skialex

@Than_Bogan‌ replace just the small parts that are peeling away.

@Horton‌ I cary everything you have listed above in my tool box except the Kilo Kai and travel doc + 8-32 Tap. I do not know about the travel doc but I'm definitely adding Kilo Kai!

@MrJones‌ I really don't know about the pros discussion, when I bought my first Reflex 6 years ago boot came cut from the factory and it was advertised on their site as a solution for slalom versus the uncut that was better for tricks. I have never tried an uncut one but I cut off the top of all my ski buddies' boots and every one of them says that it feels better. I think that with the higher cuff when you lose your balance to the back it works as a longer lever which amplifies rocking back and forth with bad results to your skiing. Well this is my explanation I do not have strong evidence to support this. Alex,

Slot fin caliper if you are ridding a Goode or 8" Mytutoyo for every other ski, wing gauges from H2Osmossis that have halves or from Goode, these are the basics and then a workshop full of stuff, drills, benches, grinders, air compressor and a lot more!

I would only lend it to a fellow competitor in need in my presence and without altering anything (fin, boots, etc). However because I want to be autonomous I cary a lot of stuff with me, fins, releases, boots, tools and I help skiers all the time with failed equipment. Alex,

@MattP‌ I have a picture for you, in order to level my feet I put a 3mm plate on top of an other 3mm plate with 3M tape adhesive, I have tried it 4 years ago and still works great for me, now my bottom plate is 2mm g10. I believe you are in the right direction. Good luck, Alex

I usually use 7 but my Nano XT works best at 9.5

I know wrong answer, faster moving ski, slower in deceleration and raise of the tip!

This adjustment can help you when the water is slow ski becomes less draggy but it also raises the tip, you might need to add some length to compensate that. Lessen the degrees is not the same as taking off the wing completely. Alex

@OKSkier‌ check the photo, I think that this is also the preference of some of the pros Alex

Black, top cut off for slalom, that's what works best for me, Alex,

@MrJones‌ now you should measure the distance from the tail again and adjust accordingly, also check the spring, it usually lasts for about 2 years and then there is a high risk of breaking which leads to prerelease without knowing why. Instead of using duct tape over the tow loop you can use a level hose over it that lasts for years and looks better. Good luck, Alex,

@Deanoski‌ I have an other red one and a 400 new and a yellow slightly used. To my opinion 404 and 400 lock on the boot better than the newer ones. I know 404 breaks, it has happens to me 3 times but after the first time I learned how to notice the signs that is going to break and both times I stopped skiing right before the yard sale ( maybe I was lucky)! In the newer models the arms of the release are a lot stronger but the spring breaks and you are having yard sales without knowing why. They now use a better coated spring in order to last longer. I search the German eBay every winter and when I see a new or nearly new 404 I buy it. To my opinion the best release is the Silvretta SL, it is plastic like the 404 but it has the cross bar welded higher on the straight part of the arms like the 400 and the quality of the spring is the same as the 404's. It is hard to find one in new or newish condition but if you find a pair by them. Alex

I take the boot off every time and when I go home I use my compressor air gun to dry the release, the buckles and fin box and then I spray them with thin silicone spray to prevent corrosion. I hate the looks of rusted components on my ski. Bare in mind that corrosion can break the spring and it does not mater if you have your boot on or off, the load to the spring comes from the tension screw only. After six years of use, my reflex looks like new (only the liner is in very bad shape), I have avoided boot wear by adding a level hose over the metal bar and a Teflon heel block. See image.

Do not worry, fill the void with 302 adhesive (A+B modified acrylate), wet sand it and it will be good for ever.

I have put reflex or Warp bond plates and Reflex bonds on many Goode skis in order not to drill the ski. Bond plates are easier to install but add weight and height and possibly (not so sure) affect the flex characteristics. Reflex bonds are more difficult to install but if done correctly they are great, last forever and you have the benefits of inserts without having to drill the ski. I have a 9800sl set it up with Reflex bonds in 2007 and skied over 500 sets on it and they hold like new after all these years. Permanent Velcro (250+400 grid) is a hassle especially if you need to tighten a screw under the plate or if you want to try forward-backward movements. I use to put inserts only on drilled skis. I'm a big fun of Reflex bonds but lately I find no reason on why not to put inserts. Inserts are more user friendly than all the above, Goode puts inserts now too!

Yes you can put inserts, my friend had a Nano Twist that was drilled from the factory and had the same inserts as the newer models. Actually the holes were very off and we had to widen the plate's holes to center the front binding. Anyway that makes me 100% sure that the ski's top supports inserts! You can buy wood inserts or ski inserts from D3 and FM. You can also search eBay for 8-32 wood inserts. Good luck! If you need help on how to install them, I have done it many times, I can write detailed instructions.

Move the rear binding back!

I went from Large to Medium to Small in my first couple of skiing years. I wear small ever since, for most of the time ML leather palms but few years ago they change the fit and small became to small for me. So I have changed to D3 Customs and bought few pairs to last for a couple of seasons.. I cut the tip of the thumbs and they last longer( first time was difficult to use scissors on a new pair) unless I do that, gloves deteriorate at the thumbs long before the palms do.

@VONMAN‌ by the numbers you gave it seems that you run a very long and shallow fin, On my 66"XT I use sorter and deeper fin and boot at 29. It probably feels that you have to much tip.

The level hose keeps my boot's frond in the same condition like new for over six years.

@BraceMaker‌ this is my solution for the front horseshoe to fix forward lean. And makes the plate lasts forever!

None has the right pattern, drill new holes to the front and widen the rear slots. You can also slotted the front new holes and use the microjust. Good luck!

@MrB‌ I feel that the ski works better when wing is at stock, it would not lift the tip, quite the opposite but when I lessen the degrees it didn't feel right. Until now I was skiing at 7 degrees on most of the skis but to me 9.5 is the best for this wing sensitive ski.

Drill the plate, make some new holes or make slots and use microjust. Instead you can shorten the fin and keep dft and depth at factory and put wing at 9.5 Personally I would drill the plate to put the boots at the desired position. Good luck!