lpskier

My course is in water at least 30 feet deep. I use heavy anchors, such as old cast iron radiators, but several cement blocks attached together with a cable or chain work fine too. Either will settle into the bottom and never move. Use a long anchor line, at least four or five times your water depth and put a totally empty large detergent jug (or something similar) at about the halfway point on the anchor line. The jug will always try to float to the surface, keeping constant tension on the anchor line and thus keeping the course tight and straight even if the water level fluctuates. If the water level fluxuates a lot, you may have to manually adjust the course as needed. Don't let the jug get close to the surface; you don't want it getting too close to your propellor, or the propellor of the wally in the IO who will come by. Plan ahead about how you will attach your line to the anchor. If your line is attached in a manner that allows it to chafe, it will break at some point and you will lose your anchor. You can use a piece of hose to make a protective sleeve and I usually use a carabiner to attach the line to the anchor.

December to March, snow ski and conditioning season; April, Florida, biking starts and fishing season opens; May to October 15, Water ski season, tennis, biking and fishing; Mid October to December 1, deer season and college football. Who has enough time?

I'll be in Santa Rosa Beach/Destin April 16 to 22, skiing at Cory's. Anyone in the neighborhood that might want to pull a fellow Baller?

I start fresh and replace mid season. I think it helps avoid tennis elbow. Also I think using a radius handle helps the elbows.

Happy birthday Mark and Scoke!

I resemble that remark! (At least you didn't add the words "fat" or "bald" to you comment.)

I am TRYING to give up Winter for Lent, but SOMEONE is not cooperating.

PT Mike, ah, Pony Tail Mike, of course! Life is funny. I was thinking of you this evening as I was driving home from court in the central Adirondacks and passed the road to Daggett Lake. Sorry to hear about the ankle. Email me and I will give you Terence Fogarty's contact information. He can help you out on the sizing question and answer any other questions you may have about the binding. wilkins at northnet dot org You can mount directly to the ski, or you can mount to an aluminum or G10 plate and attach the plate to the ski using the normal insets. Rui and other Fogman users: You also want to watch the nylon blocks for wear. The circular indent can become oval or chip, resulting in the release pin no longer fitting snugly in place. If they get worn, replace them. Depending on how much you ski, replacing them every year or two is to be expected. You can get parts from Fogman or any Fogman dealer, such as H2Osmosis. I am planning on being at the July 9 ELR at Twin Lakes, and maybe the June 19 C. Hope to see you then!  John

Remember, Shane, no matter how good looking she is, she's someone else's psycho ex girlfriend.

As a 10 plus year Fogman user, I can attest to their performance. I have never had a safety issue, but then again I keep them properly adjusted and replace parts when they seem worn. It seems to me your issue may be fitting your device in the binding. I'm sure it will fit, but the question is will you need a front binding of one size and a rear binding of another in order to get a proper fit on both feet. You'll need to try some on to see. And I would think about wearing a leg condom over the brace to reduce drag. Good luck!

Brent: Bring your boat down in May and we'll get you dialed in. Bring a date and spend the weekend.

With PP classic, you need the magnets for the anticapatory boost at the entry gates (can't recall the technical term, but the magnet triggers a boost at the gate before the skier pulls down the RPMs) and for second segment boost (SSB - remembered this one!). Agree though that @15, hand timer will work fine. In fact, unless you are skiing tournaments, who cares about timing? Who is it that keeps thinking a good permit condition is to remove the balls? Knuckleheads. What a huge hassle. And all it does is hide the course from fisherman who don't know it is there and get their gear hung up. No wonder they don't like us.

Your best bet from the city is Twin Lakes in Monroe, NY (Exit 16 off the NYS Thruway). Nice site. Two lakes, two courses and a jump. Couple tournaments a year and the folks there are very nice. Not sure about memberships. There is a woman that drives there several mornings a week from her apartment near the financial district, and she says she does it in under an hour.

I got a small but nasty abrasion type laceration on the outside of my back leg from sraping the turn ball on 2/4/6. The scrape was right at the point of my leg where the water breaks. Over the next week or so, the scrape went from the size of a dime to the size of a quarter and became quite deep even though I was treating it several times a day to get it healed up. At this point I was skiing at my home site, so the painted balls went directly contributing to the injury getting worse. I believe the water pressure from skiing was the culprit at that point. Nothing worked to heal it up. I started wearing a spray leg every set starting around the middle of July, but even then my leg didn't fully heal until after I was done for the year in October. I am told that the paint that was used was for painting highways, so it may have had a bit of grit in it, I don't know. I know other people who ski the same site that have the same complaint, so it wasn't just me.

Ah! Well I have skied on their snow skis and I liked 'em. And a hundred jobs American is a hundred American jobs.

My experience with painted turn balls is a hole in my leg that took months to heal.

I've been at it since November. Three days a week lifting, three days on the bike, two days at the mountain telemark skiing. I've regained a lot of strength and overall fitness, but the weight is still plus 8 over where I need to be. I'm going to continue doing what I am doing for another 5 weeks to finish my program, then I'm going to start HIIT to try to cut the rest of the weight, although I assume I'll be down to plus 3 or 4 at that point. I'll also be on the water around 4/1.

I hear Goode is moving its entire production line from China to Utah (and creating 100 jobs. Thanks Dave!). Maybe that will help the quality issues. (I'm not a Goode customer so I have no personal experiences or axes to grind.)

There is an interesting statement. How short do you have to go to be a "short line skier"? Do practice scores count, or just tournament scores? If the latter, Class C scores or just ELR? Since there is no definition that I am aware of, lets agree on one. I say anything at 55/38Â or 58/35 , in other words any score over a 96, in an ELR or a 98 in a C makes you a short line skier. Too high a bar? Too low?

How do you interpret the icicles?

So, you know how they discovered Niagara Falls? Seems a Newfoundland team was playing a game of hockey against a team from Quebec on the St. Lawrence River in Montreal and the Newfies got a breakaway...

On a related topic, one of our nearby tournament lakes (a really nice place) paints the turn balls. I don't know what they use for paint, but it is very abrasive and will wear a hole in your shin. It happened to me this June and I didn't finally heal until after the season was over in October. If it is green or yellow, paint is fine. If it is orange, replace the ball when it fades. That being said, I use Krylon on my 55s and it works great.

I knew Jipster43's boat had Stargazer. I could see the Perfect Ass.

I also understand the Euros converted at least one SN to diesel. I wonder, do they have to leave it idling all night?

Seth: Please let us know when the tethers are available. I would like to buy one. Thanks. John Wilkins