Dual Lock

[A_B]

What is everyone using out there? 250 only? 400 on 250? White, black, or clear adhesive?

Is the dual lock for rubber different than dual lock for acrylic? (is that the white vs black)?

Where are the deals at? I bought some of the demo bag mixed with 400 and 250, with white adhesive, and running out setting up my 2 Goode skis to accept my new Sequence plate with Stradas.

I'm coming off years of Animal abuse, so haven't paid too much attention to dual lock debate.

Thanks for any info.

[Boody]

I'm doing 250 only, the clear tape and adhesive. I had the black 250 with foam adhesive which held really good but separated when I took it off. It took me a full day to get all the foam adhesive off the ski. Went to the clear 250 which is very clean and easy to change out.

 

If you don't want it to release because you are on rubber bindings, use 250 on ski and 400 on bindings. That should not release.

[ForrestGump]

I use one strip of 250 per side on the ski and one strip of 400 per side on the plate. It releases when it needs to. While the black does hold very well, it is an absolute MF'er to get off the ski. I like the white backed, personally.

[Ed_Johnson]

I have tried every possible combination over the years and configure mine the same way Shane describes. Prefer Black over Clear because it holds better and longer. It is SIMPLE to remove if you follow this procedure. First, soak one strip at a time in gasoline, let it sit in the sun for 10 minutes, pull the old tape off. It will come apart and leave some residual on the ski. Now soak this residual in gasoline. Pour it on to saturate it. Let it sit in the sun for ten minutes. Now soak again. Then take a razor blade, holding it fairly flat, and remove the residual. Feels like your removeing gum. Should take ten minutes per strip. Use gas on a rag to remove the final filmy residual. When totally done, wash with soap. Before applying new adhesive, rub the area where the new tape goes with alcohol. Set in the sun a few minutes to get the surface warm. Then apply the new strips. Should last at least two years.

 

Goode Luck, ED

[jdarwin]

AB - as to where to buy: http://www.itapestore.com/3mduallock.aspx

 

I found this place 10 years ago and have never been dissapointed. There stock remains fresh due to the volume they handle. From some, you are buying old stock that may not adhere as well.

[A_B]

So SJ3540 in 1" width?

[KM]

I'm using a combination of 250/400 clear. Two strips 250 per side on the ski (4 total on ski). One strip 400 and one strip 250 per side on the plate (4 total on plate). My plate is 29" long, so I need nearly 20 feet of Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing Dual Lock to tape up one ski/binding.

[A_B]

Powershells are mounted on a g10 plate which has dual lock on the bottom in long strips. There are corresponding strips on the ski to mate with. Use a rubber mallet and wooden 1" dowel to tap it into place.

 

I used this several years ago and released to late on an awkward fall causing major ankle sprain.

 

My current project is to mount a Radar Sequence metal plate to a Goode.

I scuff-sanded the paint on the plate and the used rubbIng Alcohol to clean it then applied dual lock. It seems to be sticking, but I am a little worried about the holes and slots in the Sequence plate not providing a good bond to the dual lock.

[A_B]

I used Hardshells before, and now using Stradas, which I should come out of. The dual lock is used so I dont have to drill the ski.

[kstateskier]

Ed J! HAHA here I thought dual lock had provided me all the entertainment i could ever get... until now - your gasoline instructions gave me a nice laugh. I thank you for that!

[lakeo]

anybody know? what does Chet use to attach his front revo rear animal?

[A_B]

Scott - the nylon slip surface on the bottom of the Sequence plate came off in about 30 seconds. Just started one end with a putty knife and it peeled right off. I wondered about that as well, but was super easy.

 

I used 80 grit sandpaper to take off some of the black paint, but not all, and then used rubbing alcohol to clean off. My major concern is the holes in the plate, especially the back where you have the side to side rotating ability for bolting to the ski. I am wondering if water will get under the adhesive at some point and cause a premature ejection from the ski. I have a nice G10 plate from Malibu Skier as my backup. I might try some other bindings, and don't want to drill into the G10 until I know what I will stay with. Also, it will be interesting to see if the metal Sequence plate changes the skiability vs. the G10. The G10 is way more flexible than the metal plate.

