dbutcher

Hats off to USA Waterski. I got a corrected Nationals medal in the mail today. The medal manufacturer made the error.

I had a 2014 Prostar on which I had to tighten the bolts that go through the tracking fin almost everytime I used it. I soon figured out a way to tighten them without having to have a second person to help. I ended up double nutting those bolts, and that helped. I often went a month w/o tightening after that. I am unimpressed with the design. I was concerned that the holes through the hull would get wallowed out and start leaking, but they never did while I had the boat.

It may be hidden in the bilge, somewhere around the lower part of the pylon on the underside of the boat floor- zip tied where it is hard to see.

I have one that I might let go of. It was used a couple months this spring and a couple weeks this fall. It is a 2017. Send me a private message if you are interested.

A level boat is important to me as a driver and as a slalom skier. It makes a difference in the wake crossing from side to side, especially at the slow speed at which I ski (30.4 mph). An extra little wake bounce may make the difference between my making or not making the next buoy at my shortest line length. Since a level boat is so easy to achieve, why not do it. In my SN200, one 50lb bag properly placed levels the boat no matter who is driving/riding. It takes very little effort or time to get it placed properly, and it is infinitely adjustable. A level boat also drives better. A level boat responds more consistently to pulls from either side, and the driver's sight picture is more consistent. Or so it seems to me.

Can they make it sound like an inboard V8 coming across the lake at sun-up?

A couple wraps with a shrink wrap like material or any thin, flexible, plastic wrap around the bottom of the legs will stop the back leg from filling up with water. It comes on a spool with a handle. You can buy it at Home Depot or Lowe's and probably other places. It also protects the wetsuit material from water spray damage. It doesn't put pressure on your leg like a strap will.

I'm not sure, but I think page 30 applies to tournament supplied handles only.

2002 was the first year for that hull. The wake was different from preceding years and subsequent years. If you end up continuing to ski behind it, you will get used to it and forget all about it in time.

Check with an expert before you straight pipe it. I believe (but I'm no expert) that there are sensors that measure temperature, oxygen levels, etc. from the catalytic converters for use by the ECM. I used to own a '14 Prostar, and I believe the warranty was five years from the date it was put in service as a new boat.

Catalytic converter????? Isn't the warranty 5 years?

Page 23 of the AWSA Towboat Manual.

In theory, old boats are more likely to break down during a tournament. This could cause delay or perhaps a worse issue if the breakdown happened during a highly competitive Record or Cash Prize tournament. Perhaps that's why new boats are required in Record tournaments but not in Class C and below. I'd be interested in hearing the AWSA towboat committee's thinking on the issue. Contrary to popular opinion, there are usually pretty good reasons behind AWSA rules and policies, and recently AWSA has demonstrated more flexibility than ever before. I recognize the shortage of promo boats in most of the U.S. so I sympathize with tournament sponsors. I write this only because there are at least two sides to every story. I don't have a dog in the fight.

You can buy all the parts necessary at a good hardware store. No pump needed - just use engine RPM's to push the water to the shower head. Use a Y like you put on a hose faucet to mix hot and cold water to get the temperature you want. Cost should be under $50. Wash machine hoses work for the supply lines (with some modifications).

Maybe it was USAW'S supplier that made a mistake, and USAWS did not catch it. I compared my 2010 medal to my 2017 medal, and they are very, very similar except that the 2010 medal does say NATIONAL WATER SKI CHAMPIONSHIPS on the back. They look like they could have been made by the same company. I'm guessing that the intent was to have Nationals on the medals. I don't know what happened or who to blame - if anyone.

I skied at that Slidell lake from 1982 through 1987 and never saw a gator.

Transom tie downs prevent a boat from getting thrown up on the trailer fender if you're going too fast, turn too short, and hit a curb with the trailer wheel.

@skispray I haven't made one yet using trot line, but when I do it will be individual pieces of trot line - four or five on each side. Knots should hold up just fine if you get them tight, and there will be no sharp edges like zip ties. I dull zip tie ends with a grinder, but they are still a little sharp. I don't like sharp edges even though I've never had any part of my body come in contact with them on a handle guard.

I use a screen like plastic mesh tied with zip ties as tight as I can get them. I've been told that tying the guard in place with trot line works even better.

Yes it would be logical. I expect there will be continued controversy about this rule over the coming winter.

I have a 2017 67" Senate Lithium. I weigh 195 lbs. I'm 73 yrs. old so I ski at 30mph. I start at 28 off and get into 38 off. When our water here got warm (over 80F), I began to struggle to get wide (a 69" might be better in hot water and even in really cold water). The 67" Senate turns very well for me. My next step is to try it without a brake. Maybe then I will get wide again. I forgot to try that before I went back to the ski that I used before getting the Senate. I have a 2015 69" Lithium Vapor that definitely gets me across the course in any temperature water. The 67" Senate turns a little better. If there is any way possible, try them both to see which one you like best. You probably won't go wrong with either. I have no idea if the Senate will change for 2018.

When I had teak platforms, I did nothing to them. Teak oil made them more slippery than I wanted.

I know your engine is long out of warranty, but I wonder if a friendly call to PCM would have any value. It's remotely possible that PCM has had a recall on this vintage engine or is aware of a problem that they might be willing to help you with. It doesn't seem like your engine should have failed like this so early in its expected life (unless it was run low on oil or otherwise abused). Alternatively, PCM may have a suggestion on repair. If memory serves, PCM has in the past rebuilt engines that were replaced under warranty and had the rebuilts for sale at a good price. A Nautique dealer may have ideas for you too.

There is at least one SAE 15W-40 diesel oil that says right on its bottle "For use in all gasoline automotive engines currently in use where a SAE 15W-40 that meets API SN is specified." It is Traveller brand sold at Tractor Supply. It's manufactured exclusively for Tractor Supply, and it's about $1 per quart less expensive than the majors. It comes in gallons and quarts. I've never used it, and I know nothing more about it. I am going to try it next oil change however.

I'm 73, and probably no one is more set in their slalom ways than I. I used a rear toe piece and drug my back leg for years. I switched to double boots after my back foot came out going through the gates at Nationals some years ago. Dragging the back leg was always much easier for me. I prefer it to this day even though I don't do it anymore. If you have developed issues getting up with one foot out, you have changed something in the way you get up. Perhaps you are no longer keeping your ski in front of you with your knee bent. Hamstrings get stressed when your upper body goes forward while your leg is locked straight. Keeping your ski leg in your chest (knee has to be bent) should prevent you from being pulled out the front as long as the ski tip stays above the water. If you continue to have problems, it is not impossible to switch to getting up with both feet in. It may take a while to get comfortable, but you can do it.