MacsBrendella23 Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 So, we took my 93 ski brendella out today after redoing the entire steering system to test it out. The steering was great, but I noticed my 351 PCM was super hesitant. I put it in gear and it died right after launching. It didn’t start running clean until I got it fully warmed up but even then it was lagging a bit. I was thinking a fuel filter then cleaning up some lines and adding seafoam to the tank. I dont know how long this fuel has been in the boat but I’d suspect awhile. Last owner didn’t use the boat much and the fuel had to have been in there at least over winter. Full tank too. Just curious what I should diagnose and what to replace first then move forward. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Rednucleus Posted May 24, 2021 Baller_ Share Posted May 24, 2021 When was the last time it had new plugs, cap, rotor & plug wires?? If you can't answer that, please do that service 1st! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller S1Pitts Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 Dump in a can of SeaFoam into the fuel to help run out the tank if you dont want to drain it. Carburetor and bad fuel is not a good mix. Will help clean out carb too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacsBrendella23 Posted May 24, 2021 Author Share Posted May 24, 2021 @S1Pitts am I able to straight dump in the seafoam directly into the fuel tank? I’m sitting at a full tank pretty much as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller S1Pitts Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 Yes you can dump it in to the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MDB1056 Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 +1 for @Rednucleus list - in addition to whatever you dump in the tank. Fresh cap, rotor, plugs and wires will make a world of difference if it's been a while. Just replaced mine on a 92 Hydrodyne (GM 5.7), wasn't having problems, but just way overdue. Can feel a noticeable difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Jetsetr Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 Sea Foam is great stuff, but if the primary jets are plugged from bad gas it probably won’t help. Full bottle in tank or 1/2 tank won’t hurt anything. Might have to pull the carb (actually just pull the metering blocks) and clean the primary jets. Holley 4160 is a easy carb to work on. New ignition parts won’t hurt either, then you have a baseline of what’s been replaced with new and you can move forward with trouble shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller elr Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 On my 96 351 changing the coil wire solved a lot of issues. That plus the list of tune up items above, filters and sea foam worked better then chasing fuel delivery for me. Rebuilt the carb when it wouldn’t hold idle speed even when warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller LeonL Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 Do you know if fuel bowls still had fuel in them? If there was still fuel it's unlikely that the jets are obstructed. Over one winter fuel is no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ReallyGottaSki Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 I suspect primary metering block, idle fuel orifices, likely boogered up. Idle mix screws likely ineffective? either should shut engine down when gently closed, else the circuit is not contributing. Topical additives unlikely to remedy. I suggest take apart the primary side as been said and go thought it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ DW Posted May 24, 2021 Baller_ Share Posted May 24, 2021 If your fuel lines are original or have not been replaced for a long time, change them to ethanol compatible lines. Ethanol is not compatible with '90's generation fuel hose. The debris from decaying old lines loves to find a home exactly in the place you don't want it. Your running description suggests the choke is not set correctly, either too lean or more than likely too rich. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller TEL Posted May 24, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 24, 2021 First do not try to treat bad gas drain it, siphon it out what ever is easy for you. Just get out as much as you can. Phase separation of ethanol blended fuel is a terrible thing. Then put fresh gas in tank with Sea Foam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacsBrendella23 Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 Hope this isn’t a dumb question but I’ve been researching the parts I need, I’m assuming I need to get marine specific parts. Like spark plugs wires and all that. lol I couldn’t just get these parts at Napa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Edmund Posted May 25, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 25, 2021 To be certain that you order correct marine parts, I would visit or call www.skidim.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ DW Posted May 25, 2021 Baller_ Share Posted May 25, 2021 Not a dumb question at all, anything that needs spark or fuel containment tends to require marine parts, although your example of plug wires and plugs are not one of them. Starter, distributor cap, alternator, carburetor are on the list. Another is thermostat due to corrosion issues related to an open cooling system and engine water temperature requirements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacsBrendella23 Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 Thanks everyone! I’ll be trying to get these parts by the end of the week and get back on the water this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacsBrendella23 Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 Am I able to test out my idle, and possibly run the boat while at home. So I’m not taking it to the lake and finding out changing spark wires/ plugs, cap etc didn’t work. Am I able to rev it up while just flowing water from my garden hose without damaging my impellers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Hockdog Posted May 26, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 26, 2021 Do you have a Fake-Lake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ DW Posted May 26, 2021 Baller_ Share Posted May 26, 2021 @MacsBrendella23 - running the boat at no load in the driveway may be deceiving and a good way to be fooled in thinking all is good. With no load, there is a good chance it will sound fine & when you rev the engine it will also seem okay, that is until you put a load on it and more fuel is required. The at home test is fine for checking timing, verifying raw water pump is working and there are no leaks. Doubtful plug wire and cap issues will be determined in the driveway, for that measure wire resistance and do a visual inspection of the cap although a small crack will be hard to see. And by all means do not put the boat in gear in the driveway, the shaft bushings use water as the lubricant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller LeonL Posted May 27, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 27, 2021 @MacsBrendella23 First fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and stick your water intake hose and garden hose in it. Then fire it up. As long as you still have water over the suction hose end you can know that you're ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MDB1056 Posted May 27, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 27, 2021 No. You’ll not be able to rev it up in the driveway. My 92 Hydrodyne will empty a full 5 gal bucket even with the hose running it in about 20 seconds just at idle . I can’t keep enough going into the bucket to keep it from emptying, and again that’s just at idle. My 83 MC I can stick the hose in the trans cooler and let it run(idle) but it’s still getting less water than when in the water. And as noted do NOTput it in gear out of the water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller oldjeep Posted May 27, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 27, 2021 You need a fake a lake or flush kit if you want to rev it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MDB1056 Posted May 28, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 28, 2021 @oldjeep - if fake a lake is still just hose fed how can it supply enough water for anything more than idle? Ive not seen anything that could keep up with the demand above just idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller oldjeep Posted May 28, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 28, 2021 Works fine on my vtx. I figure as long as temp stays in normal range it is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller LeonL Posted May 28, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 28, 2021 I've seen garden hoses sucked flat at just above idle. (if clamped to intake hose) I hardly see how a fake a lake could improve flow from the garden hose, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ DW Posted May 28, 2021 Baller_ Share Posted May 28, 2021 Raw water pump flows ~10 gpm per 1,000 RPM. From the Jabsco website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MDB1056 Posted May 28, 2021 Baller Share Posted May 28, 2021 what is used is not the issue. It's the capacity of the water going into it that is key. Most garden hoses are not high volume pressures. Turn yours on all the way and see how long it takes to fill a 5 gal bucket . To @LeonL point, fake a lake can't change the volume from the hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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