Sethro

https://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?endless=summer&topic=Search&category=Boat_3Event&postid=67010

My new Vapor boot had it's first release test (no mechanical release) as I fell forward on my big trick doing a toe wake front. Ski wasn't all the way around either, and the liner released no problem. Had it not released, I'm certain I would have at least pulled my groin/hamstring area.

Thanks @On_edge I had called PP before starting this thread and apparently didn't reach the right person. I was initially told I'd have to upgrade to the Three Event software, and then add the Zbox upgrade on top of that, and that the paddlewheel input was no longer supported. However, I just talked to Aaron at PP and he explained he can make it happen. He also assured me that all I needed was the Zbox upgrade and he'd install the necessary program on the software to utilize the paddle wheel input. The only issue is he thinks it'll only work in wakeboard mode, and that is 0.25 mph increments, so he said he'd change the program for my wakeboard mode to adjust on 0.1 mph increments if he can't get the trick mode to allow it. No change in price either....truly is great customer service which I've always experienced in the past with PP.

RPM mode doesn’t quite cut it for pulling tricks in previous attempts. I haven’t tried with this boat yet. Malibu cruise isn’t an option either as it says “replaced by perfect pass” when the button is pushed to engage it. Yes, that’s a fiberglass platform on top of the teak platform. I’ve been looking for a RLXi with the LS1 engine for many years. I compromised, as this has the Monsoon, but deep down I know it’s more than enough engine. I rolled the dice with this boat buying it sight unseen and it came out of winterization not running right. But, the seller was honest and renegotiated a price and all worked out well.

There is supposedly a river mode in the wake software where one can input the speed of the current. But the issue is the current is variable depending on narrow vs wide, straight vs bend, etc... We get by, but it's just annoying. Supposedly the chip used for the paddle wheel input from Intel is no longer available.

My new to me 2006 RLXi has the Star Gazer Wake S system, and I’m contemplating an upgrade to Zbox. It’s my understanding I’ll need the software upgrade to get the 3 event system going, then Zbox on top of that. Am I missing something? I think I’d really prefer to revert back to a digital pro system so I can use my paddle wheel. Yes, I’m that guy complaining about GPS speed control as we do a very large amount of trick skiing on a river with a variable current. If someone has a working gauge and module from one of their upgrades, I’d be interested.

@landonjohn10 you have it advertised correctly. In 2016 the Vapor was offered in lithium, alloy, and graphite versions.

I don't think he's shafting people, at least by taking their money and not delivering a product. He doesn't charge anything until your handle ships...at least that's my experience. He did not take any of my money.

This happened to me a few years ago. Heard nothing from him after ordering, but probably 6 months later he contacted me saying he was ready to make mine. I tried to be sympathetic regarding his health news and various reasons for not contacting me, but when he got mad and pissy about me no longer wanting the handle I decided I made the right call by moving on.

I made the switch 6-7 years ago to a rear toe plate and it was successful. The first few sets were horrendous, but actually increased PB after that. I also had to change my grip to right palm up a couple years ago (RFF) and that also took a few sets to adjust. One of these days I want to try LFF just for fun, but have no intention of switching.

My next door neighbor is now skiing 28mph in tournaments (86 years old) and still on his Senate, and has been struggling. He’s about 180lbs I think. He refuses to listen to me that he should try a Union or Terrain…or any other wider ski for that matter. I really think it would benefit him greatly.

That’s awesome! I skied on a 67” Radar Union last summer and actually did quite well with it…just free skiing. But it made me wonder about putting my bindings on an appropriately sized Union (or Terrain) and seeing how I liked it. I’m not a fin tweaker, but could the adjustable fin be installed on that ski?

I’ve had one for 10+ years. No complaints.

@Jmoski yes, it’s a separate paddle wheel installed for the perfect pass system and wired directly to the perfect pass control box. @Ski_Dad I did end up buying the gauge. That’ll give me peace of mind to take my current gauge apart and see if I can fix it…assuming it continues to act up. It’s ok so far this year.

@UWSkier that is an option, but I'd probably revert back to PP 6.4 and my single line display before I upgrade to to Star Gazer. I actually have two single line displays, so I'm set for a while. 🙂 I ski with some VERY finicky trick skiers. I used to mess around with one as he wanted 18.4 mph, so I'd tell those in the boat that I was setting at 18.5 or 18.3 and he'd tell me to speed up or down 1 depending. It's truly unreal. I still make fun of him for being so picky, but I'm amazed he can tell the difference.

For those that have had the Perfect Pass gauge apart, can the faceplate be easily swapped out? I have the intermittent blank screen issue with my gauge, and new 3.5" gauges are not available unless upgrading to Star Gazer. I do not want GPS speed control, as the paddle wheel is a better option for the river with a variable current that I do most of my skiing on. I found one with a white and red faceplate and chrome bezel. I'm pretty sure the bezel can be easily swapped out for my black one, but I'm wondering if the faceplate can be as well? Perhaps the LCD screen itself can be swapped between the gauges?

