Chuck_Dickey

JDarwin, Were your comments on SG in a DBW boat or a servo? For your daughter, have you adjusted the "gate up 1 & 3 ball" settings in the "L" mode or was she skiing in the "N" mode? I have a club tournament to pull this weekend and only Friday to try to dial it in. I have an '03 PS-197 which is servo. The lake is a short setup and I'm thinking of just running it in PP Classic. Comments and suggestions welcome from any and all.  Chuck

 These are posted on the Performance Surf and Ski site for the RS-1 Fin Setup:..................Bindings.......Fin Length........Fin Depth....DFT                   66":.......28 7/8â€ÂÂ..........6.850.................2.48.........0.74                   67":.......29 1/4â€ÂÂ..........6.870.................2.50.........0.78                   68":.......30â€Â ..............6.880.................2.505.......0.79 These setting are to the best to date stock settings. We will always be testing new setups for these skis and learning the potential of the RS-1. This is a ski that will offer tremendous variety in settings to the skier who wants to keep pushing the envelope. The stock settings have been tested and give a very solid first impression of the potential awaiting the skier.

Two of the best skiers I've skied with are Chet Raley and Win DeCree. Both do the one handed with a little glide before they turn in. These guys are very consistant at the gates as well as getting deep into 41 off. Chet at 55k and Wim at 58k. In all the times I've been to Chet's he has never missed at 39 off, same goes for Wim. Chet teaches that it is much more reliable. Also, helps to keep you from fading back in towards the boat. The true one-handed MB gate is much more inconsistant, even Marcus Brown say so.

I recently upgraded to SG on my 2003 MC-PS-197 and am having a difficult time on a short setup lake we ski about half the time. I think you have to be very careful not to overspeed into the pregate as Anthony stated about the ZO problem. You'd think with all this new technology it would be easier. Anyone with gate up, 1 ball and 3 ball settings which are working on my model year MC, please post them. Got a greatly details post from a Malibu owner but have not had a chance to test them. His are very different than stock setting!

JD, Did you hear what the stock numbers are ?

I noticed two different graphic combinations, which is released? Are the different lengths different graphics? http://www.perfski.com/files/13/06dba905-65bf-d230-4012-b5d446feb613.jpg

What are the bone stock settings for your new baby? Are you skiing her with a wing on?

Not twins.....Triplets!

Thomas, Not trying to be critical of your design, I'm all for it and yours seems to be the best going. You may have addressed this question before and I missed it, but are you concerned with putting a finger in the mesh or are the holes too small? Did you ever try a solid panel, maybe something more pliable than polycarbonate, like polyurethane or a PVC coated fabric? Where can I get one?

Wow, very cool! How long before she gets wet?

ktm300, My line length is probably longer than most posting here, but her I go. Not sure this will work for you, but I think of it as the start of the counter rotation. Pushing the inside hip towards the ball in the pre-turn. Leaving the previous ball I consciencely try to square my shoulders to the boat, which causes me to push or try to lead with my outside hip. Then going into the preturn, I start the counter (almost trying to square my shoulders to the shore) by pushing my inside hip towards the ball.  Rossi explained it to me once as, trying to sit on one ball with your right butt cheek, trying to sit on two ball with the left. You can only do this by leading with the inside hip. I think this may be what Marcus describes as moving your center of mass in the direction you want to travel. Bruce Butterfield recently posted this tip. I had to do with starting the pull out, but I think it applies here : http://ballofspray.com/vanillaforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=451&page=1#Item_17 He wrote; Instead of leading with your left shoulder, like in the picture, try to keep your shoulders level and lead with your left hip. It can be as simple thinking about moving your left hip in the direction you want to go.

Would this type release work better? Mechanical release designed to release under load. Release person must hold the skier instead of release the skier. http://www.masterlineusa.com/Masterline/Releases/2-Robbins-Trick-Release

Try these MPD #'s on a 67" @ 55k. Got them from Rossi 6.84 tips 2.48 d .77 dft 8 degree These are working great for me.

