Fehlindra

@jimski maybe its possible to remove the locknut on the release to get to the last hole and move binding plate further back if you need maybe u need another screw some low profile Flathead

When will this ski come out in glossy eye candy colors i thinking Pink or VOLVO Rebel blue POLESTAR.... Black FED SWAT TEAM hightech carbon fiber is cool but the 90s colors are cult.

@dchristman I cant tell what you get out of it i can just assume it provides more twist ability in an very comfy down trimmed boot thingy i dont own an RTP but shall try a few different ones out to see what i wanna achieve

So i can stay more level with my shoulders to get an more symmetrical pull, and prevent too much twist on my spine have problem with my back and my hip flexors are very what do you say short or tight (not like an gymnast) On dry land holding onto a rope it feels like i can get my COM faster over my front fot and keep it there when twisting my rear fot

With the R-style you get that full forward and aft movement but the heel are still locked in as an full hardboot preventing any twisting left to right as u can do in an RTP that can help the hip stay more open. Dont know if its possible to modify the R-style to something like this trick binding without the rear heel buckle

Is that an Razor 2?

If i need the front hole think i need to disassemble the release arm before its possible to get the screw in place btw would be nice to have those titan countersank washer in purple with Ballofspray printed on it and some matching screws @Horton make it happen for yaa waterski community =) https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium/titanium-washers/titanium-countersunk-washer-m6-22mm-o-dx.html

On my 67" 16 vapor using the recommended 29 1/2 FB setting ill end up on the second hole but i cant use radars wide original screws nor the regular one with an small countersunk washer it pulls to one side cos of release foundation then there is another prob if i wanna move the binding one step further back there are an bolt from the release how do u guys solve this ? Btw nevermind the distance washers on pic it just ended up there

ok i think u missed me there the more u twist the rear binding = help you stay open more on one side but at the same time the other side gonna be more locked. what i ment in the previous post was if it was possible to get the best out of two worlds an rear boot that wasn't fixed in place or more that give you the ability to twist the rear fot in the course like you can do with an RTP but more. how to build it ftm dont know -sliding bearings some rubber think it need some resistance drag. in the video with Andy rtp myths he moves hes fot but very little to one side, i think some people can see the adv of it particular all of us that haven't that body made of rubber.

@gregy @Ed_Johnson agree on the shim, take it step further stand on the floor as you do on the ski simulate an pull open to the the boat turn your hips and a bit of your spine as u normally do, now when you are at your max (open) lift the heel of the rear fot a bit and twist the rear foot as much as you can while the toes still remain on the floor (ski) check how much more you open up (stays open to the boat) test both onside and offside when i did it its ALOT more!!! now to the thingy is it possible to make the R- binding twist, yes i know its possible to do but is it possible to ski with it or learn to ski with it

Got mine in the weekend long wait but worth it and must say @SkiJay u rly did it with bravura

k i have now heat molded the shell so the front is more flat and gonna bolt it down so the toe box is flat against the binding plate, but its some tension in the shell and lifts in the rear so an wedge is prob needed but need that anyway (an normal hair dryer worked)

Found an hardshell boot that I started today to trim down to get R-style performance now it has lower height than the blue vapor even if it stands on the table and the hard boot is on the ski i just need to move one of buckles don't think i need to cut the front out or whats the reason Reflex do that? i can imagine the shell losen up a bit and get less stiff and moves with your motion more. Gonna try the vapor liner first before i buy the low profile reflex one

Would like to see a skilled skier 16-13m perform a side by side video what we have learned from the begin wait until finishing the turn to get the best angle against the boat and this new pulling phase direct from the buoy (skilled in da matter so its possible to clearly see some difference)

Dont know if its possible to combine FM slalom harness with one of the lesser models of windsurf harness or maybe the seat harness can work for an lower anchor point to get the pull from the hips FM thingie Dakine some modification is is prob needed

With an over sized old big and stiff HO and connelly vest from the 90s that where shorter than todays vests you could tuck your arm under the front o the vest and get an very low anchor point and the pull from the lower back of the vest there wasn't any padding on the sides if i remember right so your arms was rly close to your body. Maybe design an vest with some adjustable padding on the right places to adjust where u wanna have your arms

@gavski picture pls

mine was shipped 10th of dec to sweden surface mail like @RAK he got his a few days ago i still waits for my copy so @robb have patience

question longer on one side is that static or happens when the ski is on edge on one side?

Maverick- Goose give me more fin depth on the left fin

@adamhcaldwell tanks for your pdf it was rly informative going to pick hints and mods from it must say very well written. I know u have right about the for/aft mobility with my liner tested it with the binding on the floor and yes it is some resistans but at least in the begin of the season i need that for suport and more safety before my feet and ankle manage the stress and load, it was the same reason that i couldn't handle the blue vapor boot changed to radar profile boot that had more suport for weaker muscles. do you recommend the Intu aqua for supershell? I gonna trim down the side of the shell did this on the fultillt boot as well another story! when this is done the upper cuff doesn't seem have the same impact side to side on my shin that had been an problem for me since i started to use the newer stiffer boots with high sidewalls. i think i need an update from you the main reason why flatten out the supershell with the white 3D scanned heal cup i cant see or feel any "lag" the heal of the shell stand direct on the G10 plate thrue the hole in the heal cup. Next contact point is right under the ball of the fot i have high arch of the foot so i cant feel anything different if i flatten the shell out maybe if i can force the front toe section down cos that part does not have direct contact to the plate.

I have the Fluid motion tour custom binding in the supershell i haven't tested it out yet but heat moulded it so its an layer overlap on the right side (twice the material) hope that help instead of add rubber on different places in the hardshell yes its quite thick but i like the feel of being embed if that doesn't work out i think ill go for the intu aqua one. pics before and after heated

I hope the post office can deliver mine soon as well, its prob here soon it was shipped 10/12 its still months to the spring