skialex

I have just check hotwater.cc and they still have modetec titanium in stock, in various styles and sizes but they are a bit pricy. You might ask for a discount as they have them in stock for a long time. waterproof.cc also has most of the modetec models in stock. Blacktec is as good and a bit cheaper.

Have you seen skis that plates are directly screwed to the ski with out using a countersunk aluminium washer? The bolt corrodes the plate instead of the washer. Fin clumps and plates are also anodized but that does not prevent the corrosion. I think that most of the flat parts of the system can be replaced by lighter stronger prepreg carbon, probably not all the parts and it might increase the price substantially. So far I have only seen a photo and I'm in the dark so before saying anything else I would prefer to see and try first before judging.

Modetec is Titanium and it is discontinued. They now sell the Black Tec which is also very good and comes in deferent thickness and styles. I personally have a long suit 2mm Black Tec, There is a Shorty 1 or 2 mm, top 1mm and many more. There is also the legendary 1mm Camaro open cell long suit, which is the greatest suit from about 13°C and higher. I'm also about the same size as you and if you go for any Camaro top choose L if you go for the black Tec long suit, you are between L and M (personally I have the L one) If you go for the 1mm Open cell take the M, definitely not Large. There are two online stores in Europe that sell Camaro “waterproof.cc” and “hotwater.cc” in Spain and Austria respectively, they both ships internationally.

It looks very promising, a real effort to develop a safely released system designed exclusively for waterskiing not like mixing up stuff from other sports. Having said that my concern is about using too much aluminium mixed up with stainless steel bolts and pieces. You know when you mix aluminium with stainless steel and water the stronger stainless steel corrodes the aluminium and creates problems such as stack bolts and cosmetic issues. Personally the only aluminium things on my ski are the fin and fin clump and I’m planning to make one out of a carbon block. I wish they could use stainless and prepreg carbon (real carbon for those who know what I mean). However if it comes to Europe I will probably be one of the firsts willing to try it and then buy it. Great effort!

It's your vest! I had the same problem, the stamp on your vest is cracked and dried and it creates friction. Same thing if you are wearing a vest with belts such as O’Neil Outlaw. I really like my old vest (it's an Eagle vest and the image on the right side is cracked and feels like sand paper) so now I wear it only when it's hot and I don’t need a suit. Bib over the vest or rush guard works just fine and your suit will last for years. There is a net layer under the titanium coat and it will keep your suit from tearing apart, mine is still holding after 4 years.

How about "Maximus"? sounds better than Tiberius next to Danger!! Congrats!!

Hi, can anyone explain the theory of the extra hole, I'm interested, how does this affect the ski's attitude, do you have to change the fin settings too and in what way? Thank you!

About the extra hole maybe the previous owner was using the ventral wings; I do not think that will make any deference to the ski characteristics. For the fin setting, take the clamp out, take all the bolts out as well and clean them carefully from the salt deposits and rinse them. Especially for the clamp, be more careful because it is made of aluminium and if you won’t rinse it fast the vinegar will leave stain marks. For the measurement (depth, length), untight two bolts at a time so the already set numbers will stay the same (almost). Start from DFT because if you have to change it after you have set the other numbers you might have to start over.

It took me 6sets to ski consistently and about 15 to reach my previous performance. Now after 6 years on Reflex I would never go back to rubber boots, it force me to ski better, it is much more comfortable and if used correctly much safer. You also need to know that this is a high maintenance system; you need to rinse it and dry it carefully every time, check nuts and bolts often, check that the boot is not loose and when it is adjust it before skiing. Also ask for the Silvretta 750 waterski release not the older 500. In the 500 the spring rusts easily and brakes, they have improved it with the 750waterski. The latest short plate that they sell is from size 4 to size 10 (long plate now is only for size 12). Ask for the "basic" plate, it is made out of G10 material and it is stronger lasts more and costs less than the so called carbon plate witch in my experience will bend on the front as the front horse shoe block stands on the edge of the plate (on size 10). Good luck!

Hi, it's all about how often you release, if it's often you should probably use something to cover your shin. Neoprene cover will only speed up the corrosion process on your Silvretta release. However, if you often release try to be more consistent because the way reflex releases ski does not move away from you as with rubber boots and you might hit the ski with other parts of your body making it more dangerous and painful.

use an Eagle vest, they are not as flexible as Oneil's (which is a good thing for protecting your ribs) and they are the most comfortable to ski in it. Try a size that has a tight fit on you, to give more support to your ribs!!!

Matt, I have two new 404 and a 400 that was never been used in water but I live in Greece, if you still want one let me know. You should also check ebay.de you will find many 404 and 400 at 1/3 of the price that are sell on ebay.com. FM sells them for $150, on eBay you would pay around $70 plus shipping for two release mechanisms. 404 might brake but it function better than the 500 and the spring does not brake as with the 500 which for me it makes it more dangerous, so personally I will continue using the 404 until there gone off the market completely.

Raced dirt bikes for over 25 years, last time was in 2007, since then my focus is in waterski!

For me it is not a big problem, I cut my plates out of carbon sheet and I can cut then drill them make slots at any position on the plate I want, to match the insert pattern. Having said that I do not understand why Goode drill the ski in such a way that does not match the pattern of any rear plate made by every manufacturer out there. There is not one plate (as far as I know) that fits Goode pattern. Goode also makes the “Goode PowerPlate” for bonding the rubber boots to a ski with dual lock without drilling it. That plate made by Goode uses the pattern of all the ski manufactures and not the pattern of the Nano one or Nano xt. I really like that the ski comes with inserts, I use to put Reflex Bonds which is a lot more work than drilling a plate but using a universal pattern would help a lot too!

use the 302 modified acrylate A+B (about 2$ online), then sand it. If you do it right you would not need to cover it with a sticker.