Fehlindra

its an Fm Intuition liner thats heatmoulded but maybe need to remould it again

I think i must move the upper cuff buckles cos this doesn't seems or feel right its the right side buckle one thats like twist upwards on the cuff ! where have you guys moved the buckle on the supershell if u have and for what reason?

So guys do we rly need those upper cuffs at all it just seems to hinder our movements lateral, fore/aft

Im on the supershell now but im quite scared if it release and the rear foot is still in the binding last time that happend (long time ago)3 month on crutches and 11 month for total recovery maybe its possible to do some OTF in very slow speeds an have the release tension set low and rear foot binding very lose to practice !

BTW have an new setup for next year thnx Eddie R

Oldmanskier I've used the FT setup above that Wish added, this season was an experiment had an issue body related i wanted to solve with the project but now its not me. I maybe can help you after all tries and error I've done this summer. i started with the same as you two Fulltilt boots Intuitionsliners the shell had an tongue that allowed me to flex forward but with resistance that u can change, i clamped the boot into an non release binding and of we go! deepwaterstarts almost impossible! manage to get up after 10 or more attempts experienced rly nice offsides and first time in my life a felt the term smear /slide that Rossi, Jay and others talk about. but with two mounted hard-shells i had hard time to initiate turn on my good side. with regular bindings when u lean forward over the ski u bend/raise your back foot ankle but with this setup when u try move forward with the rear leg and hip the only thing you bend is the whole tail of ski i think that caused an massive increase of the ski rocker that led to the easy offside smear /slide ! later i changed to radar vapor boot back on the non release binding that solved deepwater start and problem to initiate some turns espec on my good side. but now to other issues with our setups spec mine , my foot is 1,7 inch above the ski +the thickness of the intuition liner imagine that u stand on skyscrape and your ski is on the bottom of the scrape to get your ski on edge u must first lean the "scrape" that is like an lever arm very slow pre turns and hard to get the ski fast on edge. i tried to bolt the boot direct to the sequence plate yes it was better but still very slow edge change and hard to get on edge, i planned to trim down the boot to an thin layer so i almost stand on the sequence plate with the intuition liners and mold an slim carbonfibre construction around the boot so i have something to anchor the boot into the plate with, alternative was some modified reflex system but then i don't know if the boot lose its form cos of the weak/half open botom of the boot. later on i removed the upper cuff and trimmed down sidewalls just above the ankle my skiing was improved after that. But you cant do that at least not remove the upper cuff then u lose the ability of the boot that helps u out with your injury so my tips to you keep your front boot or try to get an full tilt boot same as mine but trim down the botton of the boot to almost nothing or open botom and on someway solve how you shall attach the boot to the skiplate and sugest that u use an soft boot back /rtp max an softer regular hardshell reflex or other brands. Happy new year and gl next season with your sking and confiurations.

ok shall talk with the (council) and see what they say about every thing u guys helped me out with

shall try to find out what rev. we have this week thnx guys

we have magnets but im unsure of the ver. of the pp software, can u flash it? or is it an hardware eprom that must be replaced

We have an 2001 nautique is it possible to use an slalom switch för that or is it better to try get an upgrade to Star Gazer Upgrade, Z Box and Multi-Line Display ?

LOL my fault i meant that edit inc. hmm cant edit my first post can only bookmark it but OK I meant *** LFF ***

What i have read and used was if you are an RFF skier pivot the rear binding anticlockwise like 1100 to tuck your rear leg behind the front leg but when i study pictures of Whitney skiing so can i see that here rear binding is much pivoted to the other direction 1300, and videos shows both hips and shoulders are rly open to the boat on here good side. there are probably no rules for this but what do i get from changing to from 1100- 1300 i suppose i get an even better good side and offside gonna be more difficult to stay open or do i have wrong!

Now its time to be creative Mold your own carbon fibre ducts and add to your 16 vapor

haven't still tested the thingy but now its winter and time to try out some crazy things while we here in cold regions waiting for da spring http://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/14328/dry-land-practice

Doesn't all 2016 thats are manufactured today have the windows/mesh thats shown in the catalog?

This is what my new FM Intuition liner looks like after heat molded. the left side is thin efter the stretch and the right side have 1 extra layer of overlap thats one step in the right direction to solve issues with my leg alignment probably must use wedge/washers under plate as well my shinbone aren't ftm affected of the left inner layer so i think ill keep this heat mold as it is rly comfortable liner

its an Full Tillt dropkick boot and bomber elite2 ski board binding

I have sent an P.m to Eddie about it as u guys suggested

would love to have the glossy surface from ladies ski

I bought it new, and yes it might been an wrong decision to select ski after its appearance but i rly liked it and every time when i remove the ski from the ski-case i almost smile a bit. Ofc i wanna progress so i cant buy another ski that doesn't fit me! i have tested bindings pos and a lot of fin and even removed wing but its rly "draggy" maybe if i was skiing 36mph at short line length not my 22off 34

Just the color

I'm on the pink Vapor 66 i think its little softer flex and I'm 170 ibs and the ski is this range 125-180 i experience that the ski i so slow and drag to much for me i don't get any speed on it i think that the 180 ibs max range is meant to be for 36 mph I'm an 34 and not into deep shortline , i think D3 have different max and min weight for different speeds! all of you talk so much good about the new 16 Vapor so i cant resist to not buy one but now to the thingy i don't like the the mens ski graphics (black/red) i found it very dull and looks like it have the same lacklustre paint job as the T2 i know its intendedly the women's is quite nice not as nice as my 15 whitney. i need an 67 but don't know if there are any 16 women's ski in 67 ? and don't know anything about it how much or if it differ from the males in flex or other things if there are softer flex maybe it slows the ski down and drag pls help me out

As Ed says with this binding its a lot more response with less input i have the same problem with overturning on my 1-3-5 RFF but i just got my FM intuition liner so i haven't heatmolded it yet nor less i havent had the time to correct the tilt on the shell/cuff that's needed to have an neutral stance on the ski to overcome the over turning on my good side i think i can tilt the shell even more so the ski wanna turn slightly to the right when standing with an neutral stance right over the ski and that's gonna help me with my offside turn as well 2-4-6 and and gate its prob gonna take alots of tweaking to get the right settings

I haven't tested it yet so cant say anything but it looks nice. for pure muscle training u get away with whatever that have some degrees tilt but i think its important to get the same feeling u get on dry as you shall try achive on the water when practicing on your stance so at least as u said Wish just use the boot system or attach it with one of your ski that u dont use Horton u have plenty of em but u dont need it u dont have snow and ice on your lake =)