skialex

@mwetskier‌ when in doubt I always measure, heck I have 5 Mitutoyios three 8" one 12" and a dial one and then I have a Slot fin caliper for measuring Goode skis. I measure a lot but not every time and yes any significant move I can tell by wing inspection and residue marks on the fin. I do not have the super human power of eye or feel measurement like you

Actually eye inspection and a 9.5 gauge is all I need when I'm on the dock to ensure that me fin hasn't move.

When I want to be sure that my fin hasn't move and I'm in a hurry I measure length, DFT and use an angle gauge to check the wing (which tells me that depth is right too).

I had problems signing in with Internet Explorer and reluctantly changed to Chrome, no issues ever since!

@SkiJay‌ you are right, I have both easy fin and Schnitz tool but it only takes a minute to take the wing off and a couple of minutes to put it back on, so I use the speed tools only when in a hurry and usually not on my fin.

Skied yesterday afternoon BI about 57, salt water, a bit of cross wind, overall great conditions. I'm going to Kiafas Lake tomorrow for a couple of sets, weather forecast looks great!

I have put the fin settings on that ski!

Nikos Frangistas!!

Greetings for Turkey!

@Stathis Ventouris‌ thio you look great!!!!

keep skiing as much as I can, snow skiing, running, Enduro runs on my CR500 and hitting the gym as much as possible!

I have a machined gauge set from H2Osmosis with 1/2 degrees, it's really great.

You can use a spacer under both the boot heel and the Silvretta release so the lift would not change the fit between them. You can use a 3mm spacer and longer screws, if you want a higher lift you might also need to put something under the middle of the boot to fill the space between the bottom of the shell and the plate but I think that a 3-4 mm lift might be enough.

I just wanted to point out that V Type has already reached the edge of ski world and not only one, there was one more available to demo. As far as the story above it is true, the guy is under 17, skis into deap -35@36 comes from an A3 and skis better and better all the time.

I set the fin on a 66" V Type 10 days ago and I live in Greece! The guy went out on the second round of a tournament (first time on the ski) and came back with a big smile. I think he matched his tournament PB!

@wtrskior‌ thank you, I make them my self, I use 2 pieces of fleece fabric and try to find interesting prints and colors to put together.

Cut the sleeve of an old neoprene top and put it over your suit.

The top two were made out of a wine bottle rack.

I would like to ride MC and Warp!

I used a foot bead for a year, took it off saw no diference, never used it again

A year ago I had a meniscus surgery prior to that and 40 days after I was only skiing -28 or shorter to avoid crossing the wake at -22. The only boat I could ski at -22 or shorter (with no extra pain to my knee) for the first months after surgery was a new TXi. Best wake, now I feel great behind any of the top brand ski boat!

BI does not work for Celsius, but in Fahrenheit last Saturday was 72 and at sea sites where water temperature does not drop that fast was 90. Hopefully it will get better as we have experienced an early and sadden drop in temperature from mid of September till now!

Use silicon spray reasonably, you do not want it on you RTP or bottom of the ski

@PBD‌ WD40 might be your friend on the boat but not on my ski. The new hardshell systems have galvanized or painted steel parts such as buckles and release mechanisms, wd40 will eat the top layer and expose the metal to the elements quicker. Silicon spray and silicon grease is definitely your friend. If you want to unscrew a rusted Silvretta release then yes WD40 is your friend. Fin clamps and other aluminum parts that use stainless screws suffer from electrolysis and the thing is to use grease or silicon grease (before using it on any kind of water) to create a film layer between aluminum and stainless steel. Try to use silicon based products, they are not petroleum based and they do not harm rubber or plastic. Best thing is to use these from when ski is new and after any use. Your ski will look great with no rust or stack screws and adjusting fin or bindings will be as easy as when new. I agree with @eleeski‌, it is like skiing warm-cold water, no big issue.

I ski about 30% on salt water, it's faster but when conditions are great my scores are about the same as on fresh water. I do not own a boat so all I have to do is taking care of my gear, I rince everything very well, use my air compressor to blow the water from the Silvretta and fin box and treat Silvretta and fin box screws with silicon grease regularly. No rust no corrosion whatsoever. To me skiing in sea water is very refreshing and in off season does not get as cold as lakes I usually ski in.