aupatking

@ski41off_dave D3 NRG R2, stock settings. 67” 6.935 2.460 0.750 8° 30” front boot. I really don’t want to change the setup, honestly, but my basic -28 pass I keep blowing the tail, even when I feel like everything is good. I keep coming in miles early, and then the ski tip over-rotates to point back to 1 ball. I’m thinking about just sliding the boots back a click or 2 on the Mikro-Just and leaving the fin as is. I spent all day building the walkway to the new boathouse looking at perfect calm water on the lake, not getting any skiing in. Torture. I told my ski partner who was helping that this kind of work was like Cross-Fit, but for men

Water has dropped about 15+ degrees and now, all of a sudden, I’m consistently blowing out the tail on my offside. Should I move boots or fin? How much? I was skiing really well and now I have to really baby the offside or it blows out.

Your throttle cable running on the top of the engine is connected to the potentiometer that electronically detects throttle position. That’s the black plastic box at the end of your cable

@Kelvin is correct. Correct Craft’s DBW on those boats is a cable running from the hand control to the engine where it connects to the DBW potentiometer. I ski 2 boats using that same system. Long throttle throw is not something I’ve really noticed in either. In my 2014 Prostar, I had to sling the throttle to the floor when pulling up a skier.If the cable is stiff or the throw is longer than you like, replace it. It might help. Might not. You may just need to get used to it

I like using golf club shafting 2 part epoxy on black areas. It has a very high strength rating and it blends very well with the black color. I have found that I clean any loose material out with a very fine tip pick, like dental pick, and then wipe the area with a little rubbing alcohol. Put just enough mixed epoxy on a piece of wax paper, and then clear packing tape starting on the bottom of the ski, put the epoxy and wax paper face down on the damage and pull the tape down very tight, again, wrapping from bottom of the ski to the top in order to pull any excess to the top where it can be easily removed with a razor blade. With the packing tape I’m able to put the pressure I would use a clamp for and it’s easier to conform to the shape of the ski. Also, this method typically keeps me from having to file or sand any areas.

@Mateo_Vargas you should see his wife back that trailer in

You guys need to label your tools

I love Manon and love to see her competing. I hope her back problems are a thing of the past soon. She was on the dock with me at my second coaching session ever. I didn’t even know who she was, and we just talked and talked. Wonderful person. We may complain about how small our sport has become, but for those of us in the “crap skier” categories, we are in a golden hour of access to the best in the world. The world number 2 tennis player would never have given the world number 14,003 player a lesson, just sitting around between sets. I still love her for that

I’m still looking for all of my documentation. I feel like it requires a new throttle body as well, so the new throttle potentiometer can mount to it. While we’re on the subject, does anyone know if converting the 330 to EControls ECM with new throttle body makes it technically a 343? I’ve heard it said, but never seen any info to back that up.

@radarlove you have the 02 196, correct? Tim did my 02 as well. It did require the additional throttle by wire(in this case we call it drive-by-wire or DBW), as I’m sure yours will. I’m happy to help with questions and still have the parts list, or I’m sure Jody will pop up any minute. I believe the guy known for doing the ZO conversions on the west coast is Doug Moss. I’ve seen some of the stuff he’s done and it looks great. Oh yeah, as @buoyboy1 said, I also have ZERO regrets. Best slalom boat ever made

My 02 is my favorite slalom boat I’ve ever owned. Someone is going to get a great boat.

All the pros have evacuated to Lymanland. Y’all be safe down there, this one is a monster. I’m praying for the people in the path. It has devastated the area it made landfall

@lpskier knows what he’s talking about, the guy is around your same age and still makes -35 @ 34 mph look like a walk in the park. You have a great ski and it would honestly be my suggestion if you weren’t already on it. If you have got to throw money down on a new ski (which I love to do, myself) any of the current D3 lineup are great skis. Maybe go up a size for your weight range as you’re skiing a little slower, but I’d try whatever their suggested size is for you before blindly sizing up. It’s always fun to try a new stick

You may be able to remove the rear plastic “horseshoe”, run a webbing strap between it and the boot, and screw through it. Would be nice if you were able to sew it to the top of the heel piece too, but good luck sewing through boot neoprene. It can be done, but that stuff is tough. Maybe the simplest thing would be to drill holes through the old webbing and run something like paracord through the holes for a pull loop

@Drago he's not using his trailer. I bet he’d sell it

Mastercraft store on Ventura Blvd in Woodland Hills. You may want to call and have what you’re looking for there when you get there. Not much in the way of ski specific gear, but super nice guys that mostly wakeboard and surf. I accidentally found the place when working in LA. I was staying at the Holiday Inn Express directly across the street.

That graphic holds a ton of info. Probably too much for someone who has never adjusted the fin. There is an entire book on fin adjusting, “Fin Whispering” that is a good read and makes a lot of sense of that graphic. When you look at that graphic you see that settings like “short and deep” or “long and shallow” are balancing different pluses and minuses of each adjustment setup

I like using clamps, but on the nose of the ski they never want to stay on well. That’s how I figured out you can pull packing tape very tight, and it doesn’t form to the crack (dent) like a more pliable tape (duct tape). It holds the sharp edge line of the ski very well. Where yours is, clamps should work great. Also, wax paper between the epoxy and clamp or tape keeps it from sticking where you don’t want it to stick

Just buy it and post pics already. We all just want to see the boat! B)

Exacto knife to pick out loose material (remove as little as possible to be able to bring back to original shape). epoxy to fill. Clear packing tape pulled tight to retain shape and let cure

Brooks will take care of you. He’s a solid guy who stands behind the products they make. I’ve never had ANY issue Brooks and Radar didn’t jump all over to fix. It does suck to have an equipment issue sideline you though. Understand your frustration. I had boat electronics issues with the nearest dealer about 3 hours away. That one had me hot.

@Woodybc62 most all new Prostar buyers are gonna be 3 Event (or at least 1 of the 3). I can’t speak for the 6.0 but the 5.7 in my old 2014 would hit 43 top end. If you want to foot with it, you may want to reprop it. The prop used on it is optimized for 3 event, of course.

Do you know which Syndicate ski it is? They have made a bunch of different models. Some are more friendly than others. As was said earlier, having the fin set to stock numbers is helpful. It would help for knowing where the front binding needs to be. Are you able to ski it before buying? That really will tell you more than anything else

@Booze that Robins’ lake?

Old skis are like old golf clubs, pretty much worthless. I’d like to find a 1992/93 Jobe 1600 because it was my first comp ski. I’d like to have one of each of the beautiful wood inlay skis: Connelly Comp or Hook, O’Brien Competitor, Terry, and Wiley. So, sentimental, then the pretty ones. I’m not paying much over 50 bucks for any of them. Anything around $100 would be an impulse buy or drunk