Phil2360

Issue at the time I noticed was that both 67's felt big, especially when I jumped back on the CDX-1. At the time I could have easily dropped about 3 kg's, so perception would increase. I know there's more than just length to how big the ski feels, it's just that both felt TOO BIG & that going back to a 65 would seem way too small as it seems a huge jump. Regardless of length's it' just the more finer incremental size options in the S2 that I'm wondering about. IE More appropriately sized S2 Vs CoX that seems too big. Don't really worry much about price difference, $870 & $1170 down here for blanks. So $300, which is a couple of weeks fuel, usually end up staying on them for too many years, co cost difference rounds out. Seems from a quick look that there's a bigger price spread over there.

Ok thinking a bit out loud here but..... Skiing on a 2000 CDX-1 at the moment. Was happily running 22 about 8 years back when we got to ski at least once weekly. A good week was one when we got out on 3 days. Best I achived was 4@28. Once or twice a fortnight has been the agenda for the last couple of years but hoping that is changing this coming Aussie Summer. My CDX is 66" & I range from 155lb super fit to about 180 when fat. When I get up near 180 it feels too small & boggy. At the beginning of last season I got to try an S1 & a CoX SL. Was so early in the season that 15off was a stretch @ 32. Liked both, with the S1 feeling just slightly less forgiving. BUT..... Both just felt that little bit too big, they were both 67". (Were skis a heavier friend had borrowed). From other experience I think a 65" CoX would feel too small (based trying a Nitro & a NOS). So does it sound like the wrong choice to be looking to a 66.5" S2? Where we are it's more or less a case of "You can try it. But then you must Buy it." Don't have the @Horton Luxury of getting to "Un-box" & return lots of skis. Opinions? Thanks Phil PS. Notice the CoX Sizes are in 2" increments while the S2 is in 1". Sorta got a gut feeling a 66" CoX SL would be the size that would feel great if it existed. Was also at the heavier end of my scale when I jumped on both 67" skis. Times I jumed on the Nitro & NOS I was closer to my lower weight.

I was going to suggest thread tape too. Can aldo be twisted up into a single strand & poked in the hole. "When I was a boy!" My tech drawing instruments kept coming unscrewed. Tried this new Loctite stuff on the screws...... 262! Never came undone again!

Sitting here with a great head cold & sore throat, bored with all the usual places, so Googled a few names from the past. Got a good chuckle from the reminder of these few names who a few here probably recognise!. Cheers Phil Ahhhhhhh Chooooo.

Sounds a bit like the cable is binding. Is the carby free when the cables disconnected? Also on the topic of adding extra springs, it's always worth the extra effort to set them up so the pull in opposite directions from opposite sides of the throttle shaft. This will avoid un-necessary load & binding of the throttle shaft in the housing.

The Yellow New Message Flags seem a bit flakey at the moment. Haven't been in here a lot lately & yet the message page shows only 5 threads with the New Messages Flag. You aware of anything ATM @Horton?

@eleeski, Didn't know Muriatic Acid was an option for algae stains. I do know Oxalic Acid works a treat & is probably a bit milder & easier to work with. About 2 or 3 table spoons in a bucket of water with truck wash & stains magically disappear. You can pick it up at most hardware stores. http://www.recochem.com.au/index.php/products/consumer_products/acids_caustics/item/diggers_rust_stain_cleaner Cheers

On the updated version it has either lb or kg after the crew weight. It also steps in increments of about 4kg instead of 10lbs.

Maybe this one is just well equipped for the next outing..... Notice the lounge chair & bit of firewood for in case it gets cool. Who would know what the grass on the fore shores could be like so it would make sense to bring the mower to tidy the grass a bit. This is one my old man sold back in the '70's. It was originally a Volero Half Cabin. The original owners son cut it down to a runabout, about 15 to 20 years down the track. Cheers Phil PS. Here's an original.

