skialex

I set up skis for other skiers all the time with usually with good results. I'm a big fun of factory numbers and then work from there. My ski is dialed , I like to limit ski adjustments to the off season and when I feel happy with the result, try to ski as much as possible with the same setup and focus on technique, I wish!

Please if you have the option always drill the plate never the ski!

I had the same issue with a Radar RTP, you are right about that but drilling it is very easy. as far as the washer issue, now that you use composite plates you do not need to use the aluminum countersank washers to protect your plates. You can use flat stainless steel washers, they fit next to Reflex hardware, they look better and they don't corrode over time.

Great discussion, I'm planing to read the tips very carefully before hitting the water next Saturday!!!

I'm with @MrJones‌, I believe you learn to ski more with the knees than the ankles. I personally would not go back to rubber boots but I believe there is not right or wrong when it comes to binding preference.

@davidmiller‌, hallo what is your suggestion for the rear boot placement on the 66" XT? I use a RTP but I can measure the distance from the back of my heel to the end of the ski minus the thickness of a liner+boot. Thanks!

How about adding some water to a Warp to change the weight distribution while accelerating or slowing down? Just kidding!

If I understand right, you probably have too much tip, your off side is great so probably your onside is very slow and you brake at the waist because the ski does not come under the rope fast enough. you think that it overturns because it makes you break. If your ski is a Radar, there are few fin settings suggestions, use one that is factory or close to factory, from what you have now I think you should decrease length and add some depth. Good luck, hope you enjoy your ski!

Why don't you just use wood screws and if after a period of use the screws become loose then use wood inserts. By that time you might have changed the ski!

@Chef23‌ you can use a grinder such as Dremel or you can use a drill to take out the rivets, but whatever you use have a wet sponge next to you to cool down the rivets to avoid burning the plastic which will end up with larger holes and it might destroy the boot. I personally have made a block out of Teflon that is very durable and after five years is still works great! Good luck! Use longer rivets than what look long enough.

If you have the means to flip the block, you can also use the block from the size 8 you have, both will work!

Is 850$ for two boot setup? If yes I gess it is not that more expensive than reflex or FM. I like that it can be used by skiers both on double or single setups. Also I prefer that it releases seperately despite the weight and cost issue, I believe that the single released systems puts a lot of stress to the Achilles' tendon of the rear foot. Great job!!

I just opened the Goode news letter and I got fooled for few seconds! I have a new ski and After spending 2000$ I would not like to see a newer model coming out so quickly, especially one that would revolutionize the sport. Good joke though!!!!

@DW please do call Goode I would appreciate it a lot. Before N1 matching colour was #17093 and it was great for the pre N1 models, especially the Twist. It would be a great help, thanks!

@shane ski is not that bad but I'm a paranoid, fin on the other hand was really bad after 10 sets, so I had to watersand it and paint spray it to where it touches the ski. My 9800sl has over 500sets and fin is in better condition. Distance is an obstacle, I'm in Greece, I just prefer to just change it with another that would last.

@horton Thanks, I will give it a try, it's a 106, from what I read it's the stiffest, is it going to be closer to stock aluminum?

I'm sorry for mentioning the fin, I suspect that there is an issue there, I'm not that old to the forum and I honestly know nothing about it. Sorry for bringing it up, Reflex and San Rival sell carbon fins though.

@horton I do not do it often but I'm an ocean away from the factory and I have 3 older Goodes that look like new! Thing is that my new XT already needs a bit of sanding and respray around the fin slot. After about 10-15 sets electrolysis has started eating my fin and I had to take it out, sand it and respray it, but it also rot one side of the ski's slot. I also find out that fin is a bit different than the Goode standard fin and in order to use a new one that I have, I have modify it. I have a Horton carbon fin that I have never tried, I'm thinking of trying it. Do you have any suggestions?

Up until now I was using SEM Classic paint to refurbish-refresh my Goode skis code for black is #17093, now my new N1xt's bevels and tail are also sprayed but not exactly black, more like dark grey. Could anyone help me with the colour code? Thank you very much in advance!

I’m Alex Stathatos, 43 years old and I’m a waterski addict years (that what my wife believes0 for the last 13. I ski about 120 sets per year and I have to drive at least 100km to ski the course. I live in Greece, weather is great for about 8 months a year ski both salt and fresh water all year round. There are only few waterski schools but most of them are in lakes with great ski conditions. Owning a boat in Greece is not an option, there are no private or man made lakes so the only option to ski the course, is at a ski school. I also snow ski, ride dirt bikes and run long distances. My hobby is to fix things so I have a very well equipped workshop that I can work on my vintage Mini cooper, my dirt bikes, my house repairs and of course my waterski and waterski gear. I can fix dings, scratches, broken bolts, and most of the things on the ski and bindings. I use materials such as carbon, g10, Teflon, adhesives and try not to run anything aluminium on my ski, I can count about 10 teaks on my slalom ski. I fix other people’s skis as well as most of them don’t like to mess around with their gear and trust my skills. I currently ride a Nano one xt, I bought during the off season and although it feels good to ski on I have to wait until it gets warmer to ski my best or hopefully better. I run 32s constantly, my practice PB is 4@35@34miles, and I hope that with the new ski will eventually run it this season. It took me a while to comment on the BOS forum mostly due to language barrier, it takes me a lot more time to express my thoughts and if sometime my writings annoy somebody it would not be intensively; English is not my native language. BOS forum keeps me going in the offseason, I like the provided knowledge and that I can comment on that and learn new things. I like that most of you are very passionate about the forum and give your knowledge to anyone in need. Thank you guys.

@jordan I exaggerate by saying struggle to pop me up but at that moment is when i know that the engine can not deliver the power it should during the pass. I'm not 100% sure about this but I would like somebody to verify that an underpowered boat could cause a not so successful ski set even if the time is 16.95 or is it just me?

Lately I mostly ski behind smaller engine 196s with many hours and poor maintenance. They straggle to pull me out of the water (178lb) and I have this feeling that when I pull the boat's ZO response is harder making it more difficult to run the course. I'm not sure if it is my skiing or the underpowered boat that make me straggle through the course (probably both) but I tend to believe that a more powerful engine would deliver a smoother more consisted pull through the course.

@bojans Reflex offers a third choice they call it "basic plate" it is basically a g10 3mm plate, it's more durable and cheaper than the so called carbon, it flexes better than the aluminium and it weights only few grams more than the carbon.

@Phil‌ good idea! I use this 3mm plate under the release because I like that it lifts my heel a little. But it has to be a plate, you have to raise both the boot and the release at the same height. If you use washers you will increase the distance between the boot and the release when locked and this is dangerous. It is better to use the reflex lift plate or make one out of composite or aluminum sheet. If you make it your own you can experiment with different thicknesses, reflex's is 3mm thick which is prefer by most.

I thought of your problem and came up with a simple solution. Use a piece of foam and attach it to the arms of your release mechanism with contact adhesive and or with tie wraps. You might have rust issues, but your toe will be saved. Personally I would tie up the laces and come out of the water with my foot inside the toe piece rather than kicking it in after standing up.