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Nothings Shocking


Keith_Menard
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I have a 4 foot one. I am pretty bad about actually using it though. Especially if I have the trakker mounted. I get tired of fussing with it changing lines. All of my ski partners have their own tow lines they use. So we change lines after every set - it quickly becomes a PITA.
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3' shock tube from a wake boat application. Long enough to make a difference and short enough that it does not sag and degrade like the longer shock tubes. Has a huge opening so quick and easy to change out ropes. I watched my buddy put a rope around his wife's neck as she drove. Luckily only miner injuries. That day I was sold. Never been without one.
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We use one on my boat. It is an older school one I bought from a friend. I think it is a 4'. 2 reasons - safety and I got a rope burn on my engine cover of my new boat. It was all taken care of at the dealer but still a pain to bring it in to get fixed.
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I use a 4’ no reason other than I’d assume it’s safer than 2’. I always use it when my 2 yo son is in the boat. My ski partners don’t use one unless we use my boat. I will admit it’s a major PITA. You’d think somebody could make an easier design. Did watch my ski partner launch a rope into boat, around drivers neck and around throttle so I know accidents happen. Plus I’m still using PP with magnets and Masterline tubes have the time charts printed on them so I can verify, big plus.
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The original idea for the shock tube was to span the distance from the top of the pylon to the windshield. That distance is about 4 feet in the big 3 modern ski boats. Thinking was to keep that loop of rope out of the driver and passenger seat area. The 2 foot shock tube came about with the rope switch and half meter rope that connected the rope switch to the pylon when we were using perfect pass. I don’t understand how the short tube offers much protection.
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@bigskieridaho I just keep a rope with a small carabiner on it, leave the tube on the pylon loop and pull the rope through, clip the carabiner onto the new one and pull it back. I also don't change the mainline very often in the boat, but to switch to trick skiing that'll do.

 

I think some people just use the 2' to make it easier to hand a rope off to the boat crew at the starting dock.

 

Bring back the saf-t-top?

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@tdusin, I am in full agreement with you. As a driver I prefer to see the 4' rope recoil device in the boat over the 2' units. I am not sure how it could be tested but in my experience I have seen the short 2' tubes actually propagate rope recoil rather then dampen it.

My preference is the small dia 4' shock tubes. Again my preference and it only comes from my limited time and experience behind the wheel!

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@Jody_Seal : interesting comment on rope recoil with a short tube. I would expect the soft padding would absorb the rope energy regardless of length, just different amount of energy absorption based on overall length. I guess the one caveat would be if the rope coil frequency is such that a node exists right at 2' might be an issue.
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@Jody_Seal , you drive a lot more than me so I respect your experience. 4' is best.

 

But I agree with @DW , any rope condom ("shock tube", how PC - we know what it's really called) will dissipate a lot of energy. I never had a recoil hit me with the switch rope condom.

 

I'm sometimes too lazy when someone brings their own rope. A 2' condom might be easy enough to thread that I'd use it more.

 

Pipe insulation and duct tape make a cheap rope condom in a pinch. No excuses not to use something.

 

Trick ropes don't tend to recoil. We can pop the handle with lots of force. Maybe it's the stiffness of the rope. Possibly it's that most trickers have a section of slalom rope at the connection to the pylon and the difference in stiffness dissipates the recoil. (Always use a section of thicker rope to connect to the release. It saves the expensive spectra from the chafing of the release and the thin spectra doesn't release as reliably from a rope release or a Robbins release.)

 

Eric

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