Gloersen

Like to start a thread on the do’s and don’t’s of promo boat ownership for edification. prior thread reviewed. http://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/6477/promo-boats Dealer buyback arrangements? 1 vs 2 year turnover. ideal # of “owners” Amount of use limited (hours) to enhance resale. 5.7L vs 6+L? Etc, etc.,… Thanks.

Commiserate. Ruptured Left AT 2 cm below musculotendinous junction 8/5 striking newly placed GBB#6 with a lateral impact just in front of FB. Good luck with your rehab. Read up, be smart; optimize your results. My goal is to be doing drills by 11/01/2013

@Texas6 - yes it's mine, happened 8/5/13, skiing with Chuck Norris, he said my 32off passes sucked, so I promptly climbed in the boat and annihilated his arrogant ass with a single roundhouse kick; ruptured my Achilles in the process, but it was worth it; Chuck Norris was puking blood in his mouth... @skidawg, looks like a great repair...this is not going to take 3 months...no way! appreciate the recovery encouragements.

...a means to alleviate "over-skiing"!

Can there be too much even if physically fit? Skied > 690 buoys, mostly 13m in 10 days followed by most abysmal tournament ever. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AvV5_MXwwkcDdEJoY0NNZWUtZERPZlNUU1dzTHJva2c#gid=22

Canadian Federation

Conventional thought seems to have been that a decrease in DFT will allow the ski to be out front a bit more, which typically adds acuity and angle out of the offside buoy, imo. However after a bad tournament changed M6 (66.75) from 29-5/8 to 29-3/8 (Reflex) and arbitrary fin change from 6.840/2.500/.775/9 to 6.832/2.515/.780/9 Results; smoother lean and onside turns, better width both ways, and offside turns even quicker/sharper. The latter doesn’t make sense based on older assumptions, but corroborates @ShaneH observations. Experiment with a few sets. Fresh battery and keep calipers dry!

2nd @Skijay, decrease DFT 1st

nearly identical here; Reflex 29 3/8, 6.835/2.500/.777/9w. M6 is GOOD!

Flashed the chip to "R" on the '09 196, not different at all if no "+", imo.

any "+" setting under Rev R puts ZO back to pre-Rev Q mode; much stronger

Cutting the top of the cuff down helps taming the tendency to turn one way by removing pressure from too far above the ankle. Two lower buckles tight, cuff buckle kind of loose, just less than snug. When it feels right, mark the straps so they are tightened the same amount each time, otherwise consistency wanes.

M6 is the greatest ski ever under my unskilled feet. Confer with AM for changes, might want to try less depth initially though. It’s hard to blow out the tail on this ski. Initial settings on my 67/AM were .781/2.501/6.837/8 Reflex FB 29 5/8 KLP suggested longer, back, & maybe shallower to keep tip down on onside. So went to .770/2.490/6.860/8. It perhaps kept the ski more level through the turns but shot out too far in front out of the offside and thus tip up into onside pre-turn/AM. Although at these settings, still the ski created tons of width & space with great turns. Changed to .785/2.500/6.840/9, Reflex FB 29 3/8, best yet, ski stays under me, great width both directions off 2nd wake, rolls on edge smoothly and progressively, crisp, symmetrical turns, maintains speed through turns; overall an easy ski to ride and create lots of space. Regarding fin length & DFT, the ski does not seem that finicky. Keep creating space, it performs better each time.

Slalom Math Here we go again. For a given amplitude some aspects are set in stone. IMHO the difference lies in the fact of the endeavoring shorter line skier coughing up the handle too soon. As the line lessens the response to the additional speed is to serve up the handle too soon. One can run passes at 15, 22, 28, & 32 off by doing so, but 35 off & less requires a leap of faith, confidence in the face of the additional speed to keep the handle at the core (connected) further out on the width of the course; in fact to ski wider than the buoy line.

Freeze-frame ACE's gates in this video; fundamentally quite sound. Of course there are many different approaches to the gates, hers however are, imho, exemplary of a technique that can yield consistency.

Last time something similar witnessed was at an away tournament; 1st skier off the dock in Rd 2 (Class C) ran right up the line through 38off whom had never seen 4B at 35off in the past. At that point tower judges were saying wtf. Turns out the long line segment had been erroneously placed at the distal end of the rope for the fun skiers at the end of Rd 1. His 38off = 23off, it was a wonder he ran the opening passes! Gotta be the rope

@ktm300 - ultimately the .775 range seemed best. Have you tried the Matt Brown suggested settings? (.775/2.515/6.850). Maybe someone else can chime in on what KLP might be leaning towards, especially if you're considering going back to .730. If so I might try .730/6.860-6.865/2.490-2.495. IMHO it's always worth making a big fin change to see if it seems better, so long as you don't strip the block set screws by doing so too often!

How many L/R 41 off runs does he now have? Between he, CP, & Asher could be a great season for stabs at the WR.

4th set on 66.75" M6 - Reflex 29.75" - .781/2.501/6.837/8 - setup/AM First ski I haven't felt like tweaking. Time to fundamentally tweak skier; quicker turn-in for the gates with more speed, tighter connection, more athletic/balanced/stack out wide. Fix those crap-awful "onside" turns. Open/level shoulders...etc. The ease of this ski makes it feel like such fundamental changes can take place. Looking forward to more superb coaching. Another convert.

Shoulders open/facing down course throughout, especially pre-turn, reach, and into hook-up; everything else rotates into place.

@Texas6 - a lack of skiing talent precludes me from commenting on it with any detail after just 1 set. I can say with confidence that if you demo it quite certainly you'll like it. Liking a ski can be a good thing... or bad thing if unable to ride it more.

Had the pleasure of skiing with Andy yesterday a.m. He is a fine host, excellent coach, has a great facility, and his M6 is quite a ski. Looking forward to a return trip, next time hopefully with air above 50 and less wind!

@AB - thanks for the advice, Matt Rini kept coaching me to "hide the back shoulder from the boat" crossing the 2nd wake into the pre-turn and reach. Just need to start doing it.

It's dated but the "technique move" of the trailing arm described is probably still applicable in regards to tight handle control. Even if reasonably strong, implementation is challenging, imho.

@matthewbrown - thanks for the fin tips, dft is .775 (typo corrected) will try 6.850 to see if it helps with balance and more wetted ski. At one point .770/6.848/2.507/8 was decent but migrated to current due to often over-turning the offside and sluggish 1B. With a pylon wide-more lean/balance gate maybe the longer fin can be appreciated. So now just 1. Wide, efficient edge-out 2. Maintain handle tight/line tension at pylon width. 3. Unweight the ski, lower the handle, soften knees, take the weight off back foot. 4. Get stacked out wide, handle on the left thigh above the knee, athletic/balanced stance, chest up/shoulder back way from the handle, don’t give anything up heading into the wakes. 5. Trust the left/trailing arm core connection, keep the knees soft and create that “swing” effect at centerline; do not separate from the handle maintain “handle control”; the RevC happens. Keep the handle low. 6. Hide the back shoulder, shoot the ”arrow”, reach ear height with the “bow”, Fosbury flop 1B. 7. Trust the right/trailing arm connection, keep the handle level, low and tight over the left inner thigh above the knee, aggressive athletic stance, chest up/shoulder back from the handle, maintain core connection into centerline, create “swing”, repeat mirror image. 8. At least a dozen other things. With about 2.8 seconds/path and a 50m/s neural impulse loop speed; should be able to accommodate about 140 cognitive functions from hook-up to apex. Right?