Trouble getting sn 200 on trailer

[fpjl]

I'm used to driving a sn 196 onto the trailer. Works well with different ramp inclines. The sn 200 has the traditional roller and strap. Because of the ramp angle if you try to float the boat on the trailer the bow comes in below the roller. Driving the boat on the trailer is wearing out the gelcoat. Any ideas. Anyone modify the front roller on their trailer?

[klindy]

Feed the strap thru the roller (from bottom over the top). Get the boat close, hook up and winch the slack out of the strap.

[dave2ball]

try submerging the trailer and getting the whole bunk wet. Pull the trailer up to we enough to where the bow goes over the bow roller. You may be able to float the majority on and then gently power to boat up into the bow stop. With the bunks being wet you should not have alot of wear on the gel coat if you wet the bunks. It a killer when the bunks are dry.

[ForrestGump]

On some, we've also spaced the center bunks at the front up to take some of that pressure off the chine area where it slides on the outer bunks.

[Jody_Seal]

Do you have one of the new 2014 trailers?

 

[fpjl]

No it is a 2010. Thanks for the comments!

[BlueSki]

We have a steep ramp where we ski, although I have seen the spray chine damage from ramps with less grade. Regardless of angle, powering up the trailer against the chines is just asking for damage. What the trailers really need is a small crane. Our process, which does not involve a crane but seemed to work fairly well last year, is as follows. It requires two people, but three is easier because the guy driving the truck can stay put:

 

1. Wet bunks - Soak the whole damn trailer, we make sure the bunk carpet is wet.

2. Position trailer - Pull the trailer out of the water a little bit, but with the fenders still well under water. The front roller at this point is higher than the bow, but the bow is so low when the boat is still floating that this is expected. Hopefully the guideposts on the trailer are high enough to come above the rub rail, but ours were not, so we put on new posts.

3. Load boat - Bring the boat onto the trailer gently to the point where you are making some contact with the bunks and do not power up. You may have to keep the boat in gear to prevent drifting backwards.

4. Hook up - Hook the tow strap on to the bow eyelet and take the slack out of the strap. The guy with the monkey-like climbing ability gets this job because he will likely climb onto the trailer over water. This is a good job for my son.

5. Pull up and Tighten up - Keep the boat running. Pull the trailer out of the water enough that bow raises, the boat and trailer are essentially parallel and the chines are above the bunks. There will be two feet or so of winch strap to crank up. If the nose of the boat has risen to the point where you can see a gap between the chines and the bunks, you can crank on the winch and get some help from the boat without worrying about the chines.

 

It is a PITA, but the wake is worth it.

[oldjeep]

Silly question - can't you just back the trailer in far enough that the bow roller is lower than the bow - crank it tight with the whole boat floating and pull it out? Unless there are rollers rocking the boat sideways, why would you care if it was touching the bunks?

 

We've got one ramp that we used with our I/O which is like falling off a cliff. The only thing ever touching the trailer when launching or retrieving was the bow against the roller.

[Jody_Seal]

The last two trailers I went with the Ramlin tandem. They sit a little lower to the ground and seem to load better then the single axle trailer. OB has the right solution with modifying the bunk cut outs and slanting them. if possible try and load the boat in a bit deeper and don't try and drive it on, sorry to say those day's with the 200 are in the past

[countymountie]

I have a 2010 200 on a single axle Phoenix. Originally the trailer had 4 bunks, two in the back and two long one's for the front. Phoenix did a retro fit to the current six bunks that you see. I was also advised to put the trailer in deeper. So far, no issues. The odd thing is, once the boat is on the trailer, the two middle bunks do not make contact with the boat. The middle bunks were added as a means to guide the boat onto the front bunks and prevent hangup issues.

[phntmski]

To revisit this discussion. I recently purchased a 200 with a Roadrunner trailer that acts like the trailer described above. When I load the bow dips under the bow roller and when I launch the chines snag on the forward edge of the front bunks. I was thinking about modifying the trailer to make the front bunks longer so the chines will land on the top surface of the bunk and mounting a V stop in place of the roller so the bow won't have anything to be under.

I understand without the roller lifting the bow it might ride lower. Don't know if that is bad or not. It might help the launch.

Has anyone ever tried something like this?

[Jmoski]

Not sure if this is possible or will help - but can you modify your trailer to have crash pad stops instead of the roller?

 

My trailers have always had the bow stops, which allow the nose of the boat to rise up when pulling the boat out on steep ramps.

[BraceMaker]

Might have some photos from when I had that old MC trailer with the bow strap and no winch.

 

I basically found that I needed a keel roller between the bunks positioned where it would lift the bow up as the boat comes on. Otherwise the bunks wouldnt lift the bow high enough to clear the V bunk. Roller would push it up in time regardless of depth.

 

I got some square channel a keel roller and some big u bolts and tweaked the position then had a weld shop use that as a mock up to weld in the roller on a cross member.

