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Ski Climbing ?


Stevie Boy
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So I know there is going to be a load of comments about technique and personal preferences for ski manufacturers, but among the top skis, is there any, that are particulary good at staying down at the end of a turn, can a ski that is fast leave you behind putting you on the back of the ski, when I shorten the line my ski seems to climb especially on the offside, I know some of it is technique, I try to not rock and roll but it can happen
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First thing I would do would be review your fin and binding settings. That perfect ski will still wheelie if there's too much fin for your skill level at offside.
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My HO A3 was doing just that. I had to take a year off because of a shoulder injury and J.O.B. (Just Over Broke). When I started again this season my ski was doing the wheelie all the time. It never did that before. I thought it was all me but I also now weigh 20+lbs more. I moved the binding 1/8-1/4" forward (one notch) and BOOM no more wheelies and more acceleration, speed, and turns better than ever. TOTAL CONTROL~~~> Just my $.02 worth
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@Brewski with all due respect - I very much do not recommend bindings forward as a generic solution for tip rise. Generally speaking tip rise after Apex is caused by too much fin area and or some significant skier error
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@"Pat M" @Brewski if you are looking at how the Reflex plate sits on the D3 and think that's an indicator of how far forward the binding is you are almost in Panda territory
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@"Pat M" Notice your front hoop is in front of the front slot and you can see another row of inserts on your ski.

 

Notice how freddy's front hoop is even with a row of slots and that his front screws are in the row behind. Both of you have the toe of your boot roughly in the same spot - he just has a plate that has a longer front to it with another slot.

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Ok I is confused.

Are the graphics in the same place or not? If they are, then I don't see how anyone can conclude that the front loops are anywhere near to the same place on the two setups.

 

My curiosity is building as to which group of us are the pandas.

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I'll say this once. The graphic sheet could be different. The ski sizes could be different. The boot sizes could be different. It's very likely that where that boot sits on that plate is also different. So to look at two skis of the same model and pictures of where the binding sit on the graphics is kind of like arguing that the Earth is flat. I mean really the earth looks flat to me.
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I skied with Freddie last fall when he was on the NRG and before officially working with D3. As is public knowledge he tried a bunch of skis last year. I asked about some other skis that perhaps he'd want to try and he told me he couldn't get his bindings to fit on some stock insert patterns from some OEMs. Take that for what it is - likely he uses off the grid settings, which should come as no surprise since the guy's skills are off the bloody grid!
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@Horton In your most recent post (that's back on the original topic), I assume you mean doesn't cure tip rise?

 

I 100% disagree with your flat earth analogy. What I'm doing is science: Observe, hypothesize, try to find a way to test. What you are doing is faith: There are too many factors to consider so it's probably the same.

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@Horton Not sure what Panda territory is but when watching the worlds everyone here commented on and brought to my attention on how far forward @FWinter 's boots were on his ski. @Drago flash camera causes that color difference. (maybe LOL).

Every ski I have owned I have been 1 hole forward. The A3 felt fine in the center holes when I was at 170-175lbs. Now at 195 I felt out of control. Moved the binding forward after reading all the post on A3's and found that several peeps moved to 29.5-30" I am @ 29.5" and the ski feels better than ever. Did not believe that 1/2" could make that much difference. But on my custom boots my heel is dead on the measurement where rubber or other bindings have a bit of space making the foot actually a little more forward on the ski. Not sure how much. Depends on the boots.

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My flippant disregard for the conclusions is largely based on my experience that where that boot sits on the plate in relation to the binding holes maybe extremely variable plus Freddy is on the good boot (& plate?) where is the other photo in this thread is the Reflex version.
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When I was a Nationals I talked to Creed Kidder about the new NRG R1 and he said it is not like the previous NRG it does not like the boots pushed forward. The R1 has a different rocker and concave etc. So what Freddie is on who knows
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Freddie is on a size 12 reflex plate, @"Pat M" your plate is size 4-10 and it’s at least 1” shorter. Yes it could be an indicator when you see the plate put all the way forward but I’ve seen it many times to have to put the plate at the last hole to meet factory specs.

Also I’ve seen many people skiing on D3s that put their binding a lot forward than factory and ski very successfully. On my Goode factory is the most forward I can go, further forward and I don’t like the ski. I guess skis with less rocker lets you move forward easier.

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@"Pat M" I looked at the photos more closely, I was told that Freddie is on a 66”, if you are on a 66” then clearly graphics on the two skis don’t match the insert position. Also yours must be later production with the extra set of inserts. Still maybe Freddie’s boot is way forward.
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@BraceMaker how can I explain to you that how the boot Hardware mounts to the plate is not necessarily the same. What matters is where the skiers ankle bone sits on the ski. In the case of different brands of hard shell bindings what hole you use put your ankle bone in different places.
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