 New black and white liners. $50 each

Goode Powershell-4's with new Intuition liners. Size "S" check chart below. Coil of clear dual lock thrown in. $200.00 + shipping and they are yours. crdickey@hotmail.com http://www.goode.com/images/sizecht.gif

Goode Powershell-4's with new Intuition liners. Size "S" check chart below. Coil of clear dual lock thrown in. $200.00 + shipping and they are yours. crdickey@hotmail.com http://www.goode.com/images/sizecht.gif

NFW I want admin! Love the site, please keep it going as is.

Speaking of new gear, I received my RS-1 boots last weekend and can't say enough good things about them. Thanks for the tip John. I'm skiing much better than I was on my Powershell's. Better finish coming out of the turn, very little speed loss and great angle cross course. I'm way early to the ball! All I did was bolt them in the same position and rotation and jumped in the water. Had them too loose the first pass, too tight the second pass, then just right for the balance of the sets. All I can say is.....Try them!

The SG system needs a paddle wheel in speed based modes as kind of a redundent signal in case you loose GPS lock, but will correct better for water current in a river situation.  Aaron @ PP told me they are releasing a new version in about a week for those that don't want to cut a hole for the paddle wheel. It is the same software function as the current version with a couple lines of code to eleminate the paddle wheel for trick / speed based modes. If you have the 7.04 version there should be no need to update for a good while. He did say they really want user feedback to make sure we are all happy and make changes if we find errors or problems. Great group of folks @ PP !

Wrap your toe with tape to make it 1/4" larger / poke up more when you heat mold the liner. This should force the liner to mold an indent / relief area for your toe nail. When I stand bare foot on a hard surface my big toes sort of slope upwards, so I have to do this method to keep from loosing my toe nails. If the shell its self is pushing down on your toe, check with Eddie Roberts to see if the shell is moldable. You may be able to heat the tip of the shell and get relief this way.

Beautiful ski, mint condition 5 sets on it 106+ CBR fin Blank Slalom Sock and HO padded bag All new. $700.00 for the lot.

Roller Derby roller blades are a great hard shell and very inexpensive. Check your local sporting goods store. $50.00 for a pair. I think Bruce Butterfield buys the black Malibu GT's. Just drill out the rivits holding the skates to the boot. http://www.skates.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=I-257 http://www.skates.com/v/vspfiles/photos/I-257-2T.jpg http://www.skates.com/Roller-Derby-Odyssey-p/i-243.htm http://www.skates.com/v/vspfiles/photos/I-243-2T.jpg

"Chet may just be trying to prevent the same thing that was happening with mine. I guess the only way to know for sure is to ask Chet." Wim DeCree has a totally different system and does the same boltingÂÂÂ

When I saw them at the IST-2008 they were bungie type laces and if you wanted a bit of a tighter feel they have lace hooks like a hiking boot and the higher up the hooks you go the more snug the feel. The release = There is low friction material sewn on the inner liner at key points which allows your foot and the liner to slide out of the shell in a hard fall. The bungie laces stretch allowing the outer shell to expand as your foot and liner slide out. Still looked to me as a possible situation where one foot could stay in while the other could come out. No chance of a pre-release on the RS-1, which I'd like, but which would be worse, possible pre-release on powershells or one foot in and one foot out on the RS-1 ? Still, I would like to try them!

When I was back at Chet's last year, I saw Wim DeCree and Chet Raley both bolted the upper cuff to the lower shell in the achilles area of the boot. It would not flex forward or backwards any more than the flex of the plastic itself. Chet uses the shorter cuff on his front FM boot. I have a picture of Chet's setup on the Warp7, but it's too big for me to post. I came home and tried it but it didn't feel great. Not sure if I  had enough or too much forward press. Remi @ Reflex recommends the cutting the cuff shorter for slalom, I've got a pic of Remi showing where to cut the upper cuff.