BraceMaker

@bananaron and then there is also spread or boot spacing. Did you move both or just front?

You might skip the "hardcore" and go with the CBO version if you like the HRT's movement. Its just a softer wrap

Your crash powerfully reminds me of a bit of Freddie's commentary from the San Gervasio this year. Atleast to me what I'm seeing is that you moved your bindings rearwards which removes support in the tail and then you moved your upper body in and off the ski in the turn so the force holding the ski down went away and it slid out. I would think instead you'd bump both bindings forwards a 1/16 from the initial 29.5 which might require slotting your holes. And then personally if you can borrow a CG fin from someone in the correct foot forwards position and install it. I've been extremely pleased with the outcome. I'm sure there are other methods but on these skis I think they're a benefit. Just opinion there.

If you were going to pull this off I think clearly you approach a roller coaster manufacturer and you have the track suspended above like an inverted rollercoaster with a cart running below it above the water surface. Track could be shaped like a dog bone and have two parallel runs with the pylon offset to run down the middle and you could have two carts that alternated down the lake. The power requirement would be drastically reduced and it would get all sedimented up. You could have lights for night skiing. Starting docks on both ends. Figure out how to have the carts charge like electric go karts and have some form of rack or gear drive on each kart so the skier could have their own speed settings I think it would work and not be that technically challenging but youd need to do this at some sort or extremely high volume training center and it would need to be near a huge human population probably something like houston warm enough to be used year round

https://www.cableski.org/Rules.asp Its a mute point however in the US I'm not aware of a single cable park here that has the ability to pull it I've been to a few parks and they can only go about 20-22 mph on the cable and are far smaller than required for a course to be installed. It works like IWWF slalom 15' until you reach a divisional speed, and then they have 34 and 36 mph - but again cannot do that in the states unless there is a park I am unaware of with those speeds. Skiing the cable is very different I've only trick skied on it and I've done that a number of times but for instance my local place the cable runs most of the day at just over 20mph, they slow it down for a few small bits of the day but that's down to 16mph its like adult swim at the pool for 15 minutes. I don't normally ride my trick ski at 16 or 20 so its either fast and slippery or slow and loose. I'm sure a top slalom skier could do OK at cable slalom because they're athletes - Joel Poland would probably slay it. But I don't think there is much in the way of carry over even on the trick ski the muscles even are extremely different.

Watch some video of it. Very different.

The syndicate omni is essentially a blend of the CX superlight and the TX they had two of the hybrid tail skis averaged them together and bang omni.

Eyes open is important. I know people who ball up and go underwater including the skis but thats for show. Eyes up look down go down. I didnt invent the tail weights but HO sells them. Oh well keep at it.

Force is their old school cast 4 blade. Legend is their old school.cast 3 blade. Their newer CNC products are the xmp edge wake pro and ski pro lines. The force would be cheaper.

@jjackkrash if that was CNG gimme some.

You either have motor oil or atf. Keep with what its had

Are any of the boats in the European tours running on CNG or are they all running gasoline for these events? I know many of these sites have their boats converted to dual fuel. Just curious if any of the sites don't have the petrol.

Correct since the timing of the actual spark relates to the gap opening up far enough that the spark plug gap is more attractive than the points gap. Points set to open less have more angle and will spark a bit later than ones set to open more but they if they open more they close later which means lower dwell and less charging so you have to balance the both. While I'm a dwell tiger is you can monitor changes in the points by monitoring the dwell angle over time. Where as when you cannot measure points gap while its running.

Its not suppress but if you want to think about anything I would tell you to look at the back of the drivers head or stare at the top of the boat's window, grip with your hands "squeeze" the handle, and then as the boat pulls think about getting ready to stand up out of a squat tighten your core and butt and hip muscles and just hold while it pulls or maybe even think squeezing your butt cheeks up to the handle (no pulling in arms no straightening knees just squeeze your hips towards your hands through the pull up.

Representation of what a tail wait does to the ski by itself No weight, would want to float - you have to press the ski under water. Perfect weight for 2 skiing - tails sink but ski overall wants to sit at the correct attitude for starts. Perfect weight for a single drop ski - tail is quite heavy stands the ski up in the water paint the tip bright orange add reflective tape and you can shine a flashlight out at dusk and find it in case someone does a barefoot step off on that evening glass.

