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2014 SN Exhaust Manifold Leak


lakeside7455
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Did anyone have this same issue? A newer boat, winterized and kept in an insulated garage in the winter, so only 6 yrs old and have a micro crack in the cast manifold, but enough to leak water, it is on the left side and starter is on same side under it, but not exactly right under it. Is there any easy fix, JB Weld, Quick Steel to try, or are they worthless and I should just replace the entire manifold, gaskets, bolts, O2 sensors, etc, expensive and some work involved. My older 96 Nautique never had this issue for 20 years. It is a CES Cantium exhaust manifold. Any advice is appreciated if anyone experienced same thing and any success or outcomes.
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I have a 2014 with 500 hours and had the exact same issue 3 weeks ago. It is in Arizona and has never been exposed to freezing temperatures. Since the crack was between the outer water area and the inner exhaust area, there was no way to access it to try to apply any repair. The only way we were able to confirm the leak was to remove the manifold and pressure test the water area which led to water coming out of the exhaust port. I found no other option except to buy a new manifold for roughly $700. You can reuse all of the sensors and most importantly the $1000 catalytic converter that inserts into the manifold. Mechanically, it is a pretty easy fix.

 

On a side note, the vendor mentioned that PCM had changed the part number from R028025 to R028025A to denote that they had changed the chemistry of the casting because the earlier ones were prone to cracking. Fortunately I had the other side replaced under warranty when it cracked 3 years ago.

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After re-reading your original post, it sounds like your manifold is leaking externally rather than internally. Your concern is whether it drips water on your starter. A budget conscious way to approach it might be to grind out the crack and JB Weld it as you suggested. Years ago, I had a cast iron manifold crack from freezing. We tried to weld it, but even an experienced welder will have trouble with the pot metal in a casting. The JB weld might not work, but it doesn’t seem like you have much to lose by trying. You might not be able to get a new one soon since PCM shut down a couple weeks ago because of the virus. If it doesn’t work, I got a pretty good help from myinboardmarine.com. Hope that helps.
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  • Baller
I unfortunately, cracked the block on my MOOMBA. I used JB to seal it up and it usually lasted for a couple of months at a time, cheap fix! Clean it really well and V out the crack with a grinder if possible or at least sand the paint off down to bare metal. The JB I used was a 2 part putty type and not the liquid. Again cheap and short term, might be the easiest route.
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  • Baller_
Another product to try is Permatex Ultra Copper. Good to 600 degrees and may better withstand expansion & contraction vs JB Weld. I have a backflow valve on the main water line of my clinic. One of the valves on the line developed a hairline crack and a slow drip. After shutting off the water, I heated it up with a hair dryer, then applied the permatex and you could see it being drawn in to the crack as it cooled. That repair is still good at least 3 years later. I also used this product on the gaskets on my '85 Nissan catalytic converter several years ago. one needs to be repaired again, but considering the heat they are being exposed to, I have been happy with how long the repair lasted.
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I am trying the jb weld extreme heat. It’s hot from slow trip around lake. I used file, wire brush, and hand grinder on it to get to bare metal. It seems to be just a tiny 1/4 inch micro crack. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and wiped it off good. So let’s see if this JB extreme heat will work. It’s rated to 2400 degrees. One last try before buying replacement manifold and gaskets.
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@thager

I would have to see those from really close before buying from fleabay...

Who would change them if not leaking?

Could be a quick grind,JB,sand and paint job...

My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance!

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@Andre Just saying there may be more options. If one side was bad a lot of people will buy a full set. Other side might be good. I also know of a guy that pulled new and put new old style manifolds on his. Another option might be to brase depending on what they are made of. As always, buyer beware. Check into anything, ask questions, etc.
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Let me just restate that I live in Arizona, my boat is never subjected to freezing, and I have now had one manifold replaced under warranty and the other cracked 2 years after the warranty expired. Every neighbor that has the Catanium manifolds has replaced both.

 

Knowing that the original casting formula is going to crack eventually, I wouldn’t pay half price for one that might last a hundred more hours. Unless you know you are selling your boat in the next year or so and really want to blindside the buyer, I would give in to PCM’s extortion and pay the $700 for what they should have made properly in the first place. Now that they changed the material for the new castings, they should last the life of the boat. Don’t you trust them?

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I called PCM and they agreed to cover the manifold under warranty if the dealer installed it. That seems very fair to me. The next issue is the dealer isn't doing any maintenance work due to Covid 19, so they said it's looking like after Memorial Day to bring it in, then getting part shipped in, then the work, so guess I'm out until mid June, but happy they are covering it under warranty. Now knowing of this issue, I really want the new improved manifold, so will just have to wait it out, but best for long run. Will have to bum ski runs until its back. Now worried about the opposite side, but not leaking now, so will have to keep an eye on it, may have to replace it down the road from the sounds of it.
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