ColeGiacopuzzi

@makeall6 Just keep an eye out for the full 2023 Radar release. Its coming!

Out of the hole the new Prostar with the 6.0 is definitely more sluggish than the 2020 with the 6.0. the 2020 has way more torque. The transmissions might be geared differently.

Yeah bigger handles are definitely better for your hands, otherwise you're over-gripping and your palm is rotating and twisting more. When I was younger I started with a 1.00inch diameter handle and over the years have gone to a bigger diameter. I just went from a 1.030 to a 1.092. Kicking myself; I wish I would of done it years ago. I know some of my friends who are top level skiers that use the biggest diameter handle available, and have said in passing if they made bigger ones they would use them.

@LeonL if you feel like it’s a affecting your timing a bit then don’t slow the boat down as much.

@BlueSki One of the other things I was taught from him to is if you’re in mid season and you’re skiing a lot and going down the line a lot, run it every set. It doesn’t matter if you have to drop the speed lower than the last time you ran it. Just run it. We have to get it through our heads that it’s possible and we can do it. it’s just as much mental as it is physical. The more we see it and do it the more we will start to see it fall.

The plate is on the website under boots, unless you're talking about another plate. I haven't talked to Brooks on it yet.

@blueski One of the best learning tools we have at our disposal. I personally use it to help with consistently on my hardest pass. @TFIN was the one who really turned me onto this to start implementing it in my skiing. The idea is the speed change is not enough to mess with your timing, but enough to give you more time and confidence in running the pass. Having that extra bit of time teaches you what you need to do to run that pass. its amazing what decreasing 0.4 in speed feels like. Once you feel more confident with running a pass say at 33.6 go up to 33.7 the next set and stay there until that starts to feel easier until you end up at your starting speed. Obviously this time frame can be spread out for a whole summer or more.

@Zman Definitely go 66” for sure.

.

@alex38 if its the same brand ski and you're going down in size going from a 67 to 66 and want to match your current settings; the only 3 settings that change are: Half inch less on boot measurement, 5 thousands less depth and 5 thousandths back for DFT. If you're going up in ski size the above is opposite Hope this helps.

@clausy Not the same injury but close I had a partial labrum tear, no surgery, It took me 7 months to get back to skiing. 1 month of resting, 3 months of PT, and 3 months of working out getting back to full strength. My only advice is work your @ss off in PT/ and getting your range of motion back like @ISP6ball said above it makes a world of difference.

@vtmecheng were talking about measuring the sequence plate with vapor boots.

@jjackkrash Fat fingers I meant to type 30 3/8 for 68" sorry about that!! Yeah measuring from the slot is the fastest way no doubt!

@C5Quest You cant measure from the rear of the front boot if you're running double vapors on the sequence plate without taking the rear boot off.

@kurt It’s the same as measuring with the old vapors on the sequence plate you measure from the back of the slot next to the rear of the front boot. That measurement is the same as if you were only running a front vapor and measured from the base of it. For 67” I’d go: 29 7/8 2.490 6.845 .760 9

@BTheis I would 100% go 66". I'm 6'0" 177 and ride a 66" at 36mph.

@jjackkrash No those measurements are not for the new boot. So you can use those measurements above.

@jjackkrash For 68" I'd go: 30 5/8 2.495 6.845 .765 9 Feel free to PM about your sons and your ski and how those settings work out, I'll make sure to get you dialed.

@jjackkrash those were the settings I was at a while back, but to answer your question the extra DFT forward makes the tip ride lower allowing the tail to slide more. I usually end up riding our skis with more tail slide. Now I’m at: 29 3/8 from bottom of base of vapor boot. 2.485 6.845 .755 9 If you’re on a different boot than a vapor Go 29 9/16. Yeah i think that they will work great, give them a rip. Worse comes to worse you just go back to where you were.

Yes like @skierjp said we're doing our measurements from the bottom of the boot where it touches the plate, we found it was the most consistent spot to go from.

@Skoot1123 No worries!! Yeah its a crazy difference when you focus on slowing movements down, everything becomes slower and smoother. You have more time than you think even at short line lengths.

I think I can help clear this up a bit. @Horton isn't to far off here. I've skied with Brooks a ton and look to him a lot for coaching. What's really being said by Brooks and Seth is we're letting our feet swing underneath us while our body stays still, but its slowing that process down. If our feet swing to fast, we lose the line tension and our outward direction and puts our ski, body and handle path to the inside. We will only get so much swing now and it will stop and Our path now is going straight at the buoy instead of continually building and carrying our width all the way out to apex and creating an arcing turn. Remember from centerline to buoy is one big turn, we just need to control it. Now how we do that; the term I was taught and might be a different way to think about for a lot of people is "feel that power through your legs", we're controlling or slowing down that motion of when the ski swings underneath us at the edge change, by doing that it puts us in the best position where we can allow the boat to pull us up into the highest swing possible thus giving us the ability to continually build width and ride that line up as high as we can into the turn. I Hope this helps.

@Keith_Menard if you want you can give the above settings a rip. for a 67" it would be: 30 1/8 2.490 6.845 .760 9

This place looks amazing!! If I'm ever in CO definitely have to stop by.

Right on!! @C5Quest