@dbski, Sounds like what I did about 10 or 12 years back. Mine was a crash doing something really dopey. (Skiing behind a Jet boat). Few years later I was skiing mid 28 off. Long term I've always noticed discomfort & muscle fatigue when doing things that involve a twisting action, like using a screwdriver or socket wrench. Have also noticed general dull ache at night for the past 12 months or so. What's your vintage @dbski? I'm 48 now & it would have happened back in the late 30's. Cheers Phil.

@One_Ski, have you got some flex or rubber isolation between the pole & the bracket? I found that even with the mass in the latest steel contraption, vibration can be transmitted from the pole if it's mount too rigidly. There's isolation rubber between the pole & the bracket. Incidently the L section alone weighs 6.5kg (about 14lbs) & that fluid head is another 1/2 kg. Phil.

@One_Ski, I presume you mean the P4 Trakker? I've made several different ones now. All have used the same Manfrotto Fluid head seen below The one above worked well, but was too bulky. The next one was like a P4. It was made from 80mm x 10mm aluminium. Fabricated into an "L" shaped bracked woth the Manfrotto head on the top. It was absolutely hopeless. Vibrated like crazy. You could even give it a twang & it would vibrate at a low frequency. So the next attempt was a huge overkill in an attempt to avoid the harmonic vibrations. It is an "L" shapled bracked made from 4" x 1" mild steel. It weighs a ton, but is great. Still a work in progress/experiment, but is almost vibration free. It's not very pretty at the moment, but it's working well & proved mass is needed to defeat the vibrations Maybe we'll get around to finishing it off properly this winter. So with your problem, I look to adding as much weight as possible to the top of the Trakker. Maybe you can try some steel plate or lead under the top of it, or up the back of it. Even if you have to tape it there to try it. The additional weight will lower the harmonic frequency that it vibrates at. Some rubber isolation between the pole & the Trackker will also help minimise the vibrations transferred to the camera via the mount. Cheers Phil

Only seen that once on ours. Was after we'd installed Zbox & I think immediatly after I'd re-entered trick settings. It was a fair while after entering baselines & recal.

Starting to get the whole "Hair Thing" Joke........

Bump!

Bump! Ski manufacturers.

Just had to try this here seeing as how MS has made it almost impossible in Outlook. Cheers Phil

@usaski1 ZO does actually have an internal set of baselines. The just does not see them. They are adjusted dynamically. It's all explained in their patent document.

@east tx skier for the benefit of anyone interested in you old Master Module, it's easily modified to work with Z-Box by someone who can do a bit of circuit board work. I was in exactly the same boat. The guys at Perfect Pass sent me a couple of 7805 Regs with my Z-Box & details on how to mod the board. Basically it's Reg3 that has to be upgraded. Out of curiosity wat was the serial number on your module? Mine was SG00531. Cheers Phil Modding Z-Box here:- http://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/4496/modding-stargazer-for-z-box

Bump for @East tx skier.

@markchilcutt, Rather than running a No Skier pass to veriy times, you are better off running a pass in Cal Mode. That way you can see the suggested RPM change & decide for yourself if you want to use it or not*& make a note of it for later if things don't seem quite right. We quite often run a pass like this each way if its a bit breezy. Can then look at the 2 suggested figures & pick a mid point if we decide to change the Baselines & just adjust them manually.

@east tx skier Even though that one I mentioned above is discontinued, the updated version is probably compatible. It's listed at $199 on their website, so PP is pretty good with their price. https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=158&pID=13195 Interesting that the 1Hz version is only $85.00. Certainly not suitable though. Phil

Gotta remember this is not a Perfect Pass product. It's actually a Garmin product. Perfect Pass just use it for their system. They don't have much say in the quality or life of each unit. https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=8631 Think ZO use the same thing. Cheers Phil. PS. I'd be annoyed if mine died too!

That & a Tattooed Bar-code & GPS ankle bracelet.

Well caught shot @Kevin, What did you use out of interest?