Kwoody51

@lakeo need a 67” as I’m 6’3” and 195lbs. I have options for an ‘18 or ‘19 all lined up already. Thanks though and best of luck with your sale! What are you moving to?

@ironhorse - you are speaking my language but I don't think that's going to happen without getting told to pound sand :) Both skis are priced very well for their condition. I 'might' be able to get it to a $150 difference best case.

@MDB1056 thanks! This is the way I'm leaning but wanted to get some thoughts from others :)

In addition to all that's been mentioned check out getting a percussion massage like a Theragun or you can DIY one using a jigsaw and attachment from amazon. While it might seem a little gimmicky it works and works fast. Very similar to a foam roller but more concentrated and a lot more intense. You'll feel like someone is punching you in a painful spot, but it's a hurts so good type of pain :) The percussion will rapidly increase blood flow to the area. It's not quite as nice as a massage but the results are pretty effective. I used a 12v Milwaukee cordless jigsaw ($~100) and the bit from amazon. So for ~$150 I have what functions the same as a unit that is $300+.

I'm looking to pickup a new to me used Vapor pro build. I'm split between the following '18 Pro build - rarely used, basically new as seller skis at 30mph on a Radar Senate typically '19 Pro Build - used for 1.5 seasons by a seasoned course skier Price difference between them is ~$175. Coming from a '15 Vapor Lithium. The thread on new skis technology has me believing that the change from PVC to PMI core will help me out :smiley: So less used/ fresher '18 vs more used but updated layup on the '19? Not sure how much difference a 'fresh' ski makes for a 15' off 34mph skier. I'll likely keep the ski for ~3-4 years before I get another lightly used ski. I've read all the differences between the models and it seems the '19 has improved feel but is the same shape and feel is from the layup change. Thoughts - Save the $$$ or go with newer model?

Would be interesting to see what you see for GPH when plowing water, just below planing speed vs on plane speed. I'd love to carry around this data on a public lake to show all the Wally's that choose to plow water and throw a giant wake vs get up on plane (or drive slower) that they are burning way more fuel than if they'd just go a few mph faster. Just one of many things that drive me crazy when on the lake.

Let's hope we don't get into a case of it only being BNG each year:) BNG = bold, new, graphics! This is one of the favorite terms in reviews when nothing changes from one year to the next other than new, updated graphics! Seems common in motorcycle or boat reviews where they may not update much yearly.

I don't know how to stop it but my understanding is the purpose is to let you know that it can beep. If the beep turns into a constant on then it's letting you know there is an issue. Instead of an idiot light we get an idiot beep :)

Skittles boat- taste the rainbow!

Seems I’m hearing a lot of love for the T-factors still which is why I went that way in the 1st place. Pre-releasing doesn’t sound fun. I can crash just fine on my own... don’t need any help from the equipment! The itch to try other things sometimes is hard to ignore :)

There is a small, very small, chance it could be a loose hose or a crack in a hose but as others have mentioned your core is likely done. Running raw lake water through the heater cores is very tough on them. Automobiles have highly engineering coolant running through them so they aren't subject to the corrosion that a boat heater core is. May or may not matter but when I'm not planning to use my heater I shut off the valve to it so it doesn't have any lake water running through it. Maybe this is worse as lake water sits in it... I don't know. When my heater core goes out not sure I'll replace it as the accessibility of it is awful!

I'd buy the $60 option option off ebay (the black painted one) as that looks like it will stand up to marine environment better. Then take in your other one for a rebuild. You can replace the stock one once fixed if you want it all to match and have a spare if you ever need it. Agree with @oldjeep there is 0% chance these starters are purpose built for Illmor. They are using a standard starter and painting it to match the engine.

I had this issue on my Mastercraft X-14 the solution was to install a relay between the radio and the battery. I put in a house battery but this didn't solve the issue. The problem is caused by a voltage difference from the alternator, battery and to the radio head unit. I tried all the other options above and nothing helped. The relay completely solved my issue. Below are the steps I followed for my boat from an expert on the mastercraft forum. I'm not an electrical whiz but doing this solved my issue. Don't ask me questions about this as I can't answer.... I just followed these steps to a T and it worked :) This is the Relay I used. Steps I got and followed - credit goes to JimN from Mastercraft forum Use distribution blocks for the main + and - cables at the amplifier- it prevents the need to jam wires in where they don't fit. You'll need a Bosch relay for this- get one with a diode for suppressing voltage spikes. Step 1- Feed a Red and a Black wire (12ga) from the distribution blocks to the head unit. Step 2- completely disconnect the head unit from the boat harness and cap the yellow wire. Step 3- connect the red wire from the boat harness to tab 85 on the relay and connect the black wire to tab 86. Step 4- connect the new red wire to the yellow wire and to tab 30 on the relay. Step 5- connect the head unit's red wire to tab 87 on the relay. Step 6- Use a ring terminal to connect the black wire from the head unit and the new black wire from the grounding distribution block, then use the screw on the back of the head unit to secure them to the head unit. Use a wire tie to secure the relay to the harness and the proper terminals on the wire ends. It's best to use a fuse at the end near the distribution block for the new red wire. This tends to be the best wiring scheme- the amp(s) and head unit are connected to power at the same point, so there's no reason for whine to occur but it's still possible. One reason it's best to do it this way- if the resistance between the head unit and amp(s) is high enough, damage can occur, somewhere (depends on which circuit is most sensitive to it). Tap 30 is the Hot and the yellow wire provides memory for the radio, as well as main power- the red has become more of a 'switch-enable' connection that turns on when the key is turned or an accessory switch is used.

