Putting in a course from scratch in a dry lake

[Horton]

Next spring I hope to be putting in a course from scratch in a dry lake. I heard all kinks of complicated ideas about how to set the anchors. Buckets, rebar, bolts, concrete, duct tape, Kilo Kai … .. .

 

I have an idea of how I want to do it but thought you guys might have some different ideas.

 

[chris_logan]

Survey and mark buoy locations with spray paint. Then install 30" auger style earth anchors at each buoy location. They will never move and are easy to work with. How the course is attached to the anchor should be an entirely different thread (if you want/need it to be self adjusting).

[TylerR]

I second chris_logan 's comment

[thompjs]

@Horton, what is soil like on bottom?

 

The screw anchors rust after a bit depending on the mineral concentrations, fun to get out later.

 

 

[ral]

We put a steel rod in the buoy surveyed locations, and then a concrete block with a tube that goes thru it, with around 1 cm protruding from below and 20 cm above. That slides into the rod.

[TUP]

We used 1”X 10’ aluminum conduit, we cut it in half and drilled a 5/16” hole about 1.5’ down and put a ¼’x1’piece of rebar. Then we drilled ¼” hole about 2” down and spiced a shot 3/16” stainless cable on the conduit. Then we drove the conduit 4.5’ in the ground, checking the location with the total station as we drove the conduit in the ground. We belled out an area large enough for an 80 pound sack of concrete. Each buoy location is within a couple thousands. We tie a bungee cord to the top eye of the cable for the buoy.

Course is 18 years old.

 

[Edbrazil]

Been there, done that. But not many times. Done more yecccch river sites from back on the Tour, that were bordering on the impossible. Dry bottom is almost too easy.

 

Last year, I stupor-vised the dry/nearly dry bottom reset of the Pangaea site in NY state, site of the 2011, 2012, & 2013 Regionals. Can get things super-accurate that way.

 

I sent Horton some more detailed notes.

[drew]

Ed, why are you so cool?

My vision of peace on earth would include Ed on a course install mission, one day, one lake at a time, forest gump style...

If a man could measure his contribution to the world by the number of courses he has installed (which I believe to be a fair measure), Ed is on top.

[Lucas]

Anyone thought of digging a post hole and concreting a pole in?

 

[6balls]

@OB they did the sliding weight in pipe at skiwatch...worked great.

[gsm_peter]

We have steel pipes in the mud.

Boie, bunge cord, plastic chain.

We adjust then easily based on waterlevel.

Been stable for plus 30 years even with ice.

[skiep]

This is what I did. 2" pvc pipe 5' long , cap one end. install female on other with screw cap with hole drilled in middle for rope. make weight with 1 1/4 metal pipe and fill with the right amount of lead to float buoy correct height. Bury 4' in ground and 1' above. You won't have to adj. buoys anymore!

[Horton]

lake level will never be an issue. My question is around the simplest and easiest way to mount the anchors

[klindy]

@skiep they look great but I'd have some concerns of the longer term maintenance. The pipe breaking, hole in the cap fouling somehow or even the rope breaking as it rubs against the hole. Great way to install self adjusting buoys however!

 

For a dry lake bottom with low risk of water level changes and a mostly sandy or clay bottom, I would recommend a simple helix utility pole anchor (not mobile home anchors!). Something like this -

More details here - http://www.macleanpower.com/products/item.asp?ITEM_ID=2071

 

I'd use the smallest ones on this list which are 48" long with 4" auger. If anchoring a jump use something bigger at each corner.

 

However I would not auger them in as designed. Instead stake the course accurately. Then at each anchor, measure and restake at least TWO "offset stakes" 36" or 48" (remember the exact distance!) off to the side of the buoy stake. Remove the original stake and using a powered auger drill a 8-12" hole approximately 3+' deep. Place the helix anchor in the hole and measure using a string, measuring tape or pre-cut spacer. Where the two 'strings' cross is the precise location of the anchor. Back fill by hand until only a few inches of the anchor is exposed above the lake bottom. Make sure the anchor doesn't move when backfilling. Putting the "knuckle end" perpendicular to the centerline of the course would give you two or three options to tie the buoy line (usually about 1/2" one way or the other.

 

After all the anchors are installed RESURVEY before filling the lake. In the event the buoy line fails, its easy to retie a new line. There are no sharp ends of rebar or concrete to 'kick' when you locate the anchor. And being galvanized with a very heavy coat of zinc these things will likely last for a very long time with out maintenance.

 

 

[BRY]

@ Horton "simplest and easiest way to mount the anchors"

Survey, mark locations, place concrete with stainless eye or u-bolt and washers in it. Very simple, won't move, won't decay in your or your kids (?) lifetime. Sub buoys with bungee from sub to surface buoys with plastic hooks. Easy, quick to repair.

That's how it was done at my place in WA. 20 some years now and still perfect. Re-surveyed by TC two or three years ago, one buoy out 2", all others nuts on. Small adjustment range was built in ours (square u-bolt with indents,never needed) and that one had bumped out, moved it back in and all perfect.

[estrom]

@Horton, I don't have a clue on any of this, but my comment would be a word of caution about using any lead if this lake is in CA. This state is going berzerk over the use of lead in any fashion, so I could just imagine someone telling you that the course had to be pulled or redone because you've used lead in any way.

[Horton]

@estrom lead? concrete and stainless

[A_B]

Don't use the augers unless you do what KLindy says. My friend just augered them in the dry bottom, and during the first year, many pulled up. He used smaller ones, and that could have been the problem. Don't scrimp, go industrial strength, whatever you do.

[estrom]

Someone above mentioned using lead in a weighting system, that's why I brought it up.

 

[rawly]

Sounds like you are about to become a lake owner. Congrats

[TeamWally]

20 years ago 3 foot by 3 foot forms were surveyed in with stainless eye bolts. So far still RC each time surveyed. Drum truck driven down the lake to fill the forms. Was done on all 3 lakes, Probably a little overkill, but who's keeping track.

[LeonL]

What's the bottom like? Sandy, clay other? If the soil is compatible there's nothing easier than a screw in anchor. If not compatible with screw in, I'd used a concrete form with four PVC pipe sections, about one inch ID formed in. Then drive rebar through the pipes once positioned on the bottom. Weight holds it down and the rebar stops sliding around. Heavy, and hard work, but still relatively easy. Nothing easier than a float course though, however that wasn't the question was it.

[Dusty]

Hey! You guys are going to have all the TC's standing at off ramps with cardboard signs,,, TC's need love too! Seriously, lots to be said for 'do it once, do it right'...

[thor_64]

Don't the tubes of the tube and weight style fill w/ silt, etc and work less effectively over time? (assuming they are starting to limit the range the bouys need to move)