BraceMaker

@markn my take away is that if there are 7000 reports this year and only 38% resulted in administrative closures that's nearly 4500 cases on which they imposed a sanction

Guess it depends what they seemed like, I've had carbon laminations where when they were removed from the mold there were dry fibers where the resin didn't fully saturate an area. Those laminates are failed and need to be discarded. But then again if you're working with carbon braids and cutting it with scissors around product those little whiskers tend to stick to things and move around so potentially someone was unrolling fabric and cutting it in the same place that they were assembling final skis and some of the fibers got transferred into the slot at assembly or were stuck to the fin and inserted through the ski? Certainly there should be no fibers looking like that unsaturated and part of the ski.

@skialex not sure if you have something like this in europe but we have several companies like https://sendcutsend.com/ that water jet and laser cut materials. So you draw up what you need using a free software like onshape (note the drawing below was a ~10 second sketch where I didn't constrain or dimension anything if you were going to do this you would actually take measurements and lay out some construction lines with real measurements from your ski) Then you export it from there to a cutting service.... You can have whatever shape you want with the holes you want (for the ski inserts, for the boot?) you can add countersinks to things like aluminum plate or just do it yourself. And you can make those oblonged or slots. Point being very easy to make yourself custom binding plates for ~30 bucks in about 1 beers worth of taking dimensions w/ a caliper.

Its also just an LED if all you want is to read the codes.

Easier to get back in place dry than wet in my experience and then you can take some nylon thread and do a little X pattern tack stitch in the corners that move.

It may flash off overtime

Take Luzz up. You won't be dissapointed.

@swbca Actually what you've done replicates where I got the idea originally my neighbor has a 4x4 with a keel roller bolted to it. Just one of these and he adjusted it up so it basically touches the keel and hits the skeg at the same time. I would have stolen it but on my lift the front of the bunk isn't that close to my front skeg so I needed something that would need to come back over a foot to hit the front skeg before my prop hits.

I think the idea is you buy it and he restores the boat for 10K?

Wade Cox calls non-matching gear cross dressing. My front hardshell is a boot on another brand's release plate with another company's rear on a ski from another company using liners from a different brand all together my vest comes from a different brand and the gloves I use match my rear boot but not my ski or my vest. Unless someone is paying you to use their stuff use what fits and feels good.

Correct but the PVC can bend pretty easily so its not a hard hit. We don't power into it, but as you come onto the lift eventually you bump it and then crank up. Its a lot better to bump a fin than hit the prop into the lift.

Skip the laminated wood - we've always just done this with PVC pipe across the lift cradle using a U bolt. ours is 3" has enough give that if you come in a smidge hot it isn't a hard stop. But is stiff enough to prevent too much forward motion.

Looking straight isn't really good enough very small run out issues will thrum badly. It also sort of sucks because there isn't an easy way to mount a dial indicator (nothing magnetic under the boat) but if you have a decently sized C-Clamp you can clamp a dial indicator to the strut. I usually pull the prop and measure behind the strut just in front of the prop, again in front of the strut and then a final time inside the boat boat where you can typically reach if you have a mag base stuck to the transmission. Or if you have a set of rollers obviously taking the shaft out is best. I bet your shaft has a bend in it and that bend is sometimes inside the boat.

Other I'd say is rear plate straight but heel free.

@buechsr yup its the double edged sword, getting to use the greens and the gates and having mini course is excellent because they can work on all those other moves and timing. But you're locked into width. There are other ways to learn the course by moving the boat, and having drills take one shadow 2 3 4 5 take 6 etc.

With out adding balls the technique is to drive down just outside of the boat guides, the skier goes around the turn ball and the opposite boat guide marker for a total course width of 12.65m or 6.325m I would say that it does feel quite narrow but it is convenient that it overlaps the 6.4m recommendation as you could just put in an official disability course dimension which is cool. Double edged sword if you've skied around the mini course it doesn't have the dynamics quite but then if you're splitting the difference you get pretty close to just going for the whole course anyway.

It sort of looks like the fracture was during the front flip when his ski leaves the water for the second time.

I have a few from different brands they're all fine. But after watching a Harry's Garage video (great if you're into classic cars and motorcycles) I've started using Ctek Their vehicle side connectors : https://smartercharger.com/collections/accessories/products/ctek-comfort-connect-indicator-eyelet : have LED charge indicators. I've started adding these to my stuff and there is nothing like walking past your lawn tractor and going hmm that needs a top up to keep your stuff working just last night I charged my motorcycle and I've been adding these to the batteries on everything I own.

I think you'll find that customs should be paid or rather is due. Some companies play games like "used sporting equipment" but either they should have collected it and had you pay them or UPS is probably owed.

http://i-carve.com/snowboard_hard_and_soft_boots/mountain_slope_point_951_standard

Thats always a good question Connelly made a ton of these skis

Quite the shock tube too

He lose his dewalt?

Make sure to wet your RTP and foot and see how far you can work it up. After mine broke in my toe was banging. I spent time modifying but it stretched a bit and my foot moved up.