ski6jones

I think that clip shows the answer is yes, provide you can maintain your position the entire time you should be accelerating. Recently I have been taking more angle than I could hold into center with all the expected results. Today I used a technique I've used in the past that helps moderate the angle I take and everything worked better. I was able to maintain position with the angle I carried into the wakes. If you can maintain position then I think more lean translates to more speed.

Yes. Not sure about the T1 but it was definitely a problem on T2. Both had torque box.

T2 until it broke down, then T2 until it broke down. Currently riding a Mapple 6.0 It's better than most I've ridden recently.

@Kelvinwill take care of you. I also know some people. Let me know if I can help.

@skibrain looks like only available for outboard at this point. Would be cool to test though. Just add that $5k to the cost of an already ridiculous boat price. Next up, auto driving! How high can boat prices actually go before nobody can afford them? Asking for a friend. Already there for me.

Wouldn't you be moving across the water infinitesimally faster than the boat is? You're going further than the boat in the same amount of time. Same as when you turn with great angle but to a much smaller extent. Probably not the point you were going for.

You can propel a skateboard with the principles suggested for accelerating a ski on this site. It's easy to learn on a skateboard because there is no rope to save you from falling. If you get back footy on a skateboard you will hurt your coccyx.

I'm only using the mirror on getup and if I think the skier came off. I only watch the mirror while driving if I'm the only one in the boat AND skier is looking for input. PTM 140 does all of that on my windshield, appropriately placed.

"Batteries not included."

I read up on @dbutchers question a little because it was interesting. I found some charts that plotted carry capacity vs pressure for different tires. Looks like the rating for those tires is 2300# at 65 psi, formulas are in the link. They also contend that the ride should be softer at lower pressure provided the tires are inflated enough to carry the load, which yours are at 65 psi. The more you know.

I wonder about the geometry of the release mechanism WRT the boot. With a hard plate connecting the toe to heel parts the relative positions of those parts is more fixed. Attached independently to the ski and the ski flexing the geometry is more variable. Would this interfere with the release characteristics of the binding?

Not really answering your question but I had never had this till last year. About the same time it was really starting to bother me a friend noticed I had begun pulling the rope in by bending my elbows as I crossed the wake. Just a bad habit I picked up but pretty sure that's what start my elbow pain. Since then I've worked really hard to stop doing that and my elbow has gotten lots better but is still sore. That and avoiding the big hits Kind of what @MISkier said. I also get up palms down.

Did you get the Vapor with displacement hull @bigtex2011 , CG cutter version?

Did you get the Vapor with displacement hull @bigtex2011 , CG cutter version?

Is there a completed bracket online anywhere?

Is there a completed bracket online anywhere?

@horton party poopper.

If there is a noticeable build up then the callouses are too big. Lots of good suggestions about how to trim them down. I use a single edged razor blade, carefully, as needed. If the callouses are toward your palm rather than on your fingers the I'd say you should work on your grip. Let the handle rest at the first knuckle of your finger. You'll still get callouses but you are less likely to rip your palm. I've also found that gripping a cold water bottle immediately before skiing can alleviate some hand pain, though not a substitute for managing your callouses wherever they are.

@Ski_Dad what type of pain are you having? Blisters? Muscle soreness? Other? It probably matters as to how you might resolve it. You said pain in your palms. What kind of pain?

@jedgell ?

@dave2ball hit the nail on the head. I'll go further and say you need to ski them, not just put them on. If you want the best for you plan on trying most of the recommendations posted here untill you find your favs. MN for me. Can't go wrong for $50 bucks. Used to do ML K-palm kevlar with liners. Too much stuff in your palm with that setup IMO.

@leonl I don't disagree but it's a slippery slope.

@dchristman I don't think that language is in the current rule book, at least I couldn't find it. https://www.teamusa.org/-/media/USA_Waterski/Disciplines/3-Event-Water-Skiing/AWSARulebook.pdf?la=en&hash=B62943892FA833196B2F379B9F0DF0E2CC8991F5

I tried them but had trouble securing the front of the plate where the release mechanism is. The front of the plate needs to be SECURELY fastened to the ski. Without this the potential for pre release is high. There are no standard screw holes at this location on any current skis which leaves drilling screw holes in the ski, or using the recommended tape. I even tried epoxying studs for mounting. At the end the day I couldn't do all of the this and try new skis also. My experience could be tainted by the fact I have size 12 feet. With larger feet it became much more difficult to secure the release mechanism at the front of the plate to the ski. The longer plate put the mechanism even further forward from the stock inserts on most skis requiring more holding force from the tape (in my case). If your feet are small then the system may work better. The release mechanism seems solid and worked as designed when securely attached to the ski Mike was also very helpful working through all of this but at the end of the day I had to move on

Very sad to hear this news, however if just one injury is prevented it's all worth it. YES, this is where that idiotic logic leads. You're welcome.