 

 

[WoodySkier]

I think some are making this way more difficult than it needs to be. Just stand on the swim platform and have someone else winch it in if the angle of the ramp is too steep. I have a 2015 200 on a Phoenix trailer and I’ve never really had an issue with the ramps I use, the roller is just under the bow usually.

[phntmski]

Would like to he able to safely and efficiently load/launch alone if necessary but I believe those days have passed. The boat will spend most of its time on a lift but I'm used to bringing my boat home for the winter and maintenance. We'll see. Thx for the input.

 

[skiinxs]

Roller between the front of the two front bunks works great on the Heritage trailer. (They added at my suggestion). On normal (not step) ramps you don't engage the roller, but on a steep ramp the keel rolls up on the roller. I would try to add this to your trailer.

[A_B]

There is probably an old thread on bunks that I think I outlined that when I replaced the bunks a year or two ago, I cut angles on the wood that would help reduce wear and tear on the carpet and the hull. I just set my circular saw on an angle and ripped the edge. Then block sanded with rough sandpaper to smooth the edges out. The carpet seems to be holding up better and not getting worn off on the edge like the original setup. So this I assume is helping the gel coat as well.

 

You could always spray the front section with some silicone.

 

I put my trailer in the water until the bunks are submerged, then pull out until the genders are a few inches above the water. That’s for my ramp, but that’s all I really launch at.

[Wayne]

I don’t think this addresses the original issue of the thread but if you want to make your trailer bunks have less friction, try a product called “Slydz-On”. Overtons used to carry it, now I get it off amazon.

 

Word of caution, it works too good. If you don’t have anything holding the boat on the trailer it will slide right off, even when they are dry.

[oldjeep]

Liquid rollers is the bunk spray that I used - Once. Stuff is scary slippery, if you use it make sure you have a safety chain in the front and use your transom straps.

 

 

[PatM]

I have a Boatmate trailer under my 2018 200 and it is taking the gel coat off the front chin. I float it on as best as possible but it is still doing damage. The solution is to get the bunks off the front chin. I would be interest to see if this is what @BoneHead experienced with his trailer and if you have pictures of how you moved the bunks off the chin if this was the case.

Also I am very interested in a Phoenix trailer as a possible replacement if this doesn't get sorted out with the Boatmate trailer. What is the experiences with the Phoenix trailer for those who have them with the 200?

And as a side note I have been trying to resolve this issue all summer with Boatmate and they do not return phone calls and only periodically return emails. They have not offered a solution to the issue. I am at a loss with this company-very poor customer service.

[oldjeep]

Odd. Boatmate typically has great service. They send out parts with no questions asked and return emails within hours. Phoinix is a pretty junky trailer by comparison. Have pictures of your issue?

[PatM]

 

[oldjeep]

Not having a nautique it that where they rest or something they rub on as they pass?

 

Only 2 sets of bunks, not 3?

[PatM]

@oldjeep you can see where the problem is clearly in this trailer and I know I am not alone on this issue. Boatmate has done nothing other than send me more carpet on the issue. I am fed up with this company. I have 40 hours on this boat. Used the trailer twice since delivery. I just put the boat on the trailer today for the winter. A couple of email responses are not helpful. I need a real solution to a real problem not a couple of parts. They need to solve the bunk issue and they are not willing to back it.

[PatM]

Only two sets of bunks and this is considered their "Pro" package trailer

[oldjeep]

Weird, the standard boatmate malibu trailers have 3 sets. But again, is that where the marks on the hull rest or is it from rubbing accross that location on the way to the final resting spot? Or asked in another way does the bow of the boat wind up under your bow roller when loading?

[oldjeep]

This s a 2012 boatmate for a vtx, response trailers ive seen were the same. Nautique has always had some pretty goofy trailers, I'd try dealing with them and your dealer if the trailer came with boat as they would have been the ones to spec the bunk design.

 

[PatM]

That is where it rests. The bunks sit right under the chin's edge and I try to float it on a completely submerged trailer to avoid problems loading. I have the luxury of being able to do this while I know a lot of other 200 owners with this trailer can't float it on. I don't have a bow roller I have a nose catch (which I like very much) and sorry to derail this post from its original intent. I saw this post and it just got me going on this issue.

By the way my ski partner has a 2014 TXI with a Boatmate trailer (with 3 sets of bunks) that I think is awesome. That is why I was very happy to see that my 200 had a Boatmate when I got from the dealer this June. Now not so happy. Sorry for my rant but it has been building for sometime

[oldjeep]

I understand your frustration, just be aware that your trailer is either as nautique specified it or has some bunk mounting issues. See if you can get boatmate factory specs on bunk measurements, if they match yours then your beef is with nautique, not boatmate.

[phntmski]

The problem with my Roadrunner is similar to Pat M's except my chines don't rest on the bunks, they're suspended in front of the front bunks. When I launch the boat can slide down until the chines hang on the leading edge of the bunks and will hold the boat until I go deeper with the trailer. The only way to clear is to float it off. I've only launched and loaded once so I don't have a lot of experience with this combination but I've heard from others how rough it is and now I see it. I'm getting a crash course. Was also thinking about a Phoenix trailer but am hoping to find a modification that will make it more functional, something like what A_B and skiinxs have mentioned. Anything to avoid damage to the hull.