[Ed_Johnson]

kstateskier original baller,

 

Do you mind telling me what was so funny about using gas to remove dual lock? Have you ever tried it? It works a lot better than the citrus solution Goode recommends. Doesn't hurt the paint either. I have tried a lot of different solutions over the last 15 years and this works better than anything else. Also, I was trying to be helpful to someone who may have problems removing it. I am looking forward to your knowledgeable recommendation.

[kstateskier]

Ed J you misunderstand my amusement... I certainly have no insight into dual lock removal. Matter of fact the entire idea of velcro-ing myself to a piece of carbon fiber that I'm going to ride across the water at 55+ mph isn't something I can quite wrap my head around.

 

I've just always found humor in the dual lock and watching people beat on their $1000+ skis on a dock with a mallet or hammer to seat their bindings onto the ski! Anyway your gasoline procedure just struck me as funny! It truly made me chuckle, no offense meant towards you in any way. Some people find me using Apple Suave as binding lube funny, it is what it is.

[Boody]

Kstateskier,

 

You sound a lot like me before I tried it. Not saying its the best thing out there but it isn't velco. Also if you ever used a dowel and malet to mount the dual lock you would realize the force used is very little, not quite beating your ski as you say.

 

You may not have noticed but quite a few of us use the dual lock. Don't think its quite as unsafe and damaging to the ski as you seem to portray. Again, maybe something you want to try before looking down your nose at others.

 

Cheers.

[9400]

I'm using Fogmans right now, but at some point, I'll probably be riding the Dual Lock system. It seems to be slowly gaining momentum, and I like the idea of all in or all out.

[Old MS Accout]

Flya750,

I am sure if you call 3M and ask, they will provide you with the information on how much Dual Lock is needed to attach a binding to a waterski so it releases at the right time.

[kstateskier]

again... "not lookin down my nose" at it, there are skiers much much much much better than me that have been using dual lock longer than i've been alive. Its just not for me and I find humor in it.

 

[KM]

@9400. I was a Fogman user and adapted my Fogman boots to a G-10 plate to attach to the ski using 3M Dual Lock. Did so mainly due to the fact that Fogmans mounted to a Goode voids the warranty. There is a Fogman adapter plate available if you prefer to use the Fogman release units without drilling in to the ski.

[Old MS Accout]

OB,

I have tried everything and have always went back to the rubber. I just gave the Stradas a few weeks and they did not work for me.

My issue with DL is the variations in temps and the effect on release. you will not get a dialed in release point when you go from 50F water to 85F water the next week. Water temp, air temp, age of DL all change the way DL reacts to a release point. I have alrady replaced 1 ACL and I want to save the other.

[clemsondave]

And you're saying rubber doesn't react to dramatic temp differences? How much rubber is safe? How tight? What laces? How long before it is worn out? None of this is an exact science. Buddy of mine broke 7 bones in his foot with a rear toe plate.

 

I always say pick what you are most comfortable with and which ever releases the best in your most prominent fall. OTF is my most common fall, so the dual lock works great. I've skied in 50F water and 95F water and not noticed a difference in my DL.

[Old MS Accout]

I agree on the temp diff and effect on rubber but I have the lace option of going looser at that point. DL would not be an issue with me as long as I have a Strada or rubber type boot on top and I could just max out the DL. Each person has their own safety level and after trying the DL-powershell combo, I did not feel safe. I kinda liked the feel of the shell but I didnt ski any better with it. With hockey skates, roller blades and snow ski boots I thought the shells would feel right at home but they never did anything for my skiing.

Scot,

With the Stradas I could not keep my tip down on off side comming out of the ball without always thinking about soft knees and front ball of my foot presure. I loved the comfort and warmth in the cold but after a bunch of sets my skiing was not progressing in my normal spring timing. I ran out of time to stay with them.

[scuppers]

Dual Lock does work, end of story. When you get it right it's the best. Anyone using it that has had a hard fall where it released like it's supposed to can tell you all the energy of the fall disipates in a split second.

[Patmaster]

The best bindings are those you are used to. And the safest are the ones that release when they should, either both feet in or both feet out. I prefer release both feet in. I think the harder the shells the harder they are to replace with different ones (see Jamie) because you get used to the specific way they flex. Nothing new, just my two cents. And yes, Dual Lock works (I use it), but not always as you want. I guess that's you can finally get GOODE with inserts now!