a bit, put some grease and put it back and it worked for about a month. The codes came back. The check engine light turned on when going over 34 mph. This time the cam retard was off a couple of degrees and the rotor was not installed properly. That worked for another two weeks. The codes popped up again. This time I took off the left sensor and cleaned the threads in the block and of the sensor. It was very dirty. It worked another two weeks until today. This time the check engine light always comes on when Im going about 30 mph with or without zero off. The check engine light turns on only about an hour at least after start up. It never lights at 36 mph and never under 30 mph. The mecanic says the wires are good and the sensor works. That Im sure because I ve tested the sensor and it does work. Mecanic is thinkg maybe the cam retard was not ajusted properly... Has anyone experienced this and what did you do to solve that problem? It would be nice to avoid having the mecanic come back. It is starting to get expensive.. Thanks! Francis

I ordered them by calling goode. They do sell them but not online.

I had knock sensors codes twice this year. First time it was not tight enough with thread sealant..not good. Second time the rotor was loose and cam retard was off 4 degrees. Now it should be good hopefully. I have a ex343 2011.

I've had similar symptoms last year and the dealer made change the fuel filters and check everything fuel related and even changed the fuel. Turned out it was the cap and rotor that had not been changed in 400 hours. My engine is a 343 also but 2011. Could be that also. Very easy fix.

I'm still dialing in the ski for the moment, I have been on it for less then a month but only about 6 sets on it. For me, i've never had a better onside before (Ive skied on an A1, nano 1 and quest in the last 6 years). It doesnt stall no matter how much lean and angle I give it. But My first set on the Denali was pretty catastrophic. I couldnt run my opener (28 off @ 36) and had to slow to 34 and could run 28 but not 32. I even crashed pretty hard on my first pass going to 2 ball and hurt my neck a little. With the help of Adam Cord, I found a setting that worked okay. After that first set I freeskied 2 sets on it to get a better feeling of the ski and it worked because my first set back in the course after that, I was back at my normal skiing level for this time of year. My offside has never been great on any ski but feels good on the Denali and yes it is fast, very fast. I'm running shallower and longer than my previous skis and its working well up to now. (Depth 2.46 deep side, Length 6.935 instead of 2.5ish and 6.85ish). It is a different ski that might require some significant adaptation to some skiers but its worth it. I am loving this ski!

Youre welcome. I was also thinking maybe the circulating pump could be starting to wear down. It could be working well at higher speed since it spins faster. At idle, if there is something wrong in the pump, it might not spin fast enough to overcome whatever restriction there is in there. I would worry only if the temp is at 180 all the time at idle. And check you boat manual, for my boat overheat occurs at 200, I know older engine overheat occurs at 220 so if its the case 180 shoulnt damage your engine but it could be not normal

It is normal for the temperature to increase a little more than normal after a slalom pass when you stop and put the boat to neutral to shorten the rope or something. The boat is under load, the temperature increases, but water flows more in the block Somthe temp stays normal, but the moment you stop after a pass, the engine is still at "under load" temperature for a little time and the waterflow decreases somthe temp increases a little. But after a few minutes like 1 or 2 max usually the temperature comes back to normal and even lower. And if you dont let the time for the temperature to get back to normal and go for another pass, the temperature goes back down because of the increased waterflow. Thats what my Nautique dealer mechanic says. So it might be normal unless the temp stays at 180 all the time at idle. Water temperature affects this too.

But the fun you get out of outweighs the risks and physical imbalances it can create in a human body

Deanoski, ignore my thumb down. I didnt click it on purpose. I dont know enough about bindings to agree or disagree on anything anyway :)

@adamcaldwell, just to be sure, "skis angle of attack", is the angle of the ski vs the surface of the water ( or angle of lean if the body is perfectly perpendicular to the width of the ski)? Not ski vs CL, right?

Ed_ johnson, agreed! I also really appreciate the scientific and objective approach to the sport.

@adamcaldwell awesome! Waiting enthousiastically and impatientely

Are there precise numbers of maximum angle of ski vs water (or amount of lean) that you dont want to exeed depending on how fast you are going throughout the course in order to not overload and obtain maximum speed? Has it been figured out yet or is it not relevant?