@Jody_Seal Thank you! Exactly the info I was looking for. It even looked like it might be one piece, and not three individual fins??? It's definitely a project boat, but hopefully not too much involved. If the price is right I do plan to buy it, but regardless I'll help the family get it ready to sell. Don't worry, I've still got my 98 Echelon for ski duty. 😀

@Jody_Seal hey, you would know for sure...how does the tracking fin attach to the Ski 200/Sport 200? Through bolted?

There is rumor that the boat was used by a friend and hit a log last summer, it's only time on the water for the year. My assumption is they were damaged, and either on the bottom of the river or taken off to get fixed or replaced. The fact that there isn't gel damage in the area makes me think they were removed to get repaired or replaced. There is also no prop on the boat, but it was found and visibly damaged...but not terribly. I've got experience with through bolted fins, and "lagged in" fins. I just didn't want to ruin my clothes at the time and crawl under the boat, but it sure looked like threaded inserts for the tracking fin fasteners. I thought I could easily confirm that on the internet, but so far haven't had any luck. I think the Ramlin trailer it's sitting on offers way more than enough clearance. The fins wouldn't even come close to hitting anywhere I think. Seems like I remember some early Ski 200/Ramlin trailer posts and people saying that trailer didn't work well for that hull.

Thanks @jpwhit I will cross my fingers the code was never set, and give it a try when I return with my booster pack. The Sport 200 does have tracking fins, or in this case should have tracking fins. 😀

I'm considering the purchase of a 2011 Sport Nautique 200. Unfortunately, the owner recently passed away and those taking care of the estate don't know any details of the boat or its missing components...we did find the swim platform in another building! Right away I noticed the tracking fins are gone, but there doesn't appear to be any gel damage in the area. I wasn't prepared to get under the boat and study it in detail, but it sure looked like there were actual inserts in the hull for the tracking fins...not through bolted? I'm assuming the running gear is the same as the Ski Nautique 200, as Correct Craft says it's the same hull, so has anyone dealt with the replacement of the tracking fins for the Sport/Ski 200? I've done some searching on the internet, but haven't found any answers yet. Also, I'm not familiar at all with the LINC system. Can I just get power to the dash to check things like engine hours? Battery was completely dead, of course. The code to start it/unlock it isn't known either. It's also on a Ramlin trailer that doesn't appear to support the boat except for the outer bunks and about one foot of the front bunks. The bunks inboard of the outer bunks don't even touch the hull...by several inches. Perhaps those inboard bunks only have a function during the loading process itself?

You know, I’ve never timed it. It’s quite slow, and I’d say it’s probably close to 1:30 I’ve often commented how slow it is, but my neighbor always says slow and steady wins the race. I don’t really have a desire to speed it up, but someday I’ll add a remote. It’s just an off the shelf Davit Master winch. I forgot to attach a pic of how it is secured at the seawall. This was freshly painted which turned out to be a waste of time. And I actually prefer the warn metal look now.

@Cnewbert My railway is all homemade, and I used a trailer that was converted into a dolly. The U-channel is embedded in the concrete ramp and boathouse. I have U-channel with pipe welded underneath for support that attaches to the seawall which are 12' long and ultimately sit at a 12 degree angle to the bottom of the river. Those rails then attach to a 20' section of rails that lay on the contour of the bottom. Water depth at the seawall is about 2' and it's a gradual slope down to about 7' at the end of the 32' of railway. The bottom is very firm gravel. I'll attach some pictures that show the components. The maintenance I've done is washing it down with water each year when I remove them and making sure the cable is lubricated and inspected often, and of course replaced when necessary. You do need to be cautious about standing behind the boat when there is tension on the cable for general safety reasons. I also clean out the rails almost every time before I use them with a long 1/2" pipe and a piece of metal cut to the shape of the inside of the U-channel. Small pebbles/rocks often get washed into the rails and can cause the dolly to stop and create slack in the cable till it breaks loose. My next door neighbor had to add a couple of new cross braces after about 25 years of use and they are essentially the same materials and design as mine. I had a lift at my parent's house for over 20 years before I was able to purchase my own waterfront home. I've been putting in/taking out/maintaining free standing lifts for well over 30 years, and I sitll have one for my fishing boat. My dad still has one that I have the honor of taking in and out every year. The criteria for my waterfront home purchase was an acceptable location and a suitable boathouse...that was pretty much it. My wife had to like the house, and I had to like the boathouse. That's my hint that I prefer the railway/boathouse over a free standing lift...absolutely no comparison in my mind. Now, a nice covered slip in a climate where the lift can stay in year round might be a different story. Let me know if you have any other specific questions!

My bilge stays relatively dry, as the carpet soaks up water brought in from skis, jackets, ropes, etc….even though we drip dry before getting in the boat. Well, must of us do. The newer boats without carpet drain all that water into the bilge. At least that’s how it works on the 2019 TXi we use frequently that has seadek flooring.

I would want the vast majority of the water out each time. I even have an industrial fan mounted on my ceiling blowing down into the boat to help dry things out.