Jump to content

New hardshell need some suggestion


cacman
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Baller
@aupatking if it feels forced you should probably back it off a bit. I tried a few different angles when I first did mine and I tried one that was close to the end of my range of motion, and it did not go well. You want it to be about as far forward as it can be but still be comfortable.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@cacman I used 1/8” thermoplastic material that is sold and used for orthopedic splints.

- I made a template to make a rough cut-out. - Placed in hot water to soften

- Formed on boot in forward flexed position

- Cooled using ice cube

- Trimmed and finished

- Attracted with (2) 3/16 large head rivets.

About 20 min project

 

mnnpwoie7x6c.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

Agree @cacman. Those stoppers might as well not be there at all.

 

The plastic on the cuff still flexes and moves WAY too much. The only way to do it right is a similar fashion to @AdamCord to fix the position.

 

I have two short bars, one on each side of the achilles to support the rearward load. Works amazing, and fully adjustable/tune-able to preference.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

I’m curious too, as @Wish asked, should just anyone try this? It seems that anyone skiing the course would benefit from a better position. I don’t see any reason a free skier would try it, but I also don’t know why a free skier would be in a Reflex style setup anyway. It also doesn’t “appear” to affect the safety, adversely.

@adamhcaldwell you say the blocks still add too much flex. What about a semirigid, plastic bar, like this?

fel77mnfobmk.jpg

I also was thinking about the original problem in the thread. Did you move the boots independently of one another? You said you couldn’t turn offside, and your rear was as close to the front as possible. I’ve found on several skis, with certain hard shell setups, exaggerating the gap between front and back allowed for an easy offside turn. At least worth a try.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@aupatking That will likely break. Although the plastics is better then aluminum.

 

IMO, The ideal setup is to put a plastic bar on each side of the achilies so there is dual support.

 

Cord also has the forward part of the cuff pinned to the lower shell which takes some of the load. The black plastic is a little stiffer then the white cuff or the supershell so it seems to work okay with the single bar on the back.

 

I will try to get a picture of my setup. I use two section of .125 G10 material.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@gavski pick up a large protractor at Lowes or Home Depot, next to the levels and framing squares. Line it up with the back of the boot from the top of the heel on up. A million yrs ago I destroyed my ankle and thought going to hardshells was the Answer in my comeback. Absolutely hated them. Eventually "measured" my old rubber binding, copied that angle on the hardshels, and screw-riveted the upper cuff to the lower (like alpine race boots). Much better (though ultimately still hated them, but...) idpl6a8udgxl.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anybody know if a snow ski setup has been tried? Basically, just mounting two hardshells on a metal or hardened plastic plate. The plate simply gets inserted into a snow ski binding which is mounted on the ski. It seems so simple that I figure it must have been tried and discarded for some reason. I have tons of old ski (snow and water) so I thought I might try it this spring.

 

Also, has anybody just bought Velcro and mounted a plate to their ski like the Goode system instead of buying a whole new binding system? I would like to try the Velcro release but don't want to buy a whole setup to find out I really don't like it. I prefer a system that keeps both of the boots together as 90% of my falls result in a twisting moment and I tore up some ligaments in my front foot when only my back foot released and the ski started to helicopter. Right now I have a Radar plate with two old RS-1 bindings on it I thought I could mount via Velcro to an old ski. Again, it seems so simple I wonder why something like this hasn't been mentioned more.

 

Thanks in advance for any replies! -Marc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@HighAltitude I have. Velcro attached to a plate works fine if the plate is G10 but aluminum plates will bend. Finding the right mix is an art that realistically needs a few tries. My aluminum plates bent on the first go. I got tolerable service out of the G10 plates. Never really got the velcro dialed to my satisfaction as a release but had a good experience with the process. I also used the double boot and agree with both in being safer.

 

I have also tried snow ski boots. Too stiff, too heavy, too high off the ski, not waterproof - not close on so many levels. I never tried Scott boots but many were used in waterskiing. Some of the backcountry boots might work but there are enough good waterski options.

 

I converted rollerblade boots for waterskiing. Intuition liners made them work really well.

 

Snow ski bindings have different release parameters. So the stock bindings won't work. The MOB binding adapted some snow ski tech for an excellent binding. But they are a bit heavy.

 

@adamhcaldwell I used an old rubber heel piece to pin the cuff forward. Great support that didn't stress the shell. Make sure it gets some curve to make it stiff enough. I ended up with boots that I could pin through plastic overlap but I had to use oversized holes with rubber grommets to keep from tearing the plastic.

 

Fun playing with boot tech. You can do better than stock.

 

Eric

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@HighAltitude The Velcro plate will not release in a “crushing” type fall where the pressure is on the front boot before the rear. A pretty easy fall, in most systems can break ankles or legs in a system relying on all of the pressure to be on the rear for it to release.

That is my personal experience, and from a break I saw happen. It’s anecdotal, I know, but those two were consistent with that theory.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@HighAltitude your description is close to the MOB design. Both feet on one plate is not the safest release.

 

@eleeski the latest MOB system with Hardshell boot weighs essentially the same as a T-factor or Animal rubber boot.

Mike's Overall Binding

USA Water Ski  Senior Judge   Senior Driver   Senior Tech Controller

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
@HighAltitude because in certain falls you can over stress one foot/ankle/achilles before the other allows the plate to release. This occurs particularly in an out the front fall where the front foot is still creating pressure against the ski, but the rear foot is trying to release from the heel. This can sprain or tear the Achilles' tendon.

Mike's Overall Binding

USA Water Ski  Senior Judge   Senior Driver   Senior Tech Controller

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...