ColeGiacopuzzi

@ral+1 for analog! Way more consistent. You'll never go back.

I promise you just turning 1 ball and getting to 2 ball at 43 is absolutely next level insane. It will be a longgggg time before we even see just the back half of that pass.

@o2bnMaine To clarify something important, the ONLY way we're able to edge change behind the boat is if we accomplish a lot of things before hand, we need to have sufficient angle and speed out of the previous buoy to be able to start that edge change at the ideal time. The way I coach and the way I've been coached is to keep it as simple as possible. I try to improve your movements to run a better line to work with the boat instead of against it. There's no reason to try thinking about 5 things to start the process of it. Some people might disagree with me or call it vague, but one thing I tell people who pull long or have trouble knowing how or when to start the edge change is think about "Standing up sooner" Once you feel that release and know what it should feel like behind the boat we go into the next conversation. We can release from our pulling position and into our standing position and stay stacked over our feet/ski and start that one big turn from centerline out to apex and ride the swing of the boat out. From edge change release to apex t its just focusing on where our hips and hands are. Hope this helps.

@o2bnMaine Don't be embarrassed, I do the exact same thing. The more you can visualize yourself doing something you hear the easier it will be to go out and execute it.

@Stevie Boyit doesn't matter what level you're at, you're always refining your gates. They can always be better.

@Stevie BoyNo I'm looking at the buoys out in front of the boat. I guess I Could of worded it better.

@Stevie Boy So I stand pretty far out, usually where the whitewash meets the smooth water. Looking out ahead on the left side of the boat I use the left pre gate and 1 ball, when they intersect I pull out. (36mph) I learned that from Ian Trapp when he coached me way back in the day, and I liked it because its very very consistent. When I turn in I'm looking at the gates, but I shift my eyes to 1 ball when I hit the whitewash. For every line length shorter I pull out a tad later; as a visual probably half an inch. I do that to be able to get to that wide spot every time since the line will want to pull you back in as it gets shorter. That way you're never changing how hard you pull out that stays the same always. You're just changing WHEN you pull out. Hope this helps!

@503Kento Trent has a ton of videos on his instagram!👌🏽

@VermontSkierI'm not a lefty, but Trent @TFIN and Joel Poland have some of the best LFF gates. I'd watch those gates over a lot of people.

@Stevie Boy I would move the fin back a touch, 5 thousandths, that will lock the tail a bit so it doesn’t slide as much, should take away that overturn feeling. Let me know how it goes.

So Stoked she had a blast. Everyone at Rinis is top Notch!!

@Chris Rossi I might be mistakenly but I remember talking to Rossi and he said he rotates his front foot too a little bit. If it feels comfortable and you ski better I don't see why you cant leave it rotated. There's no wrong answer just what feels the most comfortable to you and where you can ski your best. It will probably only take a handful of sets or so to adjust to the change

Curious to see what you guys think with this boat being a 6.0L. the 668 felt like a freight train pulling you down the lake with the 5.7L. 422 was the way to go. @RichardDoane @AdamCord

@Stevie Boyobviously cold water affects how the ski turns along with a number of things. A couple of things you can do: Fin back would be one of the first things I would do. Fin deeper Move bindings back a 1/16 or an 1/8. This keeps more ski out of the water in the preturn to help add some space. Any of those will help. I'm not a huge fan of tuning my ski for colder water, if I do; I usually only do the first one which is move the fin back.

Anytime. Stoked it all worked out and he liked it and transitioned easy! That’s awesome! @jjackkrash

Yeah in the photo in your post you won’t be able to measure from the base because the RTP is touching right where the tape measure should go. So since the rear of the front boot lines up with the rear of that slot; you can measure from the rear of the slot straight back to the back of the ski and get your measurement. Does that make sense? feel free to PM and I can help more too!

@jjackkrashYes those settings were with the new boot. Yeah you can measure from the rear of the slot where it lines up with the rear of the boot.

Skied on Saturday with @ricowater was 58 air temp maybe 62. Very unusual weather here in CA for March. Usually skiing in tops by now..

@AdamCordWe had the exact same year and motor "5.7" and the 422 prop on it was insanely good! It was better than the 668 by far, the 668 felt like it yanked you down the lake, but with a 6.0L I'd take @Jody_Sealword or just try both and see.

Don't know how true it is, but I heard from an alumni that they're going to train at Spring Mountain Ranch which is a private site. its just a lot farther away at 2 hours, where as firebird was about 15 minutes

@HucklefinThe only thing radar in that setup is the plate.

@alex38 I would use the same hole on the plate you were using with your old vapor boot so you have it on the same spot on the ski.

@Stevie Boy I would go Short/Deep to start.

@Stevie Boy Feel free to reach out with any set up questions! We’ll get you dialed!

@SlalomSteveMy fault I didn't read all the comments. Yes I use a release, but yes like @ricosaid above you want it tight, but loose enough that you will come out in a bad fall. It really comes down to trial and error on land and seeing how much your ankle can slide up in your boot.