mlange

Replaced plugs and wires and runs better than ever. It was cylinder #2 showing the misfires. I numbered the old plugs when I pulled them and that plug had a .044 gap. Ever other one had a .040 gap. Aside from that gap every plug looked exactly the same and the electrode on that .044 gapped plug looked ok. Think I need to buy Diacom. It showed a misfire count on that cylinder that never popped up on LINC as a trouble code. Thanks for the input everyone.

New TCP on and flashed, but we think PCM gave us the wrong firmware because the command vs. actual throttle percentages aren't matching and results in a serious hesitation out of the hole. As for the "pulsing"... even though LINC wasn't showing a code Diacom was showing that there were a few thousand misfires on cylinder #2. We put an inline spark tester on and are seeing good spark so we think the coil and wires are ok. Despite that I'm putting new plugs/wires on tonight and we'll see how things go after another flash of the ECM. If plugs/wires don't do the trick thinking injector.

Appreciate the response. After replacing both filters went out again last night and behavior is the same. I guess the good news is that it's consistent and even stumbles every 5-10 seconds at idle. I was starting to think high pressure fuel pump, but wouldn't expect that at idle. I did get another TCP trouble code again last night. Have a new TCP coming today. A tech is coming out tonight to flash it. If that doesn't do the trick we'll see if Diacom catches anything. And if that doesn't catch anything I plan to do to plugs/wires tomorrow and then dig into the coils.

@RichardDoane I'm not trying to do anything with ZO. I'm hoping/asking if there is diagnostic software similar to Diacom that will work with the E-com cable. In other words... I'm looking for a cheaper path to a Diacom-like solution.

Anyone know if there is any diagnostic software that works with the E-com cable used to flash ZO? Already have that cable so I'm hoping there's a cheaper path than Diacom to get diagnostic info. I did find a reference to "4G" from @Jody_Seal in a very old post, but couldn't find that online anywhere.

Thanks @DW I've got a tech that does side jobs with access to Diacom so if my initial list doesn't do the trick we're just going to hook it up and go for a spin. I'll post back the results after I get it all behind me.

@jpwhit No diagnostic codes in LINC. I'd expect if there was a miss it would throw a code. Somewhat wishing it was so I could zero in faster. @chrislandy Thanks for the idea on the coil pack. I've got the PCM Diagnostic Manual so I'll need to look at how to check each one. Checking the temp of each should be eazy peazy so if the fuel/air stuff I'm doing this week doesn't fix it I'll move on to the coils/plugs/wires.

I also posted this on PN. 2012 SN 200 ZR 4 6.0L. 600 hrs Just starting to troubleshoot an issue and plan to throw parts at it if it's part of regular maintenance (or they are cheap) before getting a dealer involved. Very first time out this year when running up/down the lake the boat would have a very quick (and very, very short) drop of, say, 200 RPMs. It was so short I couldn't even hear it, but it almost felt like there was suddenly a bit of resistance to moving forward if that makes sense. Sort of like if you were driving a car and just for a very split second you let your foot off the accelerator and then put it right back on. Perhaps said another way, instead of being pinned into the driver seat from the force of moving forward, just for a split second you wouldn't feel pinned. The problem went away by the time I was out next time around so I wrote it off as bad gas. This weekend the problem reoccurred. My driver said he also heard a few "pops" from the engine. My driver isn't a mechanic, but he's not a moron either and very specifically didn't call it a backfire. From the rope end I didn't hear (or feel) anything odd. I hopped in and drove it. It is a bit rough out of the hole and at various RPMs (20 mph, 34mph, 36 mph) it's doing that same thing from the first time out. I didn't hear any "pops" again, though. FCC filter and water/fuel separater are 3 yrs old. Plugs have 150 hrs on them. I drained the FCC and didn't find any water. Running at the right temperature. Run 89 reformulated non-ethanol. ZO on/off makes no difference. Over the last two years I have had a few codes thrown for the throttle position sensor, but only when I'm idling in/out of gear. I've delayed replacing it so far since the ECM needs to be flashed for a new one. I'm going to focus first on fuel, then ignition, then other stuff. If you guys have any other things to add to my list it would be much appreciated. Fuel/Air Replace FCC filter Replace spin on filter Clean flame arrestor Replace MAT sensor Add injector cleaner to tank Add fuel dry to tank Switch to 91 non-ethanol Ignition Replace plug wires Other Replace throttle position sensor Any other things to add to the list?

