davemac

Masterline now has the new Ergo handles up on their website (with no pictures)

Can't really relate physique wise. I'm a stocky 5-9", 185... I currently have an XL Blacktec, but looking to go to the Large. Unfortunately, I'd say you are a "tweener". Personally I'd opt for the Large, to get the better warmth and less water penetrating. You might ask Robby her advice...and if possibly there are any "long" sizes available by custom order....if it exists, a large/long would probably be perfect. Good luck.

@DefectiveDave‌ I could only weigh those tiles in oz (but converted to grams). A single 3/16" thick tile matching the 14" long aluminum plate is 8.2oz (232g). A single tile trimmed down and mounted on top of the plate is 6.5oz (184g). So looks like the two tiles I utilized added about 13oz (368g)

Well it is hardly compressible at all, but it is very flexible. I have no means to accurately weigh it here at home (I struggle not to obsess over component weights on my road bike, thus haven't purchased one of those small scales). I can have it weighed in the mail room at work tomorrow. Do you want me to just weigh just the two trimmed tiles...or full 14" length? I should add... if someone is looking for just another 3/16" elevation, I would think one of these could just as easily be placed underneath the plate...with having a neglible effect on flex

So I ended up using the 3/16" thick vinyl tiles from HD (they do have large dimples on one side, but don't think that will matter). I initially cut several of them out to match the aluminum base plate (first pic)...which was pretty simple to do w/ a razor knife...tracing around the plate. Aside from elevating my foot another 3/8", two goals were to minimize weight, and not compromise the plates ability to flex...so I elected to stack two of them on top of the plate, and trim them shorter -to be not much larger than I need. Also drilled (6) holes for the toe bar (second pic). I covered the top layer with 3M grip tape. Final product is in last picture. (Yes, I realize I don't have a big toenail...but I couldn't afford a foot model, and don't know how to photo shop). Obviously I needed (6) longer machine screws for the toe bar. Turns out the #8-32 x1-1/4" ones I picked up were a bit too long (and 1" is not long enough)...so I just ordered a pkg of 1-1/8" length on ebay...which I'm now waiting for....for final assembly and test. Hopefully this info is helpful to someone... or at least interesting. One downside of this was that I had to purchase a 6 pack of the 18"x18" tiles ....so I have extras. Three "spacers" can be cut out of each tile. If anyone wants some, drop me a PM.

@waternut Agreed, and I guess I should clarify. By bungee, I was trying to refer to how the tongue section of the overlay is attached with a stretchy material that allows the tongue to "float" around some. Maybe because my foot is at the smaller end of the "one size fits all"... I just like the more positive feel of a solid, traditional overlay, and don't care for how the ARTP tongue initially stretches forward when kicking in...and seems inconsistent in where it recoils to.

I bought a pack of that vinyl flooring this afternoon and just cut a 14" piece in the shape of the aluminum plate. I'll work on it this week, but I think it has promise. You can score it w/ a razor knife then "break" it off. It is not too heavy, very pliable, and wants to lay flat. I also like the fact that it can be drilled...which will be helpful for the 3 screws for each of the toe bars. @DefectiveDave‌ ...funny you mention the Radar ARTP (or what some refer to as the "sandal"). It has that very thick ergonomic footbed. In measuring that, it only falls 1/8" thinner than my front Reflex...which could be easily remedied with a plastic shim. My issue is that I really don't like those bungeed tongue/overlays on the "adjustables" since they flex too much. My backup plan to all of this is to canabalize that binding (with the help of a razor and dremel) and install a conventional overlay on it ...but I digress.

@MattP‌ not sure I understand your question. The vinyl flooring tile I'm looking at presumably will cut w/ a razor knife. Since I'm planning on putting it on top of the plate, it doesn't need to be 14" long (the full length of the plate). I'm a size 8.5 shoe. I'm thinking about making a "pad" roughly the same length as the one posted in my picture....with a layer of grip tape on top. Bummer is the 18"x18"tiles are only sold in packages of 6 for $30....and I only need one. If it works, I'll certainly send you one. Seems HD only stocks them in their larger stores.

I would consider including that photo as a supplement to the report you filed w/ the airline.... let them see the "effect" of their "cause"

Damn....was it the vinyl one I linked to above ?? It didn't seem like it would compress as it is designed to have washing machines on top of it. There was another option there that didn't seem as durable. This... homedepot.com/p/Multy-Home-Black-16-5-in-x-16-5-in-Activity-Floor-6-Pack-MT1002497/203433570 The other variable is whether it (spacer material) is installed above or below the aluminum plate. My thought is if it is riding on top of the plate...it will be less likely to compress...or at least compress more slowly...and also allow the aluminum plate to do its job (flexing)...

