mlange

I know where it is, but how do I get it out without removing the fuel tank? Any tricks someone can share?

@jjackkrash - you grab a picture by chance. Trying to figure out if I could add whatever is missing on my 2012 6.0L next fall to make it easier going forward.

Not much west of there that I'm aware of. Your best bet is to live 45 mins east of Madison in Lake Country - the Oconomowoc area - if you can make that work.

Not a single ski boat at the Milwaukee show. More wakeboard boats than I could count, including the $300K Paragon.

Spend some real time in all three and choose the one you like most.

Thanks! I'm thinking the same thing on the drain plugs. The juice isn't worth the squeeze to pull the starter for the starboard side.

Need to do new dex-cool on a new to me 2012 SN 200. Looks like it's never been done before. Is the block drain on the 6L a 16mm or 17mm hex bit? It's been a bitch to get out with the SAE size I've been using, which is a bit small, so want to make sure if I'm going to crank on it that I use the right size. Is the only way to get the starboard side plug out to remove the starter? Hoping someone has a trick for me. What are people doing to make this easier for future changes? Drain lines? Seacocks? Thx, Mike

Thanks Golson. So it sounds like the update is the same regardless of Linc being in the picture. Just use the cable, plug into the CAN bus back by the ECM and go.

Thinking through this... Is counter rotating one way of trying to load the line while you cast out?

Have both. Assuming I can set up ZO from either. Boat is being shipped to me right now so can't say for sure. Hopefully someone else with a 2012 SN 200 w/ LINC can chime in.

THANKS for this post. This is, without a doubt, the biggest single problem with my skiing. As soon as I make my edge change I'm almost immediately taking my outside hand of the handle and lose connection. It's an incredibly frustrating muscle memory thing that I just can't shake no matter what I do. So keeping it uncomplicated... what tricks do people that have beat this used?

Already got the cable and software from upgrading to R on my old RTXi in the past so no worries there. Terrified to take a jigsaw to my gelcoat. Just need to grow a pair before I do it. A little confused on your comment re: LINC 2.0. I've got both LINC and a separate head unit. So when I flash it both LINC and the separate head unit will receive the update?

Looking to update to single puck. Few questions: Am I going to need to drill a hole through the deck for the new puck? Looks like the connector on the backside of the puck may require that. What are people using to plug the hole left by the old second puck? Will LINC 2.0 need upgrading as well when I flash the ZO head unit? Thx, Mike

Hmmm. Not sure on the answer to your specific question, but on the '16 TXi that I had the single ECI puck was mounted on top on the driver's side. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that even if it can be mounted underneath I'm assuming they put it on top to get the best signal possible.

Display didn't die. I'm considering pulling the trigger on a 2011 I found, but I want to pull the LINC display and go to the stock gauges. So if there's an analog harness under the dash it sounds like I have some options. Are the gauges that they did in 2011 or the newer-style ones analog? If so, sounds like it should be pretty straight forward. If not, is there a way to use those gauges instead. I'm really striving for a stock look. And what about the keypad? Looks like the 2011 keypad has just one connector coming into the backside of it. The newer style keypad has two connectors going into it. I'd like to be able to switch to the newer style keypad as well. Thanks guys!

Ignoring the money side of this question... Anyone know if you can replace the Linc 1.0 display with gauges in a 2011. Replacement gauges, keypads, bezels, etc... are all available through NautiqueParts. The question is if this is plug-n-play or if there's a lot more to it than that. Would want it to look stock.

Got it Jody. Hopefully I updated the first post with the right info given what you're saying.

Jody, I would have thought that shift-by-wire and the new throttle control went hand-in-hand. Am I missing something there?

Looking through brochures isn't real valuable. For example, it doesn't speak to changes like the hinges on the saddle bags. It doesn't say that shifting is now by wire vs. mechanical. I'm also not overly concerned w/ props. That's an easy "fix". What I'm interested in is things I should consider if I want to target (or steer away from) a specific year. I may want to go 2012+ because I like the new keypad more. I may want to go 2014+ because I really want shift-by-wire. Stuff like that is what I'm after.

Starting to look around and am trying to compile a list of the differences in the 200's. Here's what I've come up with so far: 2011 Some cats, Saddle bag hinges 2012 All cats, New keypad, LINC 2.0 2013 New steering wheel, new throttle control 2014 Stiff shifting, some shift by wire 2015 All shift by wire 2016 DI engines, driver's seat change, single puck ZO 2017 2018 2019 Bryant 200 I'm sure I'm missing a ton of stuff. Steering wheel, stereo, etc... I will update the list in this post as I see items added to the thread.

If you give up on the course Crystal Lake is a great location to get good open water. You'll have to go through a channel for 10 mins or so and then it opens up to the lake.

Link isn't working.

15-off, 32mph ranking across the boats in our crew: 1. 1998 SN 196 2. 2004 SN 196 3. 2016 RTXi 4. 2015 ProStar To be fair the MC PS has never really been set up. The others have been. I ran 150lbs of weight in the bow of the TXi. I run 150 in the 2004 SN 196, but only to balance it out better. No weight in the 1998 SN 196 and no weight in the MC PS. Haven't skied the SN 200 at that length/speed.

I've pulled a 9-11 year old consistently w/ my old '16 TXi. She preferred my boat to her dad's '15 ProStar for what it's worth. She ski'd at 15-off and ~ 20 mph. I always ran with a 40 lb weight in the nose and separate 40 lb weights under each side on the bow - so 120 lbs total in the bow area.

@Deanoski - Is that 6.5N? If so, how much for the master module? Looking for a DigitalPro chip to use in an '04 SN 196 before I upgrade to Stargazer next year.