Its not a problem with skis its a crutch to help people learn.The trouble is done right getting up on skis is crazy easy just watch all those people effortlessly getting up on one ski or barefoot or on trickskis. So why is it so DANGED hard to learn? Because you aren't working with the boat. Your goal is to sit yourself there in the water in a stable position with the skis between you and the boat your arms straight and your body balled up and then let the boat pull you up on the skis. So long as you do your job you'll be up and skiing. So for learning we want to get rid of obstructions. So I keep the instruction painfully simple. You want to sit there in the water with your arms straight your knees bent with your heels by your butthole. And as the boat pulls you just want to hold on and ride the skis up. You don't want to get your shoulders pulled forwards and you don't want to push on your feet because then your knees straighten out and the skis go vertical and the handle gets pulled out of your hands because water is going to win. So stick drawings. Position 1 - head up arm straight back straight hips and knees flexed. Think like you're doing a squat. This is easier to do if the skis have some tail weight to them because they are easier to control if the tails aren't trying to float up. Since your ankles are really almost always at 90 degrees to your feet the skis in option 1 are angled in the water so the pressure of the water pushes you up and out of the water. When the tails try to float you try to hold them from floating to hold them in place and keep yourself from being rolled over as the tails float up people end up straightening their knees so that the skis are in front of them not under them. Picture B, when the boat starts pulling you and you start pushing on the skis you extend the hips and straighten the knees and since your ankles again are at 90 degrees to the skis the skis go vertical and the push against the skis crushes you and pulls the handle down to the ski. If you hold position 1 I promise you that you can get up on 2 skis one handed or get up on a slalom ski or a trick ski. Every so often I'll get caught by my driver by surprise and get up 1 handed on a slalom ski - again its just not that hard if you're in the right spot.

Different ways, HO skis makes weights that they sell that screw into the fin block holes. I happened to have a few sections of 1/4" steel plate so I just took a fin out marked the holes and then drilled them out and rounded off the edges. dipped them in plastidip and used longer screws. You could also use about any type of weight with some sticky tape stuck to the tail of the ski. It just really makes the skis behave a lot better. Those easy up ropes and connected skis just don't work all you need is weighted tails to make the skis sit properly.

With 2 skis you really should add tail weight. enough that if you throw the skis in the water they float mostly tips up. They have these cheap chintzy bindings and the tails like to float you have no control over long floaty skis. tail weights make the skis behave properly and drastically improve the experience. That said I've switched from even trying the two skis with anyone to they just go right onto the Hovercraft. People get up by accident.

Bingo. for most of the engines the steering is the same, the wiring there are adapter harnesses for most or at worst the new engine comes with a loom and you have to string it and replace some gauges. And then the throttle cables and throttle assembly either you get adapter ends and run what you have or again its like 2-3 hours of work most of which is cutting zip ties and neatening up. I spent more time finding bolts with the right thread pitch to adapt my harmonic pulley balancer to hang the engine than I did actually replacing the controls. But you buy an old 2 smoke outboard mount it find out the oil injector is bypassed have to mix fuel blah blah.

https://www.bakesonline.com/media/resourcelibrary/MedallionII_Troubleshoot.pdf

Yes those are the speedo calibration switches. The whole MDC gauge fiasco was simply because to be a AWSA approved towboat you needed two adjustable speedos. Airguide said they were done making them and they were really the only adjustable ones on the market so there would be no boat meeting the AWSA spec. Medallion said they could do it and have electronic rocker switches. So yes try arrowing up those rocker switches I know in MC world they can cause a gauge to not work at all.

Just make sure the engine isn't a turd. Been there done that oh I won't need to rewire or change the controls.... bad lower end, bad compression, won't run. And if its an older 2 stroke and you're paying don't chase a deal and end up paying twice. Buy once cry once.

In case you were seriously asking used to be that your spark plugs were fired by a switch called the points that lived inside the distributor, when they close the coil is grounded and charges up with electricity and when they open the electricity jumps out of the coil through the wires to the spark plug. The dwell meter measured the number of degrees of rotation that the points were closed. So if you have a V8 the rotor in the distributor turns 1 time for every time all 8 cylinders spark 1 time. So 360 degrees divided by 8 means every 45 degrees of rotation the points open and a spark fires. But they take a few degrees to open and close so the spec would be something like 25-30 degrees so you'd whip out the dwell meter and the timing light and you'd get your dwell to spec by adjusting the points using the dwell meter and then you'd retime the engine. Fun stuff. But there were always two types of people the dwell meter and the feeler gauge. I've always been a dwell meter user and my dad's in the feeler gauge camp. In both you're trying to adjust the points to open enough for a clean spark but closed long enough to charge the coil. (dwell meter is clearly better) Nearly every ski boat moved off points by the mid-90s. MC I think went electronic from the factory somewhere around 90/91.

One speedo or 2? There are of course adjuster buttons somewhere on your boat as well for the speedos. This could vary but the whole point of the medallions was that airguide speedos were NLA and they needed two adjustable speedometers for tournament boats to be approved. So most of these boats have rocker switches somewhere on the boat. This means there are two things you need to find, A - where are the rocker switches find them and tap the up button a number of times and see if your gauge comes on. And B: in this application usually there were two speedos one got pulled to install the PP, but there should be two speedos and technically they should both be separately adjustable with rocker switches, so there is probably a second wiring harness loom behind the dash for the speedo. If so I would switch it over and verify.

Try ebay usually you can find something local pick up for 50 bucks. Get a cheap pair, paint the tips bright orange, stick some of that 3M tape reflective tape on them - and buy or make tail weights. Install enough weight that when the ski isn't on the tip sticks up in the air so you can find your ski. This also helps the skier learn because they don't get turned sideways in the water the skis actually point upwards by themselves.