I was also concerned about the lack of flex in the HDPE. Another idea floating in my head is to use a piece or pieces of rubber that are pliable, but not compressible. Attached is a pic of an RTP I use from parts I had for the Sequence plate kit. The pebble pad (that sits on top of the plate) was a bit slippery for my tastes, so I flipped it over and put grip tape on it. My goal is to have both feet on the same plane. I'm using a front reflex with an insole in it, and thus I need to build this current rtp up 3/8". Most rubber I have found is compressible. One item that might work is some rubber workspace floor tiles (18" x18") I found at home depot. They are 3/16" thick, so would use two of them in the same manner as in the rtp photo to creat a new "footbed" to put on top of the aluminum plate and also support the black plastic toe bar on either side, and would not restrict the rear plate from flexing. homedepot.com/p/Multy-Home-Utility-Charcoal-18-in-x-18-in-Vinyl-Flooring-6-pack-MT1002294/203071085 Hopefully this makes sense? I was going to make reference the show "MacGyver", but not sure Matt is old enough to get the joke.

@DefectiveDave‌... I have almost the exact same binding set up to you and have been watching this topic closely. Just wondering if you gave any consideration to mounting a shorter piece of 3/8" thick HDPE on top of the aluminum plate...then covering the top of it w/ the 3m grit paper? Obviously would require that you obtain 6 longer screws for the rear toe bars since they would have to go through the HDPE. Anyway, this is my current experimental plan (ordered a piece of black HDPE earlier today). The theory being that it will (hopefully) allow the plate to still flex...since the roughly 11" long piece of HDPE (instead of 14") will be screwed in from the underside of the plate only in the front section, and everything rear of the toe bars will "float". Not sure yet whether I will striate the HDPE w/ those flex cuts (like you and Matt have done)...but will post pix in a week or so after messing around w/ it.

With the full cutouts, I am assuming that the striated relief cuts allow water to drain out, rather than collect in the "cut-outs"?

tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/king_starboard/526

Looks good, Matt....sorta reminds me of the sole on those Reebok running shoes. Anxious to hear how it works out on the water for you. I found a site online that sells black Starboard HDPE (in various thickness) cut to size. Looks like approx. $10 for 6" x 14" piece.

a prominent skier/coach was at our lake last weekend. I marveled that his liner is 75% held together with "Alabama Chrome"

To quote the Black Knight...."its just a flesh wound". Your loyalty towards that liner is admirable.

...and is the loop big enough to pass the handle thru?

Any Reflex users see any issues/concerns with chamfering into a G10 Reflex front plate?

Just curious as to whether there are any significant changes between the few model years of the TXi ?? I've got two unsolicited people inquiring to buy my boat (03 Rlxi 550hrs)... even though its not for sale. I probably won't do anything, but if I do, I need something to balance skiing and family time/cruising on lake. Thanks.

@Camiflo Since you are skiing on a Siren, I'm assuming you likely are a woman. If you are a Women's size 7, you probably are out of luck w/ the Stradas. For reference, my daughter is a Women's 8, and is just able to ski in double Strada sz 8's (the smallest size made). We heated/puffed up the liners in the oven and also put Powerstep insoles inside the liners (which take up some space).

Agreed, which is why I am so interested to hear how Matt's experiment (of raising the entire rear plate onto same plane) turns out. As you point out, inserting the heel lift had the opposite effect of what I was looking for. "Counter Intuitive" & "Muscle Memory" ....the two terms which makes an already difficult sport all that more difficult

Matt, please keep us updated w/ your findings/experiments. @gregy I experimented last year w/ wedging up the heel of my rtp (with intentions to get more on the balls of feet and front of ski). In my experience anyway, I found too big (1/2" or more) of a wedge to be counter-productive to what I was trying to accomplish. It forced too much bend and softness in rear knee, which resulted in tendency to lock front knee and tail ride. I settled on a very slight wedge of only about 1/4".

@onamission An obstacle is what you see when you take your eyes off the goal...Stay Strong

Can't wait til next year so my daughter can pull me. Need to be 16 w/ boater's license in N.H. I've been grooming her for the job for some time. Nothing worse than being on vacation at the lake, staring at glass... w/ no driver.