BraceMaker

There's a place locally that manufacturers aluminum parts for a welding shop. They make a stamping that's many parts together on a sheet and then its waterjet into individual components that are welded into assemblies. Because of the waterjet's accuracy some of the issues with the parts maybe having slight deformation is zero'd out because the weld margins are so accurately cut.

Most every filter you can buy it with or with out an antidrain back valve the Ford FL-1A from motorcraft doesn't have one but there are aftermarkets like Mobil 1 and Baldwin come with it. So if you're obsessed you might prime by pushing that valve flap open filling the filter and then installing it which would be the work around. Personally if you've run the engine to get the thing hot and then drain it you're not going to have any oil in the whole system but everything is wet. I would just install and run it. On one of my old BMW's the instructions re: the cam chain tensioner which was oil pressurized was once you finished changing it, start the engine and immediately rev the engine and hold it till the tensioner popped out. I'll tell you that gives you the feels.

I think the point would be if a ski has a resonant frequency which of course it does everything does then the fin block and fin are going to act like a tuner so you're introducing a variable that a few thousandths of DFT is probably going to introduce more change than the ski likely undergoes in its lifetime. That's where I feel that if the real recommendation is resonant frequency tester the first step is simply figure out what the scale of Hz is for the skis is it 20 hz? 200? 2000? 2e10?

Its easy to see the value. If your ski still checks out your wife won't let you buy a new one. But see honey I've lost 23% of the initial rebound.

@Horton right to me what you're describing is almost more of a rebound tester. You're sort of viewing the ski like a bow limb drawing it back and releasing it booooiiiinnnnngggggg and then you'd read like initial acceleration and how long it vibrated and at what frequency. Its perhaps less resonance than a simply a dynamic version of a flex test, what I'm visualizing would be to vary the frequency and map the ski which in theory would vibrate in different ways in different zones at different inputs which if we don't really have a clue what the skis are doing when they go bad or if they are actually doing anything then I'm thinking kind of like this, but upside down and at higher frequencies with less displacement. Which is why I think avoiding the inserts is probably a good thing because you wouldn't want to damage it but you could fairly easily grab the last 2" of the ski.

Maybe I'm missing the point here but the theory as I see it is that the typical flex testing of a ski doesn't really show break down that might be shown if you had more of a high frequency or resonant frequency test. As I see it you want to take a blank ski no bindings no tapes no fin box, design something that holds the ski with minimal to no support and induces a vibration. Like vibration generator suspended from a beam with a clamp that grabbed the very tail of the ski maybe with a tab that when through the fin slot and then a rubber U shaped clamp. You'd then fire up the vibration generator and sweep up and down a range of Hz and record the ski with a laser doppler vibrometer and plot the data. You could then take skis and test them and ask the skier to report their perception of the ski and record what its frequencies looked like.

Anything flat tapet which I think a GT40 still would be I tend to use the Valvoline VR1 products easy to find and high zinc. I've also used products from other brands like Brad Penn and belray but you can get vr1 at auto zone so it's a clear winner.

Just glad the binding lube wasn't on the bedside table.....

They're just screws being run far looser than they would be if it was a stainless screw into a stainless nut. That amount of torque will rip the inserts out of the ski. But you do have options. Loc-tite "hardens" when it doesn't have air. There is a purple version which is perfect for our application but you don't want it down in the core of the ski. Get dialed in and then one screw at a time at the end of the day put a tiny drop of purple loc-tite about half way up the screw and install it. Its low strength but they won't back out.

@chrislandy I disagree about their control system being public, ZO patents are aging I've been watching but so far haven't seen anything that clearly indicates that an ESC version would be covered by their patents either. PP might be sitting on versions of their product that would run a mechanical motor potentiometer. The AWSA boat rules also don't specify ZO, if any of the big 3 boat manufacturers had been running a mechanical throttle boat in 2008 PP could have kept equipping boats for tournaments it was only that all the current boats were DBW equipped that squeezed PP. So atleast as I see it right now if there was a tournament hull electric boat running stargazer it could pass the boat test and be an AWSA towboat. Would be good for the sport IMHO to have a competitor.

How do you like that feature board?

There was a guy Mike Gorzack? Had the files in a SharePoint online they are out there somewhere and there is a guy in Minnesota will cut them Peter tiresplease@gmail.com

We struggle with that too the lake we're on is connected to a chain that is boatable for over 70 miles and when we have a group of people skiing we do use a pontoon or 2 different ski boats. Figuring out if anyone can share skis is key, removing bindings helps like if you have trick skis plural can you rotate the rear binding and share one? One of the best thing about hardshell bindings is when released the ski gets far more compact. It may be that you could pop the skis onto the top of the bow using something like these suction cup mount ski racks. https://www.seasucker.com/collections/ski-racks/products/ski-rack Another "free" storage area is to raise the rear bench seat up ~4" so things can go under it.

Is there any public parking/access along the waterway that you could park a truck at no campgrounds or similar?

Recommend you heat the oven then turn it off, then put the liner in on a double layer cookie sheet. That way the burner won't come on while the liner is cooking which may singe it.

If someone secretly moved your settings. Would you rather bindings 1/4" off or fin .010" off. Does it change with which fit setting that .010 is?

Kit is a baby rabbit and is gender neutral. Seems appropriate.

@herseyj https://wileyski.com/wiley-cbo-rear-on-universal-plate/ Honestly what he's using reminds me mostly of show ski swivel binding parts.

I think the shell issue is moisture. The FM shell is made of what I believe to be a Nylon material and the ones I've seen that have failed for lack of a better term "rotted" where water sits beneath the liner and the plastic PE sheet FM useses to cover the base of the shell. I haven't had that issue and have a pair of quattros that I used from 2007/8 to 2015 but I bring my skis up into a garage upside down with the liners removed. The ones I've seen that failed the owners usually took the ski and put it into a case even leaving the liners in the boots. Side note even with how I dry my liners and store my skis watching T-Gas dump water into his mouth out of his liner before his set... BARF.

Its just whatever Cole is using as a rear binding overlay, his just looks like some EVA or rubber sheet punched out. Note the torn out eyelets that has all the hallmarks of cobble it together with what you have when you have it. Howleys is more what can I assemble with a cordless drill angle iron and stuff I buy from the hardware store wherever I happen to be today. Note all of this boot mounting plates are just hacksawed off aluminum L bolted through with nuts on the outside. https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci7kPHrODFv/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

@Luzz rides one. I find the FM shell to be the most comfortable but that's because of my bunion the reflex shells my liner packs out and then ouch.

@MichaelWiebe and correct me if I'm wrong but isnt this the first 41 on a Radar?

How do the clamp bolts on your current fin box hold up? Probably the same as that. Potentially the adjustment knobs will hold up better because I don't see provisions to lock the knobs themselves from moving regularly but those torqued down clamp bolts soaked in salt water will do the exact same thing.

@SportSki I would. Just get a Wileys and call it done if you're adventurous buy a couple overlays at the same time and keep them in a drawer out of the sunlight for a lifetime supply.

Its where you wonder does it make more sense to have the thing sit level constantly with some sort of gimbal mount or to correct prior to the shot. I would think due to the way this is mounted in the sightline that you really don't want it to be bulky so you would probably want to use some sort of linear actuator to position the shot as opposed to having a large mechanism but then again if you redesign it to work off a bimini or a tower you'd reduce some of the constraints. Also from my life I think I'd rather have a unit mounted into a Bimini than on my window no offense to the design but I really don't think having that on my boat is going to fly when we pass the sheriff but that could easily be tucked up into the bimini frame.