jjackkrash

Tom B. skis/coaches with Alan Hendricks in Greenville Texas. At least he did when I was a club member there a few years back. That guy could run 39 when it was so windy I did not even want to ride in the boat.

The right ceramic coatings have excellent UV protection. So does 303 but you need to reapply it a lot. A physical cover/shade is the best best. I would not assume wax has any uv protection unless you get a synthetic that specifically says its got UV protection. Babes Boat Bright claims UV protection but I am not sure how much.

Are you saying FW went all Hanover Fiste on the officials? FW is a fan favorite as well as one of my favorites, and someone I consider an absolute class act, but these three pictures imply he completely lost his shit and aggressively crossed some lines. Even if the officials made some bad mistakes, I can still see a little time in the penalty box if he really was that aggressive. I also agree the whole situation sucks.

I bought a stokes suit last year. I am happy with it. And there are not that many other reasonably priced options.

I am firmly in the "if it's on the margin go bigger" camp.

Yup. I bought my boat 'cause I wanted it. No other reason needed.

I'll add, rotary and wool pads for tough jobs, gear driven mechanical and wool pads and then foam for most other jobs and finishing, random orbital and foam pads for fine polishing. If I had one tool to use for a boat it would be a gear driven orbital like Rupes Mille or Flex XC 3401.

I am going to give the switch a go. Fingers crossed.

SiO2 is a ceramic sealant. Interesting they call it wax.

I got my new boot and plate from Wiley's Saturday and it feels to me like I'm coming out in a good fall. My boy agrees, so we are sticking with the Carbon plate. We'll see I guess.

When I am done polishing the gelcoat, pretty much any sealant like a good Collinite wax is going to make the surface very slippery. I suspect the same will be true of a good ceramic sealant, especially one designed to be used as a topcoat or that has an SiC formula (as opposed to SiO2).

On a car they can get really slick depending on the top coat you use. I have not used these products on gelcoat yet.

Ugg. So much history in that location.

I have already told Darren he is not allowed to retire. So it must be a welcome-back-from-retirement party tomorrow.

I am first owner, 2021 SN.

I don't believe any two people will get the exact same numbers measuring the same ski even with the same set of calipers unless it's an accident, let alone measuring different skis of the same model with a different set of calipers. So I personally believe you are close enough for a starting point.

If there was theft involved, please encourage the team to check all potential insurance policies, including club insurance, boat insurance, school insurance, whatever.

I run my SN on public water. Not all the time, but a good chunk of the time.

I just got a new vapor boot for my boy on a single carbon plate with RTP. I am getting the same setup likely next week (and moving from older double vapors on a carbon plate). So is the consensus even with it lightly laced you (i.e., the insert) are not coming out like the older carbitex model? I really do not want to use a mechanical release for a lot of reasons, but now I have my concerns. Ugg.

Is this funding to cover one-time ramp-moving/capital expenses or is new funding needed for every year?

My boy skied this weekend (first set of the year) and had no issues with the transition to the new boot or placement. We may play with micro adjustments when it's a little warmer but solid start for sure. Thanks all, for the help (especially @ColeGiacopuzzi).

It's interesting. I tore it all apart and took measurements with the rtp off and got a stock setting/measurement from the base of the boot to the rear of the ski using squares and whatnot to get the best measurement possible. I placed it at the stock setting and took a baseline measurement from the rear of the carbon plate, per the tip above. Cole's settings are 1/8 of an inch longer than stock. Which, at the end of the day, put the microadjusters at dead-bang zero (the exact middle adjustment) on the plate. I think the Radar folks are playing a gag on me. LOL. 🙂

Here to here is 29&3/8 from end of slot to back of ski. All good or try again?

So, not the actual rear of the slot but a straight line from the rear (bottom) of the boot out to some point on the slot? Then measure from there to the back of the ski?