BraceMaker

Thats always a good question Connelly made a ton of these skis

Quite the shock tube too

He lose his dewalt?

Make sure to wet your RTP and foot and see how far you can work it up. After mine broke in my toe was banging. I spent time modifying but it stretched a bit and my foot moved up.

Long and shallow are relative to short and deep. The idea would be to its extremes: Because the rear of the fin is roughly straight vertical if you bring the rear of the fin up and down and leave the front of the fin the same you change the depth and not the length. Where as if you move the front of the fin up it disappears into the bottom of the ski and the length of the fin drops. Overall the long and shallow and short and deep fins are roughly similar exposed amounts of fin but where the fin is and how it acts upon the ski are different. between the two like long and deep or short and shallow would be fins that are too much or too little fin respectively to do the job.

Its in your link its a only the 63" ski that becomes a 65" and you go from a 63" with versa-tail to a 65" VT tailed ski unclear why its listed that way I suspect engineering wise they concluded that if you're heavy enough to need a 67" ski you are too heavy to put that pressure into the system as it was designed.

Yes its just one star washer if needed usually a middle hole with a flat headed screw.

The plate just needs to not slide. Tons of ways to do it properly tightened it won't but screws can loosen slightly and you don't want after 5 crap sets to realize your boot slid. Tons of work around even putting a bit of that stair grip tape on the ski under the binding in the middle of the plate so the plate is bowed slightly and stuck works. Star washer works stainless cup washers too. I just had to have no slip when I used FM because a plate moving changed the release setting which was not good.

Microjust is sweet before I had it though I just ran a single star washer on one of the screws under the finish washer. Bit into the plate hard enough to lock it down.

Is the boot as far forwards as the measurement says it should be?

@Mastercrafter no one test it yet? I'd probably leave it. If you can get a few long augers run them into the bottom and cable your lift and dock down to them. This is for 2 things one is so small amounts of ice don't move it around, I don't think yours will be damaged but it might be moved around annoying amounts. The other thing is in summer if you do happen to get a big wind lifts sometimes can flip if the boat isn't on them if they have canopies so we used to always recommend people buy the tie down kits with their lifts. Made life better for everyone, trying to get a lift flipped back upright in a storm with a boat that's dragging an anchor slowly down the lake isn't a good feeling.

Think of it less as a how to and more of a coffee book for ski schools, boat dealerships, and the ski lake. Is there a different book you'd buy to put there? Fin Whispering? 60 bucks.

Purple loctite works really well also. If you have insets and are sick of snugging screws every few sets back the screws out one at a time once your ski is set and put a drop under the head of the screw and then snug it up. Purple is low strength and will seal the threads from water intrusion.

My brother's did well, ecoboost is the only thing you sort of need to keep them on the turbo for efficiency. Pulled alot better than the Tacoma.

@VONMAN it persists. That and the "put the binding all the way forwards so your ski doesn't bounce off the wake"

It's usually called the steam pipe. With out it the heads can basically boil off some fluid and then that vapor expands and blows the antifreeze out

That said I know of a few people who swapped in 2 bolt engines and didn't do anything but flush the antifreeze and swap over the manifolds

@jpwhit if its poly rope it does float up a bit. you could try sneaking about a foot of lead free solder into the braid by pushing the rope together then slipping it in like using a Fid to splice.

Consider a winch? They all have remotes now, with a plain trailer mover in the tongue and a 2" receiver bolted to the back wall of your garage you can use the winch for all sorts of other tasks which you cannot say to a trailer mover. I would imagine you can back up to the trailer in the garage and pull it out but the backing it in is a problem?

Don't need help spending your money! I use a shell mounted on a MOB plate, but I spiral fractured a femur not coming out of a rubber boot so I really wanted something that wouldn't let that happen again. Once bit twice shy I think is the best way to put that. One in one out ski in the water body spinning. Also had a high ankle sprain using a dual hardshell system stuffed a ball and had to take the cuff off the shell. The cuff (and my ankle) got stuffed forwards hard enough that the cuff got jammed over the lower shell, and that was on a releasing system. So I went to the MOB and moved my shell over and that's been excellent. I also have a bum joint in my big toe from a hockey puck I have my wife on a Wiley rubber boot and I used those for a bit as well they just hurt the toe and cramp my foot too much.

You can use an Xmax or other rubber front it's about fit. The Xmax isn't a performance binding if you set the laces so you can get the boot on by wetting it and wetting your foot and push it on you'll come out but as you exceed that level of performance or if you just want a tighter fit then you need to move up to a different boot.

I wonder if it has a bit to do with a relative ratio of height to boot spread that being if you have a women's 7 shoe and are fairly short vs a men's 11 shoe and are pretty tall. her rear binding looks pretty tucked up to the front one but there on the ski in the gate glide makes it appear that her back foot is really far back. Lots of daylight between her knees. If you were left foot forwards twisting the hips outwards would be the opposite effect. Maybe advantage RFF?

@MISkier Carriage bolt washers, they're like prong nut washers with a square hole to secure the carriage bolt. Overdrill the through hole for the bolts and use something like a dremel or a flap disc in an angle grinder and carve a shallow channel from the through hole to the side of the bunk for drainage this helps water get out of there and prevents the wood soaking around the hardware so the wood won't rot. Also the wood swells around the hardware and makes it split. Skip nyloc nuts and just use plain nuts and washers with some locktite this seals the threads and will come off easier. You may occasionally lose a couple of nuts so just keep a few spares around but this is far better than trying to remove nylocs at some point in the future.

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What's a week at bennetts?