This seems like an every 2 year thing that I debate if I should move to hardshell vs stick with my t-factor. The ‘only’ complaint I have about the T-factor is at the end of multiple sets it feels very tight on my foot. Run a radar HRT and am happy with that. I mainly aggressively free ski at 34mph 15’ off but would like to get into the course at some point. What do you all think? Am I missing out on safety or performance by not being on a hardshell? Know hardshell are pricy but less so than a visit to Dr... Totally get I’m not ripping off bouys at 35’ off but doesn’t mean I don’t like/ appreciate the newer tech :)

@Horton what is your timing to get a new rig? If you wait another ~3 months 2021’s will start hitting lots which will change the deal structure on 2020 models.

@Dacon62 what ‘14 vapor were you riding, a lithium? I’m on a ‘15 vapor lithium with similar specs to the OP and debating about a new ski. Really want a C75 or new pro build but likely don’t need either... :)

If the x9 is getting offered up then I’ll throw out the x-14. Better wake than the x9 and an awesome size for the family. Not baller wakes for skiing but arguably a better overall family boat than many of the other options.

@brooks BOA is shipping me the parts I need and I was able to get it apart and thread it through with the cable still there. Thanks all for the help!

No T6 driver with me... so seems I’ll have to make due on last day of vacation. Kids all want to ski and tube so likely won’t make it out anyway... Yes we have to have a tube for the kids :wink: Thanks everyone for your help!

Figured some ballers knew how to do this! On vacation and was just hitting a sunset ski on some glass when this happened. Will see what tools I have with and if I can pull the BOA apart and fix tomorrow. I skied it as is as the water was just too good! Made me focus on my form a little more :) @WoodySkier and @BraceMaker Thanks for those links! The BOA warranty site is awesome, few clicks and have parts headed my way.

My BOA cable broke/ came loose. I tried to stuff it back in the guide and run the tensioner but it only tightens on the side still inserted. Can it be fixed?! Couldn’t figure out why my back foot kept feeling like it was about to come out! @brooks

I can verify that 9mpg is accurate with the 3.5 EB pulling ~5k boat+trailer at ~75mph mostly flat. Just did a 170 miles trip a few days ago and this is what we got.

3.5 ecoboost tows like a dream! We have a ‘17 expedition max and it’s been great. Can’t comment on the turbo longevity but will say that peak torque at ~2k rpm is hard to beat. Rarely downshifts and if it does you don’t ‘hear’ the engine like with a 5.3 NA that really starts to growl when it has to pop down a gear. I suspect you could find a great deal on a ‘newer’ but old body style expedition. Given they ran this chassis for ~8 years it pretty ironed out. If you are looking at GM make sure you get one a newer one with independent rear suspension. The ones without the rear load floor is up ~6” due to the live rear axle. Really eats up the rear cargo space and makes loading things that much harder.

I talked to one of their sales guys about their electric boat at the show in MN. Said ~1.5 hour run time and will only charge at 60 amps or 14 kWh/ hour. Assuming a 75 kWh pack size (he didn’t know pack size) this means if it’s dead you are looking at 5+ hours to recharge. He said top speed was 40+mph, just like normal v drive. You can get a complete separate battery pack installed on shore, for $60k, which will allow for much faster charge times. Said they have this electric boat out for a customer on Tahoe. They had to adjust the torque curve as early torque mapping was leading to snapped drive shafts. I didn’t feel I should mention I thought that was across all V drive boats :) Regardless of cost it’s cool to see someone trying something different. Clearly as the auto’s create large battery packs they will be utilized by others for other applications.

Have stayed in Grand Rapids plenty of times for work. Lots of nice hotels near the airport, pretty much all the major names. Some nicer/ newer than others but all good enough. As others mentioned Founders Brewery is an amazing spot and there are other micro brews around as well.