 

And as a way of doing things I'd rather not sink my truck axle to release the boat. Trailer has 225 75D15s on it now. What about putting on some 225 70R15s? That would lower the whole thing a little. Seems like I saw an alternate, smaller tire listed in a manual somewhere.

 

PITA but it's such a great boat and I want to take care of it.

 

[HighAltitude]

I have the same issue. Even worse because I use my Subaru Outback to pull it out and that damn car can't back up too far or water comes in the back. I'll probably grab my neighbors truck and really sink the trailer to avoid the problem. Luckily I only pull it once a year and it's a quarter mile drive.

[BraceMaker]

Id place one of these;

 

 

 

https://us.v-cdn.net/5017617/uploads/editor/ja/rxhs0izysy9p.jpeg

 

Right between those bunks. Just pressured into the hull. Then with boat off raise it .25" and try it.

 

 

 

[phntmski]

 

 

Might have to be one of these to protect skegs.

[skiinxs]

This is the solution that works well on the Heritage trailers. It is actually adjustable so you can put a floor jack under it and raise it a little higher than normal if you have a crazy steep ramp to use on a particular day. Even when adjusted as in the photo where it is not carrying any of the weight when flat on the trailer, as the stern of the boat is separated from the trailer as on a steep ramp the weight then transfers to the roller and keeps the spray deflectors from grinding on the bunks. This is a very simple solution that all of the other 200 (and now 2019 Ski Nautique) trailers could use. (By the way this is a recent photo from one of my promo's that I sold a few years ago and the keel is just dirty, not damaged)

 

 

[skiinxs]

By the way, the boat and trailer above are about five years old. Neither the carpet on the trailer or the spray deflectors on the boat have a mark on them.

[phntmski]

This is all good stuff. Ya'll have given me hope.

[BraceMaker]

@skiinxs I really like that approach, when I yad to move my roller Id have to relaunch the boat, make a move and retrieve it.

 

Could fab this part as a premade add on with u bolts and just clamp to existing cross member.

[oldjeep]

Or add the front bunks that should be on the trailer.

[acmx]

@"Pat M" my 2016 SN200 Boatmate trailer appears to have a different bunk set up than yours.

[oldjeep]

@acmx - that has to be the first inboard trailer I've ever seen with roller trailer style short side bunks rather than guide poles. Doesn't even look like a boatmate trailer in a variety of other ways

 

[BraceMaker]

That style of bunks destroys your graphics quick. But the tighter V of those bunks coming together would do the same as the keel roller and raise the bow up on loading.

[ForrestGump]

What we found on the Boatmates in the 2012-2014 time frame was that front inside set of bunks was too low at the front. It would cause the chines to hit on the back of the inside and outside bunk and put wear on the chine edges AND cause us to replace the bunk carpet in months. Doing nothing but raising the front of the inside front bunks with 3/4" spacer made everything about 1000% better.

[PatM]

@oldjeep I wish I had that trailer. I have the new version that was suppose to be better than the one @BoneHead is talking about. I would rather deal with the problem that trailer posed and the easy fix that BoneHead suggested. I believe my fix will be to actually cut the middle two bunks back to the next cross bar and install an additional set of bunks inside of that to give support along with a roller like @BraceMaker suggested.

Also add guide polls because I have the same side bunks as @oldjeep has in that picture

[acmx]

@oldjeep Boatmate makes the 200 trailer two ways, like mine (Pro model) with low guides, front crash stop, and shallow water bunks. (Standard) with poles and no crash stop. I thought the low guides would be a problem but so far no issues.

[PatM]

@acmx Yes they changed the bunks because they said the chins got hung up when launching the boat. They created a worse problem with the new bunking. I know what I would do to fix the old problem and it would be fairly easy. I asked to get mine rebunked or trade in for the one you have - so far crickets.

[ToddA]

Out of curiosity...what is the general consensus on why trailer companies seem to have gone away from the bow crash pad design, and have gone with the front roller design? I have never had any issues with our old DHM with bow crash pads on steep or shallow ramps with our '99.

[oldjeep]

@ToddA crash pads are mostly a nautique oddity. I wouldn't even consider a trailer that had one.

[thager]

If you have a low powered/2 wheel tow vehicle, crash pads are the way to go. Use the boat to start the roll and away you go! I had a Ford Courier I used to pull my boats for many years.

[igkya]

@oldjeep Why?

[oldjeep]

Because if i manage to hit the bow roller or crashpad loading then i have screwed up. There is no way you shound need a crashpad unless to put trailer too deep or if you powerload boats onto the trailer.

 

Fwiw, my current truck is the first 4wd tow vehicle I've ever owned. It does have about 400hp, so power isn't an issue. Seriously doubt it will ever get put in 4wd, and certainly not for pulling a 6k trailer/boat out with.