IIRC there is different LINC firmware for Clarion vs. whatever other brand they used.

Nope. Sorry.

I updated the Clarion in my 2012 to an M608 and it was plug-n-play.

Friend and neighbor both have one and both love them. In winter they take the top off just like you would a regular old canopy, but the side curtains stay on. Neither of them have had any problems with it during the 10 years or so that they've had them.

Sure it's dying. 40 years ago jet skis, wakeboards and wakesurf boards didn't exist. The only real water sport option was skiing. When those others came around they didn't bring in new people to water sports. They stole from the existing water ski base. So you took a niche sport and made it even nichier. And while access and cost is clearly a problem it sure hasn't slowed down the growth of wakeboarding or wakesurfing where the boat costs are even worse. So while cost is a good reason for why skiing hasn't grown it is not the reason that it has shrunk. And as Horton said... it's real damn tough to get any good at it. If I suck at golfing I can still go out, play a round, and hit a few good shots. How long does it take a new skier to do even the mini course for the first time?

Between the 216 and TXi you're looking at two completely different types of boats. I've had a couple of TXi's and for skiing the thing was a dream, but even with putting a sack in it the wake for boarding and surfing sucked. If want a true crossover I'd stay away from a TXi, 200 or PS. Something to be said for buying a boat whose history you know so your old 216 sounds like a great option. Ultimately, you need to figure out if you want a crossover or a true ski machine.

2012 200 6L With boom in storage area I need 100 lbs and I just put it out on the floor on the passenger side and move it around depending on who is driving. I weight 180 and one of my drivers is probably 250 and have never needed more weight than the 100# to balance things out.

2012 200 6L With boom in storage area I need 100 lbs and I just put it out on the floor on the passenger side and move it around depending on who is driving. I weight 180 and one of my drivers is probably 250 and have never needed more weight than the 100# to balance things out.

There used to be a course on Neosho Pond north of Oconomowoc. I believe one of the old MC promo guys still maintains it and lives on the pond, but haven't made my way up there for 8 years or so.

Ahhh. That was the one thing I wasn't sure of. Is there a harness that plugs into that and then connects to the two gauges? Or does that harness plugin into one of them and then there's an interconnect between the two?

@jpwhit Verdict is in. At least on my '12 the 12-pin analog connector is there.

I built a new house last year and didn't yet have power directly at the dock so I was running a 100' 12 ga extension cord down to a LiftTech on a 4000lb SS with the newer style V-bunks. I'd say the cord would get "warm", but never hot and never anything that I would have been uncomfortable with even though I know I was pushing things with that set up. Sounds like something is definitely wrong there.

Yep. Looks to me like there should be a 12 pin connector and a separate one for the depth. Wish I had the time to check before this weekend. I'll take pics either way.

The attached file here makes me think that the wiring harness will have everything I need. If you zoom way in you can see both a LINC and analog connector in the harness. While the title of this is 2016 the date on the drawing is 2011. It makes sense. Why would Nautique want a different harness for a LINC vs. analog boat? Just have one harness that works for all 200's. We'll see this weekend.

@jpwhit Sorry. I missed your comment to me above. Good call on the ZO head unit. My 2012 LINC actually is integrated w/ ZO, but it's pretty screwy. I forgot that starting in, I think, 2014 the ZO head unit only exists for the boats with analog gauges and LINC boats don't get the head unit. I'm guessing they may even have made that change because of how screwy it is on the 2012's where you can change the ZO settings on both the head unit and LINC. It's so bad I just always use the head unit. I'm going to open up the dash this weekend and hope that I see the analog connectors that Jody thinks might be there. Mike

That's what I was hoping for Jody. I'm seriously considering buying the analog replacements for when LINC eventually sh*ts the bed.

A lot of us (mine is a '12) are likely to run into LINC issues at some point that require a new screen or... Is there a path to go from LINC to the analog gauges that is plug-n-play? Looks like we can get the bezel and gauges from Nautique Parts and Miami Ski Nautique. Bezel - link $160 Speedo - link $330 Tach - link $250 Depth - link $229 ZO we can just use the head unit for. Would need to get a remote for the stereo head unit. Not sure if I'm missing anything.