dbutcher

By using cotton liners under the Camaro gloves and ski gloves over the top, my Camaros lasted all winter and still look new. I think the Camaro gloves have titanium in them (because of their name) so they don't wear out like neoprene.

I tried the Camaros without the liners but they slipped on the skin of my hands. The ski gloves did not slip on the Camaros, but the Camaros slipped on my hands without the liners. Warm hands more than compensate for the thickness for me. Numb hands don't hang on to the handle either.

@prettig for warm hands - Camaro Titanium seamless 1mm gloves. Wear liners, then the Camaro gloves, then your regular ski gloves. The liners keep the Camaro gloves from slipping on your hands, and your regular ski gloves over the Camaros keep the Camaros from wearing prematurely. Grip is normal if you can adjust to the extra thickness. I don't know if Camaro gloves are readily available where you are, but they are in the U.S.

Ski it Again SIA 36176 and SIA25412, both in Arkansas.

@WBLskier I wear a wet suit hood when the water is cold, and also when the air is cold. They help prevent the "ice cream" headache. Some hoods are better than others. I don't like the ones that cause you to not be able to hear. Eagle has become my favorite.

@ntx if I were getting a new 200, I would definitely go with the 5.3 over the 5.7. My first choice, if I had the money, would be the 6.2 even though I don't jump. The 5.7 is darn good, but it's old technology with mixed metals. PCM and Nautique historically have been VERY GOOD about having a new product ready before it's released. I wouldn't hesitate a moment on either the 5.3 or the 6.2. One thing I like about the 6.2 over the old 6.0 is the cooling system. If I interpret the PCM website correctly, the 6.2 (and the 5.3) have full fresh water cooling. No antifreeze. The antifreeze system on the 6.0's has not been a problem for anyone that I've heard of, but it's just one more thing you have to check and maintain. Others on this forum no doubt know more than I. If the 5.3 has the torque and HP it's supposed to have, any hard pulls after the second wake (in slalom) is likely a ZO problem, not a 5.3 problem. I don't know if all of the new single puck issues have been resolved. I'm sure they will be though.

I'm not sure, but a quick look at Nautique's web site implies that the 5.7 is not even offered in the 200 for 2016. Historically, Nautique has let their promo people choose whatever AWSA tested engine that is available. My guess is that most will choose the 5.3.

Have you considered hanging your boat from the lifting rings? It seems like that might be the least expensive, and you don't have to worry about gel coat blisters.

You are not old. Get after it.

My guess as to why they exist - a kill switch or safety cut off switch is a pretty good legal defense for a boat manufacturer that gets sued by a boat driver who got thrown out without the lanyard attached. Manufacturers get paranoid about product liability, and who can blame them?

I just noticed that your cable is still stiff with the rudder disconnected. It may be time to replace. It still doesn't take long to squirt three shots of grease.

It's worth a try to grease the rudder before giving up and installing a new cable. A friend of mine has a 2012 SN 200 that steered great until one day it didn't. I found out that he hadn't greased the rudder for a long, long time. Three or four shots of grease, and it drove great again. The rudder should be greased every time you change oil, or more often if your bilge is wet. A dry bilge is a huge key to long life of a lot of boat parts.

Two 50 lb. shot bags with handles are infinitely adjustable for boat level, more convenient, and much faster. Nothing wrong with the ballast tank though.

If the lake doesn't have to be drained for the new road, maybe it can be bought - cheap. The DOT might be glad to get rid of the liability exposure.

Can M8 and older - 30mph skiers- participate? If so, how are they scored? Thanks.

If it's cold or cool, warming rubber bindings with hot water makes them more flexible and easier to get on (with soap or other lube too). A hot water boat shower works best, but dumping hot water on them from a cooler works too.

@ToddL My weight is unchanged.

Perception, right or wrong, often becomes reality for some skiers. I am not scientific, but I know this. As water cools, I begin to struggle to get wide on the slalom course. As the water cools even more, I can't run my shorter line lengths. At that time I switch to my 69.5" ski from my 68.5" ski. Normal width on the slalom course returns. Thus, my perception (and reality) is that cold water has more drag. The bigger ski helps me enjoy water skiing all winter. Fun is what this sport is for.

@Lieutenant Dan that's it.

Packing stretch wrap is what I use - the Home Depot kind. Lowe's has it too. I couldn't think of what it was called on my earlier post. It's on a roll with a handle.

I've heard that people can get 20 year loans on these high dollar boats.

Saran wrap works great on ankles and wrists. I also use a spray leg on both legs just to protect the suit. Additionally, I use a strap at the ankle on my rear leg. And I use Saran wrap at the top of the spray legs to keep them from slipping down. It takes me 20 minutes to get ready to ski, but it's worth it.

Full suit. The Camaro 2.0 Blacktech full suit is so comfortable and non-restrictive you forget you have it on. Yet you are warm with water in the 40's. There's no reason to wear a shorty and leave parts of your body exposed to the cold water.

For me at least it depends upon the boat speed. The slower the speed, the longer you wait before changing edges. The 36 mph skiers that I have watched change edges during the wake crossing if not sooner. Slower speeds change progressively later. My two cents worth.

Not an Okie, but check owsf.org.