Administrators Horton Posted October 17, 2013 Administrators Share Posted October 17, 2013 Next spring I hope to be putting in a course from scratch in a dry lake. I heard all kinks of complicated ideas about how to set the anchors. Buckets, rebar, bolts, concrete, duct tape, Kilo Kai … .. . I have an idea of how I want to do it but thought you guys might have some different ideas. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller chris_logan Posted October 17, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 17, 2013 Survey and mark buoy locations with spray paint. Then install 30" auger style earth anchors at each buoy location. They will never move and are easy to work with. How the course is attached to the anchor should be an entirely different thread (if you want/need it to be self adjusting). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TylerR Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 I second chris_logan 's comment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thompjs Posted October 17, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 17, 2013 @Horton, what is soil like on bottom? The screw anchors rust after a bit depending on the mineral concentrations, fun to get out later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ral Posted October 17, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 17, 2013 We put a steel rod in the buoy surveyed locations, and then a concrete block with a tube that goes thru it, with around 1 cm protruding from below and 20 cm above. That slides into the rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller TUP Posted October 17, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 17, 2013 We used 1”X 10’ aluminum conduit, we cut it in half and drilled a 5/16” hole about 1.5’ down and put a ¼’x1’piece of rebar. Then we drilled ¼” hole about 2” down and spiced a shot 3/16” stainless cable on the conduit. Then we drove the conduit 4.5’ in the ground, checking the location with the total station as we drove the conduit in the ground. We belled out an area large enough for an 80 pound sack of concrete. Each buoy location is within a couple thousands. We tie a bungee cord to the top eye of the cable for the buoy. Course is 18 years old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Edbrazil Posted October 17, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 17, 2013 Been there, done that. But not many times. Done more yecccch river sites from back on the Tour, that were bordering on the impossible. Dry bottom is almost too easy. Last year, I stupor-vised the dry/nearly dry bottom reset of the Pangaea site in NY state, site of the 2011, 2012, & 2013 Regionals. Can get things super-accurate that way. I sent Horton some more detailed notes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller drew Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 Ed, why are you so cool? My vision of peace on earth would include Ed on a course install mission, one day, one lake at a time, forest gump style... If a man could measure his contribution to the world by the number of courses he has installed (which I believe to be a fair measure), Ed is on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Lucas Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 Anyone thought of digging a post hole and concreting a pole in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller 6balls Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 @OB they did the sliding weight in pipe at skiwatch...worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller gsm_peter Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 We have steel pipes in the mud. Boie, bunge cord, plastic chain. We adjust then easily based on waterlevel. Been stable for plus 30 years even with ice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skiep Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 This is what I did. 2" pvc pipe 5' long , cap one end. install female on other with screw cap with hole drilled in middle for rope. make weight with 1 1/4 metal pipe and fill with the right amount of lead to float buoy correct height. Bury 4' in ground and 1' above. You won't have to adj. buoys anymore! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 18, 2013 Author Administrators Share Posted October 18, 2013 lake level will never be an issue. My question is around the simplest and easiest way to mount the anchors Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller klindy Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 @skiep they look great but I'd have some concerns of the longer term maintenance. The pipe breaking, hole in the cap fouling somehow or even the rope breaking as it rubs against the hole. Great way to install self adjusting buoys however! For a dry lake bottom with low risk of water level changes and a mostly sandy or clay bottom, I would recommend a simple helix utility pole anchor (not mobile home anchors!). Something like this - More details here - http://www.macleanpower.com/products/item.asp?ITEM_ID=2071 I'd use the smallest ones on this list which are 48" long with 4" auger. If anchoring a jump use something bigger at each corner. However I would not auger them in as designed. Instead stake the course accurately. Then at each anchor, measure and restake at least TWO "offset stakes" 36" or 48" (remember the exact distance!) off to the side of the buoy stake. Remove the original stake and using a powered auger drill a 8-12" hole approximately 3+' deep. Place the helix anchor in the hole and measure using a string, measuring tape or pre-cut spacer. Where the two 'strings' cross is the precise location of the anchor. Back fill by hand until only a few inches of the anchor is exposed above the lake bottom. Make sure the anchor doesn't move when backfilling. Putting the "knuckle end" perpendicular to the centerline of the course would give you two or three options to tie the buoy line (usually about 1/2" one way or the other. After all the anchors are installed RESURVEY before filling the lake. In the event the buoy line fails, its easy to retie a new line. There are no sharp ends of rebar or concrete to 'kick' when you locate the anchor. And being galvanized with a very heavy coat of zinc these things will likely last for a very long time with out maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BRY Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 @ Horton "simplest and easiest way to mount the anchors" Survey, mark locations, place concrete with stainless eye or u-bolt and washers in it. Very simple, won't move, won't decay in your or your kids (?) lifetime. Sub buoys with bungee from sub to surface buoys with plastic hooks. Easy, quick to repair. That's how it was done at my place in WA. 20 some years now and still perfect. Re-surveyed by TC two or three years ago, one buoy out 2", all others nuts on. Small adjustment range was built in ours (square u-bolt with indents,never needed) and that one had bumped out, moved it back in and all perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller estrom Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 @Horton, I don't have a clue on any of this, but my comment would be a word of caution about using any lead if this lake is in CA. This state is going berzerk over the use of lead in any fashion, so I could just imagine someone telling you that the course had to be pulled or redone because you've used lead in any way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 18, 2013 Author Administrators Share Posted October 18, 2013 @estrom lead? concrete and stainless Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 Don't use the augers unless you do what KLindy says. My friend just augered them in the dry bottom, and during the first year, many pulled up. He used smaller ones, and that could have been the problem. Don't scrimp, go industrial strength, whatever you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller estrom Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 Someone above mentioned using lead in a weighting system, that's why I brought it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller rawly Posted October 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 18, 2013 Sounds like you are about to become a lake owner. Congrats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller TeamWally Posted October 19, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2013 20 years ago 3 foot by 3 foot forms were surveyed in with stainless eye bolts. So far still RC each time surveyed. Drum truck driven down the lake to fill the forms. Was done on all 3 lakes, Probably a little overkill, but who's keeping track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller LeonL Posted October 19, 2013 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2013 What's the bottom like? Sandy, clay other? If the soil is compatible there's nothing easier than a screw in anchor. If not compatible with screw in, I'd used a concrete form with four PVC pipe sections, about one inch ID formed in. Then drive rebar through the pipes once positioned on the bottom. Weight holds it down and the rebar stops sliding around. Heavy, and hard work, but still relatively easy. Nothing easier than a float course though, however that wasn't the question was it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Hey! You guys are going to have all the TC's standing at off ramps with cardboard signs,,, TC's need love too! Seriously, lots to be said for 'do it once, do it right'... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thor_64 Posted November 1, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 1, 2013 Don't the tubes of the tube and weight style fill w/ silt, etc and work less effectively over time? (assuming they are starting to limit the range the